CERES F3F from Soaring USA - RC Groups
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Oct 03, 2007, 12:48 PM
Detail Freak
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CERES F3F from Soaring USA

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CERES F3F from Soaring USA

Well, I just had to have one....
After exchanging emails with the designer of the the wing profile, Dirk Pflug, I knew the plane would be fast. And the distributor for Baudis Models is Soaring USA, so I knew I'd get the plane when/as promised.
And, even though the rest of the world seems not to favor the Trinity, it still has my best F3F time of 31.61 seconds at Parker Mountain. The Baudis Trinity has served me well, and is still going strong!
I decided I wanted the latest Baudis plane, the F3F version of the F3B CERES.

You can get yours, and most of the electronics here, at SUSA:


I had to play hooky from work, just to pick up my plane, I had been working offshore so much.
Upon getting the plane, it looked great! It's got an all carbon, very light, black fuselage, and the flying surfaces are white on top, with trim, and black and white on the bottoms.

Here is the breakdown of the component weights:

wing half..705g
stab half....42g
Total....1,820g (64oz)

10 ballast slugs, 130g each, or a total of 46oz of brass ballast!

A discussion thread is HERE:

If you have a comment PLEASE do it there. Thanks.

This plane comes with a complete hardware kit...
The plane also comes with the horns already in ALL the contol surfaces, nothing to mess up on there.

You will need the folowing items to finish the plane:

(4) Futaba S3150 servos (TRY to get the servos with Hitec/JR style plugs; the supplied harness uses this style females)
(2) 3421 JR servos
(1) Receiver
(1) 4 cell battery pack; either CP1300 1/2Sub C cells, or IB1400 1/2 A cells, configured as pictured.
(1) Switch/charge plug
* Solder and soldering pencil
* Heat shrink tubing
* .015 music wire
* Quality epoxy
* Clear tape

Last edited by target; Oct 16, 2007 at 11:26 PM.
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Oct 03, 2007, 09:51 PM
Detail Freak
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I started the actual build process with the wings, or really soldering in the supplied MPX plugs to the wing harness and the fuse leads that go to the RX.

After that was done, Looked at all the parts and pieces to the servo mounts, to see how it really goes together. It's a very interesting setup. A supplied shoulder bolt screws into the servo output shaft. The bolts shoulder holds on the servo arm, just like the regular screw does, but then extends about 1/2" beyond that, and slides though a ball bearing, that presses inor a plywood former.
It's SLICK! See the pictures.
Oct 03, 2007, 10:13 PM
Detail Freak
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After the harnesses are done the ge fed into the wings. I was surprised/happy to see stiffening ribs outboard of the flap bay. There is a small tunnel that the female connector for the aileron will fit through.
Once the harnesses were in the wing, the servos were plugged in and tested. All was good. They were unplugged, and the white shrink tube used to make sure they wouldn't get unintentionally unplugged inside the wing loading ballast. See photo.

Next, the servo arms were shortened per the online build instructions Bob at SUSA sent me.
The aileron uses a super short 6mm arm, the flaps a 9mm arm. Utilizing these sizes allows flush closed covers to be used, and I get plenty of throw. See photo.

Here, I discovered that while they sent me (8) heavy duty 3mm clevises, they accidentally omitted the threaded rods from my hardware bag! Ooops. I could have called Bob or Annette at SUSA, but instead just used 4-40 hardware I had already in stock.

Per the instructions, I clearanced the clevis on the aileron linkage, to clear the boss on the servo arm. I also did the flaps, even though I think it wasn't called for, and probably wasn't necessary.

On trial fitting, I found that the wipers needed to be relieved just a bit to clear the clevis when it is being opened to attach to the horn. 5 minutes for all 4 horns!
Last edited by target; Oct 13, 2007 at 01:07 PM.
Oct 05, 2007, 12:18 PM
Detail Freak
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With the wings all but done, it is time to move on to the fuse and tails.

I had heard from SCSR member Rey Harju that on his CERES, where the v-tail rods are reinforced with some carbon cloth inside the fuselage, there was a bit of blockage. This area is difficult to see into due to the fact that the access hatch is on the bottom of the tail cone, not the end. I couldn't even get a needle file in there, because it wasn't a straight shot.
I needed a bent file, so I made one, sort of. I used a couple peices of 4-40 threaded rods, bent to shape. Clean out took a whopping 5 minutes, it was really easy with the new 'tools'. I test fit the pushrods and tails. All was good. On to the antenna dilemma.

The whole question of what to do about the receiver antenna had me pondering my options. I wanted to try to keep the antenna internal. The online instructions showed a one meter long piece of music wire covered with tubing, bent into a "v" shape, utilized inside the plug-on v-tails.
The only thing I saw wrong with this is that it wasn't really removable and would stick out the same as the tail planes them selves with the tails removed. Not good for long trips/traveling. I wanted something removable, but pretty simple.
I ended up devising my own sinister contraption. I hope that it works and gets me good reception, if not I'll have to ammend this build thread a bit.
See the pics. Basically, I bought a Sullivan #507 cable pushrod kit, and some other tubing, and some .020" music wire, and made my own tail antennas that threaded into the fuse, then slipped into a tube in the tail planes. It should work, and will be removable for travel.
Last edited by target; Oct 21, 2007 at 01:20 AM.
Oct 05, 2007, 02:18 PM
Challenge is rewarding
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Thats really cool Target. My only question is about how well the brass pieces conduct? For my F3b build, I am going to try and reduce the weight of your system, so that I will be adding as little weight to the tail as possible. I am going to glue really thin and light wire into each tail half, and solder them to small gold pins. I think I will use magnet wire, soldered to antenna wire, soldered to a gold pin connector. I will simply plug them in, rather than screwing them in. I also plan to do this in the hinge line so I can inspect and replace them if ever necessary. I plan to remove the tails as little as possible, and only for long trips or airline travel. I am only going to add the antennae in the tails like you did rather than adding a whip out the back.

All in all, I give you an A for ingenuity.
Oct 05, 2007, 02:52 PM
Detail Freak
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Thanks, Dave.
Each antenna/tubing set weighed 2g before gluing in, so that's not too bad.
I also wondered about the conductivity of the set up. The threads are pretty tight, and I think I saw that Pierre Rondel (?) did this with a stinger out the back of a plane... I hope that x2 it should be as good or better.
I'll let you know what I find on range check.

Thanks for the input, T
Last edited by target; Oct 08, 2007 at 09:26 AM.
Oct 05, 2007, 05:28 PM
Detail Freak
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Well I now really only have the gear install in the fuse and balancing left to do.
Since the WHOLE darned fuse is carbon, I figured that having a plain wooden servo tray was sub-standard. And I also wanted to add a switch mounting area. I could have used the stock tray, and added a seperate switch mount.
This time I decided to make enough carbon faced ply to make a FEW more trays. See the pictures, a 9" x 12" sheet made it into the vacuum bag last night.
Then it was a simple matter to layout the new tray same as the old one with the area added in back for the switch to mount to.

Last edited by target; Oct 06, 2007 at 12:10 AM.
Oct 05, 2007, 11:49 PM
Detail Freak
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Looks like it'll be about 83 or 84 oz all up; I only had to add 2-3/4oz or 80g to get the plane to balance at the rearward 112mm mark. The tail cone hatch and wing servo covers are still off, but I can't imagine they'll add much.

I'm stoked!

Oct 06, 2007, 11:23 PM
Detail Freak
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Originally Posted by WOODY1
Looks like alot of building to this baby! I ordered mine and considering my lack of building skills my have gotten in over my head!!!!
Rey is coming today and the both of you can show us what it can do.
Actually, the plane is super-easy to build. I think someone could do it in one long day, or at least in a weekend.

Well, what did ya think?
My impressions were that the plane is very fast in the straights, and turns pretty hard. It goes upwind well.
It also really seems to like being loaded up!
I think my AUW is 85oz, but I can see that I will likely be flying it with at least 1 slug in each wing most of the time.

I still need to make some more tweeks, but I think I'm going to like the CERES!
It's FAST!

Last edited by target; Oct 08, 2007 at 09:29 AM.
Oct 07, 2007, 12:29 PM
Detail Freak
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I barely made the spacers for the CERES in the minutes before heading down to White Point! I had totaly forgotten about them. I only cut 4 small dowels the length of two spacers each. Since each side takes 5 slugs, that only left me with the options of full, 6, or two slugs.
I flew with 6 slugs for the 4 rounds that had wind. Plus I was making other adjustments to the CG, and elevator throws.
The plane certainly feels like it's "on rails"!

Last edited by target; Oct 21, 2007 at 01:24 AM.
Oct 07, 2007, 01:06 PM
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Yes it tracks among the best and Kyle really like the handling.
The minute tweaking is still to come for Rey's plane but it is close now.
Last edited by WOODY1; Oct 07, 2007 at 09:28 PM.
Oct 08, 2007, 01:15 PM
Detail Freak
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It really seems to have the line speed. I haven't turned up the snap-flap at all yet, and it was turning quick enough for me. I'm sure it will turn harder, though!

I'm hoping to crawl off to a hill next weekend and get a bunch of uninterrupted air time on it, that will let me get it where it's good for me. I'm going to have to drink some coffee to get up to this planes' speed!

Oct 12, 2007, 12:03 AM
Detail Freak
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Added fuse gear pics for Woody...

I may switch to a JR 770 Rx; they are smaller and it will fit below the pushrods.

Oct 12, 2007, 08:20 PM
Registered User
Thanks Target, very nice and it looks like I can not put the reciever we were talking about in it!
Oct 12, 2007, 09:06 PM
Detail Freak
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Originally Posted by WOODY1
Thanks Target, very nice and it looks like I can not put the reciever we were talking about in it!
Just use a SS8 (SuperSlim 8) then.
Last edited by target; Oct 13, 2007 at 01:12 PM.

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