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Sep 18, 2007, 09:35 PM
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Discussion

Peter Rake Slingshot


Well, I asked Pete for a design that could be used for more sporty flying than his normal scale birds. Actually I asked for a little too much so he came up with two different designs. This one, the Slingshot is for heavy aerobatics and possible 3D stuff. The other one, Muttley's Revenge, is for more mild aerobatics and more sedate manners.

I started on the Muttley and ran into a problem. The fuse ended up having a wall run into it

So, since Pete was also working on the Muttley I decided to work on the Slingshot. This is another departure from the normal Rake design. I did not build on the plans, as you see in the photos. I did look at them, mainly because Pete wrote some directions on there. So, you don't even have to have full size plans for this one. Not as foolproof as a Stevens' or Laser Arts kit, but, not hard either.

So here are the assembly photos.

charlie
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Sep 18, 2007, 09:39 PM
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Note that the fuse is built on the top sheet, a plain sheet of 1/8" balsa. Draw a centerline. Measure from the front using the fuse side for dimensions. Use squares and glue up the center two formers. Then attach fuse sides. Pull tail together and glue. I glued in the nose at this point, but, you'd be better off to fit the firewall. Have to fit it based on the motor you use so the prop is in the proper place.

Wing halves are joined with clamped ply center piece.

charlie
Sep 18, 2007, 09:41 PM
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Well, after a few hours of work, here is the result. Not too bad and it works like it will be a decent flier.

I also have some plastic bits coming. I figured some cheek cowls, a bubble canopy and some wheel pants would dress it up a bit.

Stay tuned.

charlie
Sep 19, 2007, 09:51 AM
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now thats cool
Rick
Sep 19, 2007, 10:03 AM
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Not sure I'd add anything. The lines are nice and clean as is. What's the wing span? This would be a great toss in the car plane I think.

Rick
Sep 19, 2007, 03:43 PM
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Rick,

I will put a canopy on it. I'll fly it with and without the cowl cheeks (and pics of both) so folks can see how it looks. I will also have removable LG since I fly from longish grass a lot, probably flat Al type. Wingspan is 30". Weight should come in around 10oz with the power system I am using. I picked out a BPHobbies A2208-14 outrunner that will go with either a 2s or 3s2100. I also have one of their smaller A2204-19 motors if I want less power (NOT! ).

I hope to have one of our local 3d guys fly it for a bit to let folks know how it does. I don't fly 3D stuff, but, I think it will make a nice aerobatic plane.

charlie
Nov 03, 2007, 06:07 PM
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So, I stalled on this one.

Finally got it in gear and finished it. Basically anyway. Will put some trim on it when I get a chance. Bottom hatch is not on yet. It will cover servo area and also hold the batter in. The battery (2s2100) will go right behind the LG former, just about over the CG. Plane balances well.

Will see if the 2s has enough power for this one. I think it will based on other planes.

Won't be able to fly until next Sun so you guys can wait.

charlie
Nov 03, 2007, 06:10 PM
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Forgot, wingspan is just over 30". Weight is 364gm and wing area is 224 sq in.
Nov 11, 2007, 05:29 PM
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Well, got it flown today and it was GREAT! On 2s it flies like a dream. Plenty of vertical. On low rates it did all the standard kind of stuff and would fly hands off level. Went where it was pointed. On high rates it did almost 3 rolls in a second. Inverted required just a touch of elevator (I usually fly with a bit forward CG).

Even with that it slowed down to a fast walk for landing. Stalls were unremarkable on low rates. Nice 3 point touchdown and about a 3 ft roll.

Even though it looks a bit short coupled it is very smooth in pitch. Very easy to fly smoothly.

I am going to see if a 3s1300 will fit in there and change to a prop with a bit more pitch just to see what happens. Will have to hand it to one of our 3D guys to see if it will do that stuff OK as well.

Great size to throw in the car for lunch break flying.

Sorry, no flying shots as no one there to take them (I am not good enough to take them myself).

charlie
Nov 11, 2007, 07:05 PM
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Charlie,

Nice, plans/kit available?

Fred
Nov 11, 2007, 07:19 PM
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Fred,

I am putting together the kits now. Will probably be full kits as well. Around $40.

charlie
Nov 12, 2007, 03:29 AM
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Charlie,
Now you've done it mate, I suppose that means I'd better get my finger out and finish off Muttley. (and the Moska and the Bristol Scout)
Looks good and a bit of colour trim will make it look even better. Your banded on u/c should make it easy enough to alter the length too. Although I think it looks pretty good as it is.
It certainly sounds to be about what you were looking for mate, a fun little model.

Pete
Nov 12, 2007, 09:01 AM
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Pete,

No hurry mate. I still haven't got the rest of those finished planes up on the web site yet. So, you can keep your building slower Besides, you need to learn how to do inverted hovers with the helo's I still have my Muttley wing hanging from the wall. Will finish it someday, although with this one it may not be soon

The LG is OK, just makes landings a bit tough with all that spring in them. Some who like to simply plop it on a runway may like the longer LG.

The banding is my "trademark" LG method for park fliers. The U shape is tied at the rear and the banding holds it in place. When landing on thick grass the LG will automatically "retract" instead of ending or breaking the firewall. I used it first on Tritle's Very Ugly Stik very successfully. If I have pavement to work with I put on an extra band so it won't collapse on touch and goes.

Seeing how I will be building a GeeBee next year I think the top will get a scalloped treatment so I can 'test' my abilities. The bottom of the wing will get 'bands' of color so I can which way is "up" (probably red and black).

Thanks Pete

charlie
Nov 12, 2007, 09:27 AM
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Looks great, but where/how do you mount hte battery?
Nov 12, 2007, 09:36 AM
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I put the 2s2100 between the fuse former and the servos (right over the CG). It just fits there because of the servos. The rear of the battery is actually on top of the front two servos. I installed a hatch on the bottom made from 1/32ply and hinged. Held on with some rubber bands. Not pretty, but, I wanted to make sure the battery stayed in the plane

I will measure the space and see if I can find a 3s that will fit between the former and the servos.

FWIW, this could have been prevented if I had moved the rudder and elevator servos further back. Prior planning.....

You can also put the battery in the fuse between the firewall the the wing. But, I ended up being really nose heavy with that location (with the 2s2100).

charlie


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