Heng Long Tiger Modifications & Upgrades

HoverBovver · 01:15 PM

First up, the HL Tiger Commander's Cupola is angled incorrectly at about 80 degrees from its correct position.

This is an easy one to fix...

HoverBovver · 03:25 PM

The gun barrel mantlet on the HL Tiger is the wrong way round.

This requires a virtual total strip down to get access to the turret section.

Part 1. Lower hull disassembly...

HoverBovver · , 09:38 AM

Gun barrel mantlet fix.

Part 2. Disassembly of the turret...

HoverBovver · 03:23 PM

Gun barrel mantlet fix.

Now the main course.

Part 3. Engineering a solution...

HoverBovver · 04:55 PM

Replacing the plastic rear idle wheels with metal...

HoverBovver · 04:04 PM

The pistol port at the rear left side of the turret is incorrectly mounted and needs to be rotated 90 degrees anti-clockwise...

cpt.bhern · , 05:30 PM

Thanks for the info. HoverBovver,these are things I am going to do very soon.
I got my HL Tiger 1 about a month ago,and have not done much with it as yet.

HoverBovver · , 05:19 AM

There's more to come...watch this space.
Feel free to add any hints or tips here.

modfly · , 06:24 PM

nice..takes a lot of time for all this..thanks!

HoverBovver · 01:10 PM

This is in two parts...

Part 1. Removing & replacing the suspension...

HoverBovver · 03:54 PM

I'm installing metal wheels modelled round those produced for late model Tigers with no external rubber. On these Tigers the outer most row of wheels was not installed.

Part 2. Installing metal wheels...

HoverBovver · 02:10 AM

This is probably the easiest upgrade...

HoverBovver · 04:01 PM

When you've installed a bunch of heavy metal stuff this is a must upgrade to the HL tiger...

sa80 · , 06:59 PM

hi guys, while surfing the net i came across this site and after seeing hoverbovver,s tiger i had to get one, i mainly do 1/35 scale models, (german armour) but i think things have changed now! looks like i,m into the big boys toys, i know NOTHING about RC tanks and have a few questions they may seem stupid to you but here goes. after looking at the pics i want to remove the LED in the tiger mantlet, if i do this will my tiger still work? and how do i take it out,do i just cut the wires ? is my tiger waterproof ? and is the L shaped strips of aluminium something you made or can you buy them ? i want to repaint my tiger do i have to strip out the insides? ( i would prefer not to ) i dont wanna mess anything up. many thanks, ps i have the 1/16 heng long tiger with smoke and sound!

HoverBovver · 02:49 PM

Yep you can just cut the wires of the LED and everything else will still work.

Nope its not waterproof at all. There are many holes in the lower part of the hull for the suspension and various switches and the battery bay will let in water. You can make it fairly water resistant by moving all the switches, sealing all the holes and either repositioning the electronics or taping polythene around lower boards. Even with those mods I would avoid deep fording.

I use some scrap alu strips I had which I cut to size & drilled but I've seen kits on ebay that include pre-cut aluminium, correctly sized brass spigots. Keep a look out.

You don't have to strip out the electronics to paint your tiger, you just need to ensure that exposed parts that you don't want painted are masked off. However to get the best finish its much easier to handle the separated plastic shells and more-so without having to mask off internal components.

Sep 16, 2007, 08:11 AM #1
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Mini-HowTo Heng Long Tiger Modifications & Upgrades First up, the HL Tiger Commander's Cupola is angled incorrectly at about 80 degrees from its correct position. This is an easy one to fix... Images View all Images in thread Views: 1886 The hinge should be pointing towards the loaders hatch. Views: 1338 The top part of the cupola is a separate moulding. You may see glue at the seam. Use a sharp knife to carefully run around this seam to break the glue. You don't need to go deep. Views: 1226 It should just pop off. This one came off without having to go all the way around with the knife. Views: 1225 Here you can see how the cupola moulding is glued on. Now is a good time to clear any mould flashing from the cupola view ports. Views: 1232 Now rotate it and glue it back into its correct position. Views: 1727 A line drawn through the hinge should intersect the far corner of the loaders hatch.
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Sep 30, 2007 at 01:15 PM.

Sep 16, 2007, 09:05 AM #2
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Gun barrel mantlet fix The gun barrel mantlet on the HL Tiger is the wrong way round. This requires a virtual total strip down to get access to the turret section. Part 1. Lower hull disassembly... Images View all Images in thread Views: 2296 It's good but it's not right. Lets fix it. Views: 2997 There are 3 pesky screws either side underneath the mudguards so we'll have to remove the tracks. I'm using a 1mm micro screwdriver here. Push from the outside in as shown as theres a grippy end to the pin (at the bottom of this image). Views: 2336 It requires considerable pressure to initially push the pin but once it's out a little way you can pull from the other end with a pair of rusty pliars (They don't have to be rusty). Views: 2091 The wheels just pop off very easily. Two rows should give you easier access to the screws. Imagine what it was like fixing a tyre on the final row on the full size Tiger. Views: 1822 Second row, also just pull off quite easily. Views: 2086 Now we can remove those 3 screws. Views: 1816 The last one at the rear holds the back panel to the base. If you leave these in you need to disconnect the hoses on the top panel. I chose to remove these so the back panel stayed with the top of the hull section. Views: 2204 Now remove the 3 longer screws on the base...one at the front and two at the rear. Be careful to keep the removed screws grouped together and in a safe place. There will be many more before we're finished. Views: 1930 Gripping the back panel, slide the back panel and top off of the lower part of the hull. But be careful there are wires leading up to the turret. Views: 3511 Here you can see the internal wiring between the upper part of the hull. This is the non smoke & sound version so theres a lot less in there. Views: 1901 Disconnect the power/servo connector. Views: 2503 Disconnect the antenna and you're done. Hull disassembly complete.
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Sep 16, 2007 at 03:25 PM.

Sep 16, 2007, 09:38 AM #3
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Gun barrel mantlet fix...Part 2 Gun barrel mantlet fix. Part 2. Disassembly of the turret... Images View all Images in thread Views: 2353 The turret is held to the hull by the turret ring gear. Just 3 screws hold that in place. Views: 2024 Once the screws are out the turret will just come away. Views: 2203 Five screws hold the turret together, but before we remove them we need more play in the cable connecting the hull to the mantlet motors and gun. Views: 2278 Go back to the upper hull section and remove the screws that hold the small pcb and socket in place. Views: 1972 Cut the cable tie to free up the wires. Views: 2113 Pull the wires through from the hull. Now the 5 turret screws can be removed. Views: 3451 The inner workings of the turret. There are wires to the separate gun section and to the mantlet motor which is attached to the upper part of the turret at the rear (the white gear indicates its location in the picture).

Sep 16, 2007, 10:54 AM #4
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Gun barrel mantlet fix...Part 3 Gun barrel mantlet fix. Now the main course. Part 3. Engineering a solution... Images View all Images in thread Views: 2556 The gun barrel mantlet is made up of three pieces. The barrel holder, the barrel holder back panel and a larger moulding that connects these two sections to the airsoft gun. Views: 2236 First remove the two screws that hold the barrel holder & back panel to the gun connector moulding. Views: 2403 The front part of the mantlet and barrel will come away straight away but the barrel holder back panel is held in place by the red LED. This is hot glued to a bb pellet to stop it being pulled through the hole. Best just to cut the LED wires. Views: 2153 Once the LED is out the mantlet and mantlet back panel can be re-united. Now its time for surgey. Using a rotary tool I sanded the three protrustions flat. Views: 1898 Nice and flush. Views: 2127 Remove the two scews that hold the gun connector moulding to the gun and remove it from the gun. Here you can see why we can't just flip the whole mantlet and gun connector moulding over....the gun is offset. Views: 1760 Using the rotated mantlet back panel as a template drill new screw holes through the gun connector moulding. Views: 1868 Don't worry about the proximity of the original holes. The screws have large flat washer heads. Views: 1756 New screw holes in the gun connector moulding. Views: 1782 Reconnect the front mantlet using the new screw holes temporarily. Views: 1692 Turn the mantlet over and from the front carefully drill through the LED hole to make a new hole for the LED wiring in the gun connector moulding. Views: 1813 Remove the screws, insert the LED into the front of the mantlet, push the wires through the new hole in the gun connector moulding, bring the three parts together again and replace the screws. Views: 2461 Re-attach the mantlet to the gun and resolder the LED. Add a bit of heat shrink or insulating tape to one of the wires. Views: 2367 This is a pre-mod photo but it helps to show how to slot the gun into its see-saw holder. Ensure that the rear of the gun is correctly slotted into the white gear at the rear of the turret and that the middle spring is correctly located. Views: 2753 Now you can start working backwards through the instructions to rebuild your Tiger. When complete it should finally look like this.
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Sep 16, 2007 at 03:23 PM.

Sep 16, 2007, 04:32 PM #5
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Upgrading to metal rear idle wheels Replacing the plastic rear idle wheels with metal... Images View all Images in thread Views: 1981 Follow the intructions in the previous how-to guide for disassembly of the hull and removal of the tracks. Views: 2722 The rear idle wheel is held in place by an axle which is just pushed tightly into a hole in the hull. I used a g-clamp to push it out with a screwdriver bit slightly smaller than the axle diameter. Views: 2349 The idle wheel is in two parts. There is plenty of room between the two parts for the axle to be pushed out a little way. Views: 2714 It only needs to be pushed out a few mm's before you can pull it out from the other end by hand. Here I've removed the front part of the idle wheel so I can re-use the axles. Views: 2051 The idle wheels can be easily sliced apart if required by slicing around the seam with a sharp but rusty knife (It doesn't have to be rusty!). Views: 1993 Popped apart. Views: 2145 With the old wheel removed we can install the metal idle wheel. Push the axle through the rear part of the idle wheel and into the hole in the hull. It should push in relatively easily. Don't push it in all the way as it will jam the wheel. Views: 2144 Add a bit of CA and firmly push on the front part of the new metal idle wheel. Rebuild the hull and re-install the tracks and you're done!
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Sep 16, 2007 at 04:55 PM.

Heng Long Tiger Modifications & Upgrades

Images

Gun barrel mantlet fix

Images

Gun barrel mantlet fix...Part 2

Images

Gun barrel mantlet fix...Part 3

Images

Upgrading to metal rear idle wheels

Images

Pistol port fix.

Images

Metal suspension arm + Metal wheel upgrade...Part 1

Images

Metal suspension arm + Metal wheel upgrade...Part 2

Images

Metal drive wheel & gearbox upgrade.

Images

Suspension spigot mod.

Images

Channels

About RCG

Features

Tools

Media

Topics

Sep 22, 2007, 04:19 PM #6
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Pistol port fix. The pistol port at the rear left side of the turret is incorrectly mounted and needs to be rotated 90 degrees anti-clockwise... Images View all Images in thread Views: 1528 Pistol port. Views: 1375 There are two lugs top and bottom that need to be sliced through. Carefully slide a knife under the moulding to attack the top lug. Views: 1417 Top lug done, here I'm slicing through the bottom lug. Views: 1386 Top down view. Views: 1478 Moulding removed showing the lugs more clearly. Views: 1782 Looking inside the turret, the lugs go right through (on the left here of the gun elevation motor). So an alternative method is to cut, drill or lever these out from the inside. Views: 1320 The pistol port is curved to follow the lines of the turret. It needs to be reshaped to fit properly when rotated 90 degrees. Views: 1398 Some use filler but I decided to reshape it by sanding. Views: 1334 Somewhat slimmer but should look fine. Views: 1348 Rotated & glued. Views: 1406 Complete.
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Sep 26, 2007 at 04:04 PM.

Sep 23, 2007, 05:30 PM #7
cpt.bhern
cpt.bhern Registered User	Thanks for the info. HoverBovver,these are things I am going to do very soon. I got my HL Tiger 1 about a month ago,and have not done much with it as yet.

Sep 24, 2007, 05:19 AM #8
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	There's more to come...watch this space. Feel free to add any hints or tips here.

Sep 25, 2007, 06:24 PM #9
modfly
modfly Doing it in the Lateral Axis	nice..takes a lot of time for all this..thanks!

Sep 30, 2007, 11:24 AM #10
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Metal suspension arm + Metal wheel upgrade...Part 1 This is in two parts... Part 1. Removing & replacing the suspension... Images View all Images in thread Views: 2097 Pull off the outer wheels as described in previous sections. The last row requires levering the axle out with a micro screwdriver between the wheel and suspension arm as indicated by the arrow. Views: 1858 Once the axle is out a little way, grip the top with cutters followed by pliers to keep pushing the wheel down so that the screwdriver can continue to lever against the wheel and push the axle out. Views: 1908 Tricky bit over, remove the central suspension arm screw. Views: 1768 The spring is revealed. Views: 1976 The replacement suspension arms are moulded to fit a specific side. Here I'm working on the port side so I require the suspension arm with the spring groove pointing upwards pictured here on the left. Views: 1667 Drop each arm into place ensuring the spring slots into the groove in the suspension arm and replace the screw. Views: 1880 Complete. The springs force the arms to point the wrong direction. They will need to be rotated 180 degrees to slot in the wheels.
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Sep 30, 2007 at 01:10 PM.

Sep 30, 2007, 12:50 PM #11
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Metal suspension arm + Metal wheel upgrade...Part 2 I'm installing metal wheels modelled round those produced for late model Tigers with no external rubber. On these Tigers the outer most row of wheels was not installed. Part 2. Installing metal wheels... Images View all Images in thread Views: 1949 1 set of middle and outer row metal wheels. They have a thick coat of grey paint so they appear to be plastic but are actually made out of metal. Views: 1610 The thicker middle row has an axle cap which needs to be removed. This should pop off with micro screwdriver leverage. Views: 2007 Late model Tigers did not use the outer most row of wheels so these will be discarded. Views: 1547 Remove the wheels and rear idle wheel as described in the previous sections and extract the axle from the wheel. Now lightly sand the axles grooves to ease installation. Views: 1630 Test the sanded axle for fit on a spare suspension arm. It should push in easily. We'll secure it later. Views: 1577 Some metal wheel sets require the original plastic wheel for the first row. Start from the first suspension arm next to the rear idle wheel, rotate the arm 180 to line up with the appropriate suspension slot. The axle should just push in. Views: 1563 Fit a plastic wheel every other suspension arm working from the rear to the front ensuring that the next suspension arm is not jammed in the wrong position. Views: 1739 The middle row can now be installed on each suspension arm in-between. The sanded axles makes this easy, otherwise we'd have to whack it with a mallet. The idler can go back on now too. Views: 1630 Inner and middle row complete. Views: 1591 Now secure the axle by adding a drop of blue loctite (or CA for a more permanent fitting) into the hole in the suspension arm. Its more precise to let it run along a needle into the hole. Views: 1514 Secure the axle cover on the middle row wheels if required. Views: 1492 3rd row...Install the thinner outer most metal wheels. These are a tight fit. Installation can be made easier by sanding the plastic of the inner wheel. Views: 1926 Complete. Notice that the outer wheels no longer overlap the drive wheel. Views: 2265 The is the full metal version. Note that with this set the middle wheels come in two parts and also have no loose axle cap. They're also slightly bigger. Views: 2273 Full metal set installed. They arrived in desert camo colours so I set to them with a can of paint stripper. The bare metal look suits the panzer grey paint IMO.
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Oct 14, 2007 at 03:54 PM.

Oct 08, 2007, 04:01 PM #12
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Metal drive wheel & gearbox upgrade. This is probably the easiest upgrade... Images View all Images in thread Views: 1412 First off, remove the hub caps of the main drive wheels. You need a sharp tool or micro screwdriver to jam under it. Views: 1490 Removal of the cap reveals an allen bolt. Views: 1563 My replacement metal gear set came with the right size allen key. Views: 1547 With the bolt removed the wheel comes right off. Views: 1653 Now you can remove the 3 screws which hold in the gearboxes. Views: 1455 The second screw. Views: 1491 The third screw is right at the back of the gearbox. Views: 1552 With the screws removed the gearbox with the high motor obviously should be removed first. Views: 1526 Second gearbox removed. I'm not going to de-solder the connections just yet. Views: 1676 New metal gearbox in place. The side with the low motor goes in first. Views: 1850 Both motors in and secured. I de-soldered the old wires and soldered in the new ones one at a time at this point, which meant that I was less likely to screw up and wire it incorrectly. Views: 1474 The metal drive wheels come in two halves and is shaped so that it fits onto the spindle axle. Views: 1418 The front half of the wheel can be fitted ensuring the notches are slotted into the holes. Views: 1408 Screw in the allen bolt, replace the cap and your done.
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Oct 10, 2007 at 02:10 AM.

Oct 12, 2007, 05:02 PM #13
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Suspension spigot mod. When you've installed a bunch of heavy metal stuff this is a must upgrade to the HL tiger... Images View all Images in thread Views: 1621 Evil spigots drilled out....or at least those that haven't already broken off. Views: 1689 Most people are installing an L shaped strip of aluminium to give the body extra strength. I'm just using a flat strip that I had spare and cut to size. Its just thin enough to slide between the gearbox and sidewall. Views: 2239 Alu strip epoxied in against the suspension indentation on both sides. Views: 1655 We'll need to drill a hole for the main suspension holding screw. I'll be using a 2 cm long M3 screw & bolt. The type used extensively in PC's. You'll also need to drill a small hole for the spring in each suspension position. Views: 1651 The suspension position by the drive wheel will need to be drilled through the gearbox. Views: 1693 The rx board will need to be re-positioned. For now I'll just remove the 2 holding screws and keep it out of the way. Views: 1734 The replacement spigot. I'm using a brass connector out of a 3amp chocablock. Views: 1640 The brass spigot source. Views: 1702 Just happen to be almost perfect diameter & height. Views: 1832 The spigots from the chocablock are 'U' shaped. Here I'm just very lightly grinding off the sharp edges at the top of the 'U' so that it will rotate freely within the suspension bar. Views: 1949 A perfect fit for an M3 screw. Views: 2299 Screw fits spigot and spigot tested to ensure that it does indeed rotate freely in the suspension bar. Views: 1863 Suspension fitted. M3 screw is held with nut on the inside against the aluminium strip. Suspension bar should freely rotate with no movement of the screw. Views: 1917 A close up of the screw through the gearbox with attached nut. Views: 2706 Inside view of completed mod showing the nut & screw at each suspension position. I haven't re-fitted the rx board yet but I understand that flipping it over can help with cooling. Views: 1783 Before installing the wheels I reduced the length of the axle to ensure that it doesn't interfere with the aluminium strip which half covers the axle slot. Views: 2022 All wheels installed. This is the full metal set stripped of its desert camo paint. The flash photo brings out some residual yellow colouring but in reality its not noticeable. Views: 2308 All metal running gear. Phew!! job done. Views: 2837 The metal tracks came with 98 links which is way to saggy. The original plastic HL tracks have 96. I went for 97 on both sides.
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Oct 14, 2007 at 04:01 PM.

Oct 14, 2007, 06:59 PM #14
sa80
sa80 Registered User	hi guys, while surfing the net i came across this site and after seeing hoverbovver,s tiger i had to get one, i mainly do 1/35 scale models, (german armour) but i think things have changed now! looks like i,m into the big boys toys, i know NOTHING about RC tanks and have a few questions they may seem stupid to you but here goes. after looking at the pics i want to remove the LED in the tiger mantlet, if i do this will my tiger still work? and how do i take it out,do i just cut the wires ? is my tiger waterproof ? and is the L shaped strips of aluminium something you made or can you buy them ? i want to repaint my tiger do i have to strip out the insides? ( i would prefer not to ) i dont wanna mess anything up. many thanks, ps i have the 1/16 heng long tiger with smoke and sound!

Oct 15, 2007, 07:32 AM #15
HoverBovver
HoverBovver Scarecow	Yep you can just cut the wires of the LED and everything else will still work. Nope its not waterproof at all. There are many holes in the lower part of the hull for the suspension and various switches and the battery bay will let in water. You can make it fairly water resistant by moving all the switches, sealing all the holes and either repositioning the electronics or taping polythene around lower boards. Even with those mods I would avoid deep fording. I use some scrap alu strips I had which I cut to size & drilled but I've seen kits on ebay that include pre-cut aluminium, correctly sized brass spigots. Keep a look out. You don't have to strip out the electronics to paint your tiger, you just need to ensure that exposed parts that you don't want painted are masked off. However to get the best finish its much easier to handle the separated plastic shells and more-so without having to mask off internal components.
	Last edited by HoverBovver; Nov 01, 2007 at 02:49 PM.

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