Windrider Fox - Page 49 - RC Groups
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Apr 28, 2008, 12:32 AM
Registered User
phew, just went thru the whole thread.
some questions...

2 types of builds
- stock (15-18oz):
- beefy (30oz) - Daemon's post 520

so now to consider what mods to take in.
looking for something light/moderate (7-18mph) relatively strong lift conditions with poor, rocky to no landing zones. not ds'ing (yet)

i have the full span spar whihc comes about 2inches short of tips
plan on standard servos for elev, 45hb for ailerons which will be installed bottom and channeled to topside linkage, and some dorky blue bird servo i have for the rudder

1. carbon ribbon drag spars vs balsa control surfaces? for both aileron AND elevator? the rudder actually feels kinda beefy already to me(?) would the ribbon for both sides, wing and EPP control surfaces suffice vs replace with balsa? wingside ribbon is nice for beefing up tips.
2. how much does the longeron help wiht landing mishaps?
3. treatment of LE/nose - I'm thinking thinned goop with clear duct tape. or is the new stuff that good? or self adhesive laminate film?
4. incidence - Ming, has this been retooled or is it still an issue?
5. extending ailerons? - anyone done this? I like using camber/reflex for those slermal/turbulent days.
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Apr 28, 2008, 07:35 AM
Closed Account
if you install the wheel . reinforce it with something ....otherwise its going to be removed by some low lying hard object it comes in contact with

Apr 28, 2008, 09:21 AM
Woodstock 1's Avatar
Originally Posted by flybaby2000
if you install the wheel . reinforce it with something ....otherwise its going to be removed by some low lying hard object it comes in contact with

Planet Earth, perhaps?
Apr 28, 2008, 01:13 PM
__Jackass Savant__
theBOZman's Avatar
Poor to no LZ calls out for "new stuff". The wings are super thin and un-sparred at the tips. I think a ribbon spar as a drag spar spanning the alierons all the way to the tip can't be skipped as a mod. And the new stuff would just make it better.

I have a new stuff bee that seems to be on the light side, so don't think of the covering as a weight penalty. Think of it as life insurance. Once you have felt a new stuff covered wing, I don't think there is ANY question as to if you use it or not in this application. Unless you are landing on a nice road like Ming, than it's not finished without it IMHO. That covering is perfect for "fixing" this plane up right.

Plus, the consensus seems to be that a light build is a little too light except for the people that were going for the real light ship regardless. I'd like to hear from those people to see how there plane is holding up.
Last edited by theBOZman; Apr 28, 2008 at 01:18 PM.
Apr 30, 2008, 12:01 PM
The Predator
The Predator's Avatar
wanted your thoughts on the critical mods for a 7-18mph sloper. particularly whihc weight new stuff would you use to just touch up the LE, tips and fuse underbelly? Balisti-cover Heavy is tough and rubbery.any impressions would be sincerely appreciated - you can post right on the thread.

I would basically follow Ian's build EXACTLY. His ship is SWEET and tough but it is just OK on sink rate, great on power so a bit lighter would likely be the only improvement I can think of for you.
I achieved this simply by cutting in the battery into the big nose area forward of the battery bay. Then I stuck my standard elevator servo in where the battery was suposed to go. I balanced at 25ozs just from that and also have a VERY tough ship. Aside from the double centering elevator servo, brand new, and a broken wing servo HS56hb that busted on the first and ONLY decent landing. I'd definitely keep all linkages on top if not use 65MG's or something beefier. I'd definitely use balsa and the CF drag spars both too, if for no other reason, those mods are fairly painless and cheap.
I should have had mine ripping along again right away but, it just KILLS me to cut into this NEW ship to replace the servos. I KNOW it will be a treat when I do though!
Apr 30, 2008, 12:15 PM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
You should get that thing fixed up and bring it to the event. Need some
formation Fox flying. I finally got around to Gooping my horizontal stab
on last night. Hopefully took out some of that decalage so I won't
have so much downtrim to fly level.

Apr 30, 2008, 03:09 PM
The Predator
The Predator's Avatar
I really would but, MAN, am I swamped. Making sure all have sweet ships for the event leaves me with only like 10 new ones for myself, LOL! I will right after this event is over; I'm going on vacation! and we can go to NTM and enjoy them. It'll be sweet!

Maybe we can get you one of those gay little skeeters/ proboscu-ships for you too like I've been playing with. I LOVE mine and have the BIG DADDY 60" one ready to go NOW too for the racing. Not sure why but the big one actually looks like it should fly and fast, unlike the little one that looks bad and flies great! We'll see.
May 01, 2008, 06:05 PM
Not a Doctor
me_wantee's Avatar
May 01, 2008, 06:26 PM
Registered User
Daemon's Avatar
I finally Gooped the horizontal stab on a couple nights ago, and managed
to take some of the negative tail incident angle out so I don't
have to fly with so much down trim. Flew it in rockin, vertical 20-40 mph
winds yesterday evening for a solid hour and a half. I'm sure the Fox is a
fine flyer at stock 16oz in 5-10mph of wind, but at 33oz in big wind
it's simply awesome for a foamie. Was doing 6 second pumps, and never
had a problem penetrating even when caught behind the lip of the hill. I
will say it doesn't seem to like to fly inverted all that much, and I'm pretty
sure I've got the CG back about as far as it can go.
Will do a fantastic flick and flat spin, if you bury the stick in the corner.

For an all rounder, I'd aim for 25 oz. Run a longeron from nose to tail,
add a carbon rod down through the front of the wing mount
(thinnest part of fuse), carbon ribbon sub trailing edge at aileron hinge line,
running out into the tip, and a few inches toward the root. Balsa
ailerons, HS65MG wing servos, any standard on the elevator, maybe
use a stiffer elevator pushrod. Maybe add a second joiner where
shown earlier in the thread. Tape the wing, and cover with anything
you want. Goop the fuse, and cover it any way you want.
That's a build you can do in a night or two.

May 02, 2008, 05:35 PM
Leaning doesn't help
Gluggy's Avatar
well summaried Ian, could not agree more. You have just saved the new buildrs about a days worth of reading through multiple posts. Well done.
May 03, 2008, 01:33 PM
Registered User


I was putting my Fox together and was just wondering if the rudder adds a lot to the performance? I plan to build mine for light lift conditions since that is what we mostly have at our site.

PS. I found that scraping the mold nubs with a singel edge razor and then using a flexible emory stick works very well in taking the nubs off.
May 03, 2008, 02:00 PM
ajroahkni's Avatar

I built mine for light air "bone stock" no covering. I went with the rudder and would recommend that you do the same. You can fly a little better in light stuff with rudder-coordinated turns.

May 03, 2008, 02:23 PM
Registered User
Thanks John,
I'll put a rudder in mine too.
Good flying!
May 04, 2008, 01:54 PM
Lost it again!!!!!
dirtman's Avatar
Has anybody put a motor in the nose yet?

got an 180w outrunner, 1300 3s and a 9x6 folding prop. would add about 7oz.

Do you think I would have a problem getting it to balance without a lot of tail weight?
May 05, 2008, 12:56 PM
__Jackass Savant__
theBOZman's Avatar
You could use the 3s battery to hit the CG. Lots of room for it in there.

I am just starting to seal up mine now. You are welcome to stop by and see how your gear would balance in it, but at the worst you might need an extension to move the battery back.
Last edited by theBOZman; May 05, 2008 at 01:43 PM.

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