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This thread is privately moderated by Chris F, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Nov 21, 2012, 01:46 PM
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The higher C pack can deliver more current but will only deliver what your motor and prop combination will pull. In other words, if you choose a pack with too low a C rating for your system, the pac will suffer. Higher than needed will do no harm to anything but your wallet.
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Nov 21, 2012, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turner2 View Post
The higher C pack can deliver more current but will only deliver what your motor and prop combination will pull. In other words, if you choose a pack with too low a C rating for your system, the pac will suffer. Higher than needed will do no harm to anything but your wallet.
Agreed, I did some more looking into today while getting out of the house and visited a few hobby shops and talked with some decent people who knew plenty to help me understand my battery pack and the needs of the plane and out in the field.

My battery is a basic 15C, so since I am headed out flying for the first time tomorrow with a "AL" buddy box in Vancouver, I wanted to at least have a second battery. With that being said and the basic knowledge of what I may need for higher C type battery, the only thing I might also want to keep in mind is weight and size of the battery pack.

Looks like I will be looking into a higher 30-50 "C" type battery that's comparable to what I am currently running.

Now I can save some $ and grab 2 more online.

Cheers,

Chris
Nov 24, 2012, 10:22 AM
Registered User
A sort of quick way to look at the 15c vs. 30c
De-rate by 25-50% for a realistic current draw.
Is the battery current at 50% of the C rating adequate for
the continuous motor current?
Does the maximum short term motor current draw exceed 75% of the C rating?
That sort of establishes the minimum battery capacity.
Then, it's time to consider flight times.
Five minutes is usually considered close to the minimum desired flight time.
Feb 17, 2013, 01:38 PM
Registered User
Bill9009's Avatar

esc


I have read that its impossible without damaging the esc, receiver or battery.
But is it possible to wire the bec side of the esc in parallel to increase the current supplied to the receiver to run more servos.
I have 2 esc bec and would like to use them to run a motor on the first and use both to supply power to recever.
Feb 17, 2013, 02:04 PM
Proud member of LISF and ESL
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill9009 View Post
I have read that its impossible without damaging the esc, receiver or battery.
But is it possible to wire the bec side of the esc in parallel to increase the current supplied to the receiver to run more servos.I have 2 esc bec and would like to use them to run a motor on the first and use both to supply power to recever.
In parallel with with what? In order to wire in parallel you have to have two of something. What two somethings are you thinking about?
Feb 17, 2013, 04:20 PM
That's a funny word
I think he wants to use 1 esc for the motor , but use a second esc's bec along with the first esc's bec for the servos. That is paralleling two BECs.
Feb 17, 2013, 04:42 PM
(͡ ͜ʖ ͡) ..I.,
phoam's Avatar
Generally speaking, receivers don't like two BECs powering them. It's good practice to eliminate one of the onboard BECs of the ESCs if there are two ESCs in the power system.

If just one of the ESC's BEC can't cope with the servo loads of the application, use a higher-rated standalone BEC (or UBEC), and eliminate both onboard BECs within the ESCs by snipping the red wire just before the receiver connector.
Feb 17, 2013, 05:12 PM
Proud member of LISF and ESL
Quote:
Originally Posted by phoam View Post
Generally speaking, receivers don't like two BECs powering them. It's good practice to eliminate one of the onboard BECs of the ESCs if there are two ESCs in the power system.

If just one of the ESC's BEC can't cope with the servo loads of the application, use a higher-rated standalone BEC (or UBEC), and eliminate both onboard BECs within the ESCs by snipping the red wire just before the receiver connector.
Yep! What he said.
Feb 17, 2013, 10:56 PM
Registered User
Bill9009's Avatar
Thanks, I’m looking to build a p-51 that’s about 12 oz with flaps and retract but my esc works for at most 4 servos under low load, and I like having power to spear, I think the thunderbird 54 may work with 5 micro servos but it will be heavy, but ill also see if i can find time to run out and buy an external bec.
Apr 08, 2013, 05:15 PM
risering
how do I seatup flaps, and do I have to use ele. when all i want to do is slow down or gain extra lift.
Apr 09, 2013, 12:40 AM
<- Balsa flies better ->
wolw's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jim rushing View Post
how do I seatup flaps, and do I have to use ele. when all i want to do is slow down or gain extra lift.
You probably have that mixer already in your Tx. Usually that mixer is mixed with some down elevator due to when using flaps/flaperons (ailerons used as flaps) you gain lift and the nose will rise.

Peter
Apr 09, 2013, 04:37 AM
Proud member of LISF and ESL
Have any of you ever used the ESC to change the timing of the motor?

I have never explored this feature and was wondering about the experience of those who have done this.
Apr 15, 2013, 02:14 AM
Registered User
Andy789's Avatar
Hi Chris F, a really informative and knowldgeable article shared you here about the aeromodelling tips.Any one who is interesteded in aeromodelling can get a lot of knowldge form this post.i really like this type of work on this plateform.

Regards.
Andy.
Jul 06, 2013, 04:19 AM
Registered User
good article,but for beginer ,if you do not know clear about how to upgrade ,you'd better choose RTF or ARF ,the electronics need check carefully before use them,but if you have this skill ,you will save some on this ,at least ,some electronics can share.
Jul 13, 2013, 06:51 PM
Daniel
thanks good job it helps alot


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