6mmFlyRC Profile F-22 with Simple Thrust Vectoring - Page 41 - RC Groups
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Jul 16, 2008, 05:36 PM
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tomhe's Avatar
Originally Posted by C. George

You had asked that I post a photo of my build. Well here you go.
Thanks! Looks great.

Originally Posted by C. George
As I said before, thanks for offering up this design. It is a joy to fly.
You're welcome. I'm glad that you like it.
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Jul 16, 2008, 08:28 PM
uniquexme's Avatar
guys, flew 3 pack yesterday! my parkjet interest is back after i switch to 3D from steve's parkjets!!!! i have move the lipo forward. i wasn't sure if anyone tested, but i bring it up high, throttle off, lay my radio on the floor, (yes, w/o anyone controlling), went to my car, have a drink, chit chat for about 20sec with my buddies, and then sit down, took my radio back, and its still gliding horizontally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it takes estimate about 1-2mins for it come down. can u believe it? i actually try 3times. All the flyers are so amazed with it, the CG is way too good!!! even my 3D plane can't glide for so long.

As i m using 3500kv, 5x3 APC, 40A ESC, 25C 2200mah 11.1v, i m having unlimited vertical climb. It can still go up higher, but i have limited myself to 10sec WOT so that i do not puff the lipo pack. i really want to try it for more than 10sec next time.

m so happy with this F22, thanks tomhe! easy and super fast to build. i would recommend more ppl to build. guys, pls try out the above glide method and let me know if urs can do the same.

the previous 6mmflyrc MIG-29 that i have build wasn't able to do this super long glide.
Jul 16, 2008, 08:44 PM
Registered User
C. George's Avatar

Your battery should be able to sustain 50 amps continuous without a problem if it is a true 25c rating. Your 40 amp ESC should burn up before your battery does. Or is 25C the burst rating?
Jul 16, 2008, 10:02 PM
Registered User
Took my version of the F22 out to the field tonight to fly it. When I got there the wind sock was standing straight out! But, I flew it anyway! What a kick in the pants! The thrust vectoring works! I could point the nose up in the air, let the speed bleed off, then crank the elevator and swap ends in the air on a dime! I can't wait to try it when the wind is not blowing 100mph. I just set mine up for taileron control and was surprised at how maneuverable it was and how much control authority I had. I had it set up with dual rates, about 1" of throw both directions on low rate and 2" (or maybe a little more) on high rates. I only tried high rates for a couple of laps. Will have to experiment with it a little more in lower winds. The wind was blowing so hard I could easily fly backwards and on my last flight made a pretty much vertical landing. The only thing I have to change is to figure out some way to get some airflow over the motor. It is pretty well masked by the motor mount and got pretty hot during the two flights I made. For the conditions, it was a very successful maiden.

Awesome plane! Please sir, may I have another?

Jul 16, 2008, 11:00 PM
uniquexme's Avatar
Originally Posted by C. George

Your battery should be able to sustain 50 amps continuous without a problem if it is a true 25c rating. Your 40 amp ESC should burn up before your battery does. Or is 25C the burst rating?
yup its true 25C kong power lipo. 40A ESC shd be more than enough, it will not burn. the reason i m using 40A ESC is because on all my previous Steve's parkjets, we are all using 30A ESC which is cutting out the power when it gets hot, so we change to 40A, now it remains cool. just like the lipo. if wouldn't burnt out.
Jul 19, 2008, 08:17 AM
Registered User

Maiden and Interference....

Hey folks. I just built my first profile plane and thanks to Tomhe it was a great project. Thanks Tomhe for the plans I can't wait to get to building more of your planes. That is once I get my interference issues worked out. Since this was my first profile plane I did not know exactly how much throttle to give the plane so I just gave it enough till it seemed to want to take off on its own. This probably wasn't enough since it just sort of nosed in gently to the ground. I gathered it up and straigtened up the nose from being slightly bent and gave it another toss with more throttle. This time it took off like a rocket. Unfortunately a little ways out on the climb out it corkscrewed down into the ground. It seemed to me that I did not remember to fasten the battery back to the velcro after the first "accident". So I returned home to fix up a new nose for the plane and went out to try it again. This is where it got interesting to me. I did my usual range test with the Spektrum DX6 system which I have been using for a year now without any problems. All checked out fine. I gave it a launch and the plane took off but was all over the place.....definitely not normal. I managed to get it down safely and then did some testing. When the power is on to the motor the left servo is glitching to full throw either up or down......That is most likely the reason that it corked into the ground rather than a loose battery.

My equipment
Motor: Grayson 2212-06 with 30 amp ESC ( you know the combo)
REceiver: AR6000 for DX6
Battery:Tried two Parkzone 12C 3s 2150 and the Impulse 15c 3s 2200

This seems to be a typical combo for these types of planes and didn't expect to have any issues. My first step was to move the esc and Rx away from each other to the opposite sides of the electronics bay but that didn't help. The servo that is glitching is the one on the side of the motor wires. I tried to separate them as much as possible but the glitching still occurs. My next step is to replace the servo and see it that cures it. Anyways I am trying to work out this interference problem. Can anyone offer up some advice? I can't wait to really get it up in the air.

Jul 19, 2008, 08:29 AM
It should fly at least once
clive45's Avatar
Certainly unusual to get glitching on 2.4.
Don't replace the servo test the system on the bench then swap the servo channels and see if the same servo glitches or the fault swaps servos. This might mean the rx is faulty. I have about the same system except use the AR6100 with no problems whatever, just stick the gear in and fly. Its possible the servo is faulty but swapping them on to the other channel will prove or disprove this.
Hope this helps if you can borrow another rx this will help as well
Jul 19, 2008, 08:39 AM
Registered User
Good Idea. That would save me from cutting the servo out initially. I will give that a try. I have about five of the RXs in other planes and this is the first one giving me problems. I was just like you....throw it in a fly...no worries. That is until now.

Here are some pics of my electronics bay for added insight.

Jul 19, 2008, 11:51 AM
Registered User
C. George's Avatar

Sorry to hear about the electronics issue. Your headed in the right direction to get it worked out.

Very nice build! Maybe it is just too pretty to fly.

If you are willing please post some photos of your fix to the nose. I have seen several folks with the same front end damage and expect to be in the same boat sometime soon. Pix of your repair would help get me ready for it.

Good Luck,

Last edited by C. George; Jul 20, 2008 at 01:20 PM.
Jul 19, 2008, 12:28 PM
Registered User
Thanks CG. I'm sure it will work out.

I am pretty pleased with how the model turned out. It was my first time airbrushing foam. I have a side busines airbrushing RC car bodies and this was much easier. The fix for the nose took about an hour to do including determining what to cut and how to tie it back into the model.

I chose to cut the top fuselage part directly up from where the bottom fuse tab joined it. This allowed me to determine how much new foam to cut and where to tie it into the existing wing and fuse parts. On the bottom I chose to cut a slot into the bottom tray piece where the bottom fuse was tabbed into it. This allowed me to leave the bottom tray in place and just slide the repairs into it. I must say with some epoxy it went back together really tight. I replaced the entire bottom fuse. The intake pieces were cut new and epoxied in place this time. For my original build I used UHU glue to fasten the pieces. Thus the accordian affect where the pieces just crumbled. For the repair I chose to use 5 min epoxy for a more solid bond. I chose not to paint it until I get it back in the air and test it all out. The design of this model lends itself to some really easy repairs if things go awry.

Let me know if you have need any more info. The pics should help you out.

Jul 19, 2008, 06:19 PM
Retired CAD guy
birdofplay's Avatar
I've used some FG rod filleted into the intersection on the bottom on one side or the other.

It kinda stops the accordion thang ! :>}}}

Or you could do this ... https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/atta...mentid=1924078

Thats my Mig-29 with a new solid Pinko Nose.
Jul 20, 2008, 01:34 PM
Registered User
C. George's Avatar

Thanks for taking the time to post your repairs. Looks excellent! Hope to never have to do that for mine but I am sure I will at some point.

Having any luck with the electronics issues?


What affect did putting the pink nose on that bird have on performance other than beefing it up?

Would you ever just carve a whole plane out of that stuff? I know it is heavy but it might work.
Last edited by C. George; Jul 20, 2008 at 01:40 PM.
Jul 20, 2008, 01:52 PM
Retired CAD guy
birdofplay's Avatar
Here are a couple of attempts to CARVE foam wings with a 3 axis CNC machine.


The NOSE was quick and easy a Hand sand job after initial bandsaw of the outlines
Top and Side views.

Re performance ... ???
I like it MUCH better now but I simultaneously changed some other things.
SO it's anybody's guess at which one had the major effect.

It's SUPER for BORING HOLES in the SKY !

I dunno but that pink nose just makes it Look BAAAD coming outa the blue and sceaming past wide open :-)))
Plus it's a little more visible too.
Jul 20, 2008, 02:49 PM
Registered User
I did have some luck in eliminating the glitching. I swithched the servo channels on the receiver and the same servo was glitching. I thought that it may be too much noise from the esc so I changed that one out for the one in my Easy Star. It was the same kind as the original one in the F22 (the grayson 30 amp) I also changed out the RX for the one in the easy star. This change made the glitching go away. So now it is time to maiden the F22 once the rain stops here in PA.

The only problem is that I installed the swapped out original F22 RX and original F22 esc in the easy star to fire it up and test it in that plane and the esc was just doing beeps without turning on the motor. I also started to smell the scent of the esc burning up. This is the second esc that I have burnt up on this project. I have tried a new soldering technique that may be causing cold joints in the esc connectors. I was running the solder off of my iron's tip rather than melting it in the cup by heating up the outside. This may be my problem causing the esc to not work properly. I am pretty confused right now as to what is the problem. I have another esc to solder on new connectors to replace the one I swapped out on the easy star. Lets hope that one doesnt burn up too.
Jul 21, 2008, 11:49 AM
Registered User
C. George's Avatar

Glad to hear you may have whupped the electronics issue. I put a couple more batteries through my plane over the weekend and had a great time doing it. This thing floats along doing all kinds of wild stuff and then gets to it when you hit the throttle.

Good luck with the re-maiden!

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