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Nov 29, 2011, 07:19 PM
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Dennis Everett's Avatar
Spar is in and the gorilla glue is dry , very light weight way to glue spar in , only adds 1 gram , smooth molded like finish ....
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Nov 29, 2011, 09:09 PM
Foam abuser!
crxmanpat's Avatar
Looking good Dennis!

Pat
Nov 29, 2011, 10:03 PM
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alpea 41's Avatar
Gorilla Glue is under rated. Once you learn to keep the foaming action under control with tape or trim off the foam that seeps out of the joint with a sharp blade, it's the BOMB. And the white one dries in about 20 min.
Nov 30, 2011, 12:18 AM
Registered User
alpea,

Is this the white GG that you are talking about or is it something else?

http://www.supremecare.com.my/store/...product_id=120

I don't see anything else on this site that qualifies as white...

http://www.supremecare.com.my/store/...ice&order=DESC

Possibly they are not carrying it...

Thanks for your help.

chewy
Nov 30, 2011, 04:16 AM
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alpea 41's Avatar
No Chewy it's eurathane. Comes in the brown original which is the 2 oz. bottle in your link and a container of white which looks clear till it dries. for about $6. here in USA. The smallest container with Gorilla Glue label is C A ... IT IS NOT FOAM SAFE! The 2 oz container is the one
Last edited by alpea 41; Nov 30, 2011 at 04:22 AM.
Nov 30, 2011, 08:12 AM
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Thanks for the info

chewy
Nov 30, 2011, 11:33 AM
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Dennis Everett's Avatar
Pat , do you sell this kit ?
Nov 30, 2011, 12:06 PM
Have Fun! Land, Sea or Air
jetcaptain's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpea 41
Gorilla Glue is under rated. Once you learn to keep the foaming action under control with tape or trim off the foam that seeps out of the joint with a sharp blade, it's the BOMB. And the white one dries in about 20 min.
Does it sand well? Or do you have to scrape it flush with the surface? I like the idea of using cheaper glue. Epoxy is expensive!
Nov 30, 2011, 01:04 PM
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Dennis Everett's Avatar
No sanding or scraping needed for the meathod i use like the above wing , if your interested , first i route the slot for the spar ,clean any imperfections from foam , spray water in slot , leave for a few minutes , pour out any standing water , brush brown gorilla glue in slot , insert spar into slot , let foam up for about 10 minutes , wipe off foamed up glue( make sure spar is still all the way down in slot , foaming might lift spar up ) cover slot with wax paper full length of spar about 2 in wide , cover that with depron same size as wax paper , put weights on 2 in wide depron full length , let dry about 1/2 hour , remove weights , depron and wax paper , if done correctly you will have a perfect finish , if you have some voids , you can repeat process to fill ..... Dennis
Nov 30, 2011, 04:06 PM
Foam abuser!
crxmanpat's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Everett
Pat , do you sell this kit ?
No, only my smaller version.

This, and may other great flying kits, can be purchased from www.6mmflyrc.com.

These guys are down the street from me. Next time I come to LA I can pick some up for you guys and bring them with me.

The top sellers are: F-22, Saab Draken (same as the one I had last Friday), F-18 and F-15.

They also sell all the large versions of the Pocket Jets I now sell. Jesse has the small F-18, I'm sure you've seen it.

Pat
Nov 30, 2011, 04:09 PM
Foam abuser!
crxmanpat's Avatar
Here's the glues I use for this type of build:

Wing spar - 5-minute expoy

Motor mount, servos, control horns - Hot Glue (perfect for the motor mount as it stays flexible somewhat, whereas most other glues are hard and can get brittle with the motor vibrations)

All other construction - Beacon 3-in-1 Advanced Craft Glue (can be found at Michael's, Jo-Ann's, Hobby Lobby, etc)

Pat
Nov 30, 2011, 04:12 PM
Have Fun! Land, Sea or Air
jetcaptain's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Everett
No sanding or scraping needed for the meathod i use like the above wing , if your interested , first i route the slot for the spar ,clean any imperfections from foam , spray water in slot , leave for a few minutes , pour out any standing water , brush brown gorilla glue in slot , insert spar into slot , let foam up for about 10 minutes , wipe off foamed up glue( make sure spar is still all the way down in slot , foaming might lift spar up ) cover slot with wax paper full length of spar about 2 in wide , cover that with depron same size as wax paper , put weights on 2 in wide depron full length , let dry about 1/2 hour , remove weights , depron and wax paper , if done correctly you will have a perfect finish , if you have some voids , you can repeat process to fill ..... Dennis
Thanks! I'll give it a try.
Nov 30, 2011, 05:21 PM
Registered User

F22


Last flight, but i don't like how to roll, it's too slow, next build with ailerons !!

F22 - DEP1 (6 min 19 sec)
Dec 02, 2011, 05:00 PM
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alpea 41's Avatar
Mine rolls slow only when the throttle is low ,above 1/2 throttle roll rate is fine. One trick that works with the simple thrust vectoring design is blip the throttle to high when you want to increase control rate. This technique works on all the profile parkjets I've built.
I've noticed when flying the Tomhe F-22 I've missed not having yaw ( rudder) control so I'm adding them to my plane. I think they will be used more than coupled ailerons to tailerons. I find myself trying to fly rudder stick now so I guess I need rudders. One more Hxt 900 servo won't add much weight.
Dec 02, 2011, 08:15 PM
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alpea 41's Avatar
Got the port side rudder finished. I'll let you know if it was worth the little trouble to mod it


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