New CMP Cessna 182 50 Size Maiden Flight !!! - Page 38 - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Oct 01, 2012, 12:23 PM
Caravan driver
wingnutzster's Avatar
...and for those of you less concerned with the airframe here's what'll make her go:

Turnigy 5055-C400
Lightmax 5500 6s 40c /or 2x 3300 3s Turnigy Nano-tec's - much lighter and awesome packs!
80A Mystery ESC with 5A UBEC
Hitec HS-425BB in fuz and mini's in wing
13x8 3 blade prop
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Oct 01, 2012, 12:29 PM
Caravan driver
wingnutzster's Avatar
Here it is...split the Brown with a bit of classic 'mustard' yellow and that is exactly what I am going to do.
Love the classic wheel spats and leading edge boot or boot look.
Yeah unless something better comes along ( send me your pics uif you have a classic Skylane) this is my new color scheme and finish:
Oct 05, 2012, 09:46 AM
BE77 Pilot's Avatar
I am late to the party here Sam but beautiful plane!
Nov 27, 2012, 04:05 AM
Registered User
Tarolog's Avatar

N 4723 p

Hi guys. Who can find a picture of Cessna 182 with tail number N 4723 P?
Nov 27, 2012, 04:19 AM
M0unt@in M0del$ minion
turbojoe's Avatar
Google is your friend. Typed in the number and up it popped. LINK

Nov 27, 2012, 04:21 PM
M0unt@in M0del$ minion
turbojoe's Avatar
As is obvious from that picture it is a Cessna 152 not a 182. The tail number was originally assigned to a Piper PA-23 that crashed and was destroyed. FAA info HERE.

CMP obviously took some "creative license" when assigning a tail number to this model.

Nov 27, 2012, 04:25 PM
M0unt@in M0del$ minion
turbojoe's Avatar
While this thread has been resurrected again is anyone in the Phoenix area looking for one of these models? Mine is still sitting here unfinished and just getting in the way. I haven't really put any effort into selling it. This thing is too big to play with shipping. If I sell it it will be LOCAL ONLY. Don't even ask to ship.

May 14, 2013, 04:32 PM
Racquetball Lives!
Backwall's Avatar

CMP Clone?

Value Hobby has a C-182 that looks exactly like the CMP model except the control surfaces are not ribbed and the nose wheel looks different (cheaper). Cost is $104 USD. Shipping and Handling to a US location was $23. I'll try to post my build findings as I go along. I'm finding that whoever wrote the manual is not likely the same person who designed the plane. If you want to use the manual, think of it more as a stepwise list of suggestions only as following it to the letter will get you in trouble fast--more on this later. There is so much binding in control operation that I'm going to redo all the controls. I plan to go with a Rimfire .80 (50-55 600kv) and the electrifly 60Amp HV silver series ESC. (I've used this combination turning an APC15x10E on a Great Planes Revolver (70") with no problems. I'll probably prop down to a 13 or 14" diameter for ground clearance though. Servos in fuse are Futaba 3152 digitals and servos in wing are Power HD 1711MG (17gram servos). Battery will be 4000Mah 5S2P 40C. While this is an ARF, it is definitely a builder's plane as it will need modded to construct and fly properly.

May 15, 2013, 12:11 PM
Racquetball Lives!
Backwall's Avatar

Wing Servo Attachment

Well, here are a couple of shots of the servo arrangement in the wing (both ailerons, although flaps are same as well). In the first shot (provided by TRACON in an earlier post) you can see how the servo hatch is fairly wide and the pushrod is centered in the opening. The second shot is from the CMP clone. The servo hatch opening is much narrower and the pushrod is right up against the side of the opening. This is the hardware linkage provided with the kit. In fact, the easy link appears to be in line with the side of the opening. To even get the link to go in I had to sand the edge so normal servo movement would pull the link inside without catching on the edge. Okay, so it goes in and out--but not without some binding! The manual accompanying this plane recommended using Power HD 1711MG servos in the wing. And that's exactly what I used. I'm familiar with Power HD as I have used them in the past. They have pretty good torque, are fairly low priced, and so far have shown to be reliable. I've used the 1501MG, the 1711Mg, the 1705MG, and the P1900 (standard ,17gr, 17gr, and 9gr). So even though I used the recommended servo, it doesn't fit the servo hatch pocket very well. To get the pushrod centered, I had to do away with the easy link and go with a z-bend. Of course, with these short pushrods, I had to cut new, longer rods to make the z-bend. And then I cut a slot right along the side the the servo hatch opening where the binding occurred to get room for the top of the z-bend to move freely. I'll add thos pictures next time. The slot is quite small (not real noticable), but it does the job. And that's what's necessary. I considered getting out the trusty heat gun and softening up the plactic hatch and pushing down on the servo opening to make it wider, but went with the slot in the end. I didn't trust that I might slag the entire cover! More details will follow later concerning problems I then encountered with the tail pushrods.
Last edited by Backwall; May 15, 2013 at 12:13 PM. Reason: note on provided linkage added
May 20, 2013, 09:10 AM
Racquetball Lives!
Backwall's Avatar

Servo Hookup

Got a little behind, but here's the result of doing the servo hookup according to the manual. By the manual, the servo closest to centerline is the elevator servo and the servo on the left side of the plane (facing forward) is the rudder servo. The rudder pushrod is connected to the outermost servo horn and exits out the rear of the fuselage on the right side. The nosewheel steering is connected to the same servo as the rudder on the servo horn closest to centerline. So let's see how that works. Rudder left, nosewheel right--ridder right, nosewheel left. That's great--if you follow the manual, you'll have the rudder and nosewheel working against each other. With left rudder, the plane will want to weathervane to the left while the nosewheel wants to turn the plane to the right. In other words, don't follow the manual. The nosewheel rudder setup described in the manual just won't work. And how about the length of those pushrods? As you can see the rudder pushrods barely makes it to the servo horn. To get any grip on it you would have to set the servo horn angle at somethng other than 90 degrees to make it fit, OR run the rudder pushrod out the left side instead of the right side of the fuselage. The nosewheels steering pushrod is pictured in the center and is way to long. But I would rather have to cut a rod down that try to make one longer! And that pushrod length on the elevator barely sticks out as well. So what could be done? I basically switched the controls to the other servo. Now the servo closest to centerline is my rudder servo and the leftmost servo is my elevator servo. I did reverse the elevator servo on the board where it screwed in to get the servo horn closer to centerline so I's get equal throws on the elevators. And I changed the rudder linkage from the right side to the left side. This was better, but I still didn't really like the rudder setup, so I went with a pull-pull arrangement. Photos of that will come later. That's why in an earlier post I said it might be better to refer to the manual as a suggested list of construction steps only. Remember, the pictures below show how the manual describes installation. Following them will not work. More to follow later.

Sep 15, 2013, 03:35 AM
Registered User
headshot001's Avatar
Did you finish the build?
Oct 22, 2013, 04:41 PM
Registered User
Tarolog's Avatar

my flight

my flight Cessna, look from 1.22 min
Горловка 2013-10-13 (5 min 35 sec)
Oct 21, 2015, 12:50 AM
Rampage's Avatar
Bumping this. I know it's old, but I'm going to start mine soon. For a long time I debated on nitro or electric and I definitely want to run electric.

I want to see more battery hatches. Taking the wing off is a pain and I don't want to deal with it.

So let's see those battery hatches!
Oct 21, 2015, 09:41 AM
222 km/hr Parkjet flyer
solentlife's Avatar
Risking the Firing Squad .... (charging on the model !)

My solution was to fix two 5S 3000 packs to the back of firewall with zip-ties. The Balance leads had extension leads plugged in so I could charge her up without dismantling model. The main power lead was Y'd and this allowed it to sit with the balance lead ends at a small hatch in underside.

The 4250 650kv Prodrive motor on 12x6 was more than enough to drag her round and the 6000 mAh capacity gave me more than a couple of flights.

CMP 1.68m Cessna 03 October 2014 Ventspils (13 min 32 sec)

Last edited by solentlife; Oct 21, 2015 at 09:48 AM.
Oct 21, 2015, 08:34 PM
Registered User
Solentlife OMG do you want the whole world to explode in flames and send all of us into space!!!!! Your gong to kill us all. All kidding aside, I have 3 planes I leave the battery in place. Takes to much effort to get it in and then remove for charging.

This is the setup I have in mine. Flys very well.




I run an APC 12x6 "E" prop. More than enough power for it. I just fly in a more scale like manner, lots of slow fly byes and T and G's She looks really good about 7 feet off the ground doing a slow fly bye. I like mine, lots of fun to fly.


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New project Cessna Skymaster large size! bruff Scale Kit/Scratch Built 54 Sep 21, 2009 08:03 AM
Help! Needs help on new Wattage Cessna 182... tnsfrk Parkflyers 19 Nov 26, 2004 11:31 PM
New UltraFly Cessna 182 available now Basketcase Parkflyers 2 Aug 22, 2004 11:43 PM
New pilot gives Push E-Cat maiden flight!(long) Markman Foamies (Kits) 6 Jan 27, 2002 03:22 AM
New Zagi almost done! Ready for maiden flight! Crete1 Foamies (Kits) 1 Sep 05, 2001 11:35 AM