NES Hyper 2.3ME Build Thread - RC Groups
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Jul 26, 2007, 11:15 PM
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Build Log

NES Hyper 2.3ME Build Thread

Hi my name is Lou and I am going to attemp a build thread - This is my first attempt at a build thread so any advise on how to do it is OK and welcomed. I Purchased the Hyper 2.3 ME after talking with Sal at Northeast Sailplane Products at length about my next sailplane purchase. I told him I wanted something small enough to fly at my local park (couple of football fields clear area) that would thermal well, be easy to land, and be of high quality. We talked about a couple of birds and then the Hyper 2.3 came up... I had seen it on RCG and thought it might be the ticket... I was lucky in that Sal gave me the Special Introductory price that he had put on RCG - but were supposed to be for the first two - I don't know if this was one of those or if Sal was in a good mood but it just goes to show ya - It never hurts to ask...... First impressions after recieving the plane are very positive, with only one concern that I will be going into in a bit. If you want to take a look at the NES site the link is: I am relatively new to sailplanes, I have aquired a few others , but this is the highest quality constuction I have experienced to date, I have a 2M Astra from SUSA that is a semi moldie that is my main flyer, but I wanted more of a floater and something I could learn to thermal with. ( They are still pretty darn elusive to me... Thermals that is...) The Fit, Finish, Construction, Covering, Composite Work, etc,etc, is flawless with one exception that may or may not be an issue - Like I said I don't have alot of saiplane experience but I am concerned about the hinging method and the hinge gap on this A/C. They used CA hinges, (I have never seen CA hinges used in any other sailplane I own) and the LE of the control surfaces and the TE of the wing are Square balsa, no bevel, not top and bottom hinged, both are Square and the hinge gap is a full 2mm (a skosh bigger than 1/16") to allow for abundant throw but the gap is not even sealed... This goes against all the building practices I've ever used but then again I'm not a pro sailplane builder... Is ithe fact that for the most part this is a slow, lightweight (26-28oz flyin weight 5-5.8oz in wing loading) thermal bird or should I worry about at the least closing this gap with some covering or at the worst - re-build the control surfaces or send the bird back? It just dosent seem consistant that this level of construction and quality would skip what I feel is a pretty important step of the build process and do the surfaces this way so I'm hoping that this is no big deal and I should just carry on with the build. I hope a few experts will see this and comment, I did call NES - did not speak with Sal but had a return message that said this is no big deal and it will not affect performance and/or flight at all. I have always thought that flutter is an issue but again perhaps because it is only powered on the way up and then its slow and easy for the rest of the flight?? any way here are some Pics of the componants and the hinge gap line I am speaking of......
Last edited by asat; Jul 27, 2007 at 12:22 AM.
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Jul 26, 2007, 11:30 PM
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Here are some pics of the Fuse - it is light as a feather really nice Kevlar with Carbon Tow strenghteners and the seam is as good as I have ever seen as well as the wing mount area and Canopy - the Canopy also has a unique attach method that is molded right into the canopy and fuse - clicks in with a nice positive "Snap" the Boom is perfect finish and fits the fuse like a glove, a nice touch is the Kevlar tow wraps at each end of the boom and stab mounts.
Jul 26, 2007, 11:37 PM
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Stab mounts, Rudder and Stab - all beautiful examples of the craft, and Like I said preliminary fit is just right, the wing rods are snug but not too tight, the tail boom fit is perfect, the wing tips line up on the center section like they were molded that way, everything is just oozing quality except for that hinging and Gap (IMHO)... Well what do you guys think? Overall this is a beautiful example of Built Up Composite Construction Did they miss on the hinging or am I being too picky and anal?? Its OK I'm Tough - Tell me I'm FOS and if it really bothers me put some covering in the gaps and get on with it - right? RIGHT???
Last edited by asat; Jul 26, 2007 at 11:46 PM.
Jul 26, 2007, 11:52 PM
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Some of the Goodies that will be powering this beauty... Build process to follow, if there is interest I will continue but I am finding that it takes longer to take the pics and write the thread than it will to assemble... so let me know if I should go on, and if I am boring you or can improve the thread at all....
Last edited by asat; Jul 27, 2007 at 12:25 AM.
Jul 27, 2007, 07:02 AM
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Andy W's Avatar
It looks very nice but for the price I would have expected a better job on the hinges. I would at the very least seal the gaps, clear tape will do. If it were mine, I would *probably* remove the CA hinges (just cut them off flush with the surface) and use Dubro hinge points, then seal with a matching covering material. I'd have to inspect it in person to be sure, but that's my hunch from your description.

You're going to want a good bit of "up" aileron deflection, and of course close to 90 degrees "down" on the flap. You'd need to install the hinges at an angle so they allow for this movement - the flap would need to have the hinge point as close to the lower surface as possible, the ailerons as close to the top. It's pretty easy to do - practice on some scraps of square balsa until you're satisfied with the placement. The hinge points are very easy to install, you just drill a hole and glue them in place..

Great job on the pics and description. Don't rush it..
Jul 27, 2007, 11:12 AM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar

The other way to get more flap is to cut back the TE at an angle. I was very disappointed in my Hyper 2M in that the flaps would only go down to about 45 degrees without some careful cutting. Unlike Andy, I didn't worry about sealing the gap since this is a sport rather than a contest plane. After running a razor knife down the TE and cutting it back a little at a time, the flaps now go down about 80 degrees which is plenty. The plane is so light that you really don't need too much reduction in speed anyway.

Two other items to watch for: CG with the servo placement in the fuse, and slop in the elevator hinge.

I taped all the equipment in place and found that I could not get it to balance correctly without adding significant amounts of lead to the tail, so I moved the servos to the tail. This was using the same motor you have. Using one of those thin servos, I put the rudder servo in the fixed portion of the rudder and then hung the elevator servo under the fuse like on some of the other 2M planes (Sergio I think???). This balanced the plane but pointed out the problem with the elevator hinge.

The very large control surface of the full flying stab is touchy. Even tiny movements of the control surface make huge changes in the pitch attitude of the plane. My hinge was sloppy and sticky - the worst possible things - so not only would it not move for small trim corrections, once it move the plane jumped all over the sky since the slop allowed unpredictable location changes.

The cure was to use a brand new servo that had no slop in the mechanism and drip thin CA into the hinge. As it set up I moved the elevator up and down. This tightened up the hinge. Then to remove the stickiness I soaked it with lock lub (graphite in oil). Now it is reasonable but not great.

Once of these days I am going to modify the whole elevator and make it a conventional design. This is a nice idea but fails in the execution.

Great photos. Keep it going.

Jul 27, 2007, 04:57 PM
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Neil Stainton's Avatar
(old comment removed)

I now import this model and can confirm that the hinges have improved since 2007 and are absolutely fine.

They offer full and free movement, are gap sealed, and work well.


Last edited by Neil Stainton; Mar 05, 2012 at 01:00 PM. Reason: add up to date info
Jul 27, 2007, 05:43 PM
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Thanks for posting, I am watching with interest on this plane. It is hard to believe a plane of that quality would be hinged like that.

Jul 27, 2007, 08:10 PM
The Lone Blue Plaid Flyer
Bob Cook's Avatar
Hi Lou in PLeasent View,

Bob in Seattle here. I agree with the guys about the hinging stuff. But if you don't feel comfortable doing that process, get some local help or just drive on.
I'm going to have the same issue on the stab sensativity on my Mini AVA. NO slop is the goal.
Your starting out doing a fine job on this thread. Just take your time and relax. Just double and tripple check stuff and be sure before you do a procedure. That cuts down on re-work.
I'm looking forward to your build.

Bob in Seattle
Jul 27, 2007, 09:08 PM
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Well I called NES... Sal is restating that there is no need for 90deg. flaps - in fact he said to build it and fly it the way it is designed and if I am not satisfied with the planes performance he will refund my $$$ - His explanation is that due to the light wingloading and light AUW there is no need for any more surface deflection than what is available on the current design - at 5.5oz in he said it flys so slow you can walk up to it and grab it or land it at a very slow pace, he did say if it made me feel better I could seal the hinge gaps but he is flying one right now equipped like mine with no changes and he said that it needs no mods. I mentioned that it was of such high quality, how could they blow it on the hinging and he insists that they did not, this is the way it is designed and it does not need any more deflection or they would have changed the design... so I am stewing over what I want to do..... He also said not to install any servos in the tail - that mod is valid for the 2M - but the 2.3 Tailboom is longer and the stab is bigger / heavier and he said it comes out just right with the equipment he sold me, it is the same way he equipped his own and he was able to achieve balance with the battery pack placement. I am leaning towards cutting the hinges, adding 2mm of balsa to the LE of the surfaces and sanding a bevel for Top/Bottom Taped hinges as Neil reccomends as I don't want to add more weight with more hinges and the fact that there are alot of CA hinges on each of the surfaces and I dont think I could install the knuckle hinges without hitting some of the CA hinge material and possibly tearing out the LE wood when I drilled.....but I would like a bit more input from you guys - how do you guys feel about Sal's position? So Foamcrusher - how much flap do you use with your Hyper 2M? More than 50deg? (thats about what I can get on the flap and ail.) How about in Crow? do you use full deflection? or more than was available before you modded your wing? My Stab wont have the issues you did as it is smooth as butter and there is no slop at all in the mount, as close to perfect as I have seen.... this makes me wonder if I should mess with the flaps/ailerons at all - I guess I will wait to get more feedback.... sorry for the long windedness....
Last edited by asat; Jul 27, 2007 at 09:31 PM.
Jul 27, 2007, 09:26 PM
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Another Question for you guys - obviously I want to keep this as light as possible but is the 3amp BEC in the ESC enough for six micro servos? I gues the most load would be on landing in Crow and using pretty much all of the servos at the same time. According to the Futaba website all I can find out about current draw is that standard size analog servo stall current is .6amps but on the Hitec site the current draw for the HS 56 and 65 (about the same servo) is 7.4ma idle, 960ma stalled and 200ma @60deg running (no Load) have you guys run six servos on your motor esc or do you use a seperate pack or BEC? Thanks....

Lou In Pleasant View
Jul 27, 2007, 09:33 PM
The Lone Blue Plaid Flyer
Bob Cook's Avatar
Hi Lou in Pleasent View,

Bob in Seattle here. So now your down to the brass tacks. I would take a "time out" and think about this for a while. If it flies as slow as he says it flies, then it really might not matter about the gaps. Ultimately, it's your build, and you should go with what makes you feel good about the plane over all. I'd fix the gaps if it were my plane. As far as the servos go, I'd do some trile and error CG tests first.
If you go with the flaps and ailerons as is, and you don't like the way it flies, you can change it later.
I'd get a nice glass of Pinot Gris wine and think about all this for a day or two. Look at the posts and don't get in a hurry. The final call is yours.

Bob in Seattle
Jul 27, 2007, 09:41 PM
Registered User
I would like to meet you Bob, and maybe share a bottle of that Pinot Gris as we decide which Sailplane we need the most (for now). I like the way you think... must be all that sea air.. clears the clutter. I still think back to my Navy days every now and then and remember with a smile those great sunsets and the power of the sea and the STARS .... oh my Gosh THE STARS...... I have never tried Pinot Gris but I am going to take your advise and go get some - right now - so I'll be signing off for a bit - every one have a great Friday Night and a Lift Filled weekend....

Lou In Pleasant View
Jul 27, 2007, 09:47 PM
The Lone Blue Plaid Flyer
Bob Cook's Avatar
Hi Lou in Pleasent View,

Bob in Seattle here. Funny you should mention stars. My "nightime" hobby is Astronomy. I have 6 telescopes. But this is the wrong place to talk about that. Enjoy the wine. Cheers !!

Bob in Seattle
Jul 27, 2007, 09:55 PM
Registered User
No Way!! I have a 20" Starsplitter Dob and an Orion 8" Dob for the back deck - and I am looking at getting my first refractor - Probably one of the new chinese 100mm Apo's but you're right - this is the wrong forum for that. I knew we had alot in common but this is too cool....

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