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Nov 13, 2002, 08:17 AM
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Building a peanut scale model


I thought I might show how I go about building a peanut scale model and post pictures as I go along, if you would like to build along with me a free plan can be found at the provided link. The model I have picked for the build along is the Kieth Rider Jackrabbit drawn by Tom Nallen and can be found here. http://mywebpage.netscape.com/dmlive...anutplans.html[/url]
The Jackrabbit is a super flier and will demonstrate most of the building skills needed for most peanut models.

So download and print the plan, read it over and get a feel for how it's built, tonight we start the build, yes I will post pics!
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Nov 14, 2002, 07:31 AM
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We have a one day delay, I have redrawn the formers and ribs in Autocad to fit 3" wide balsa and I will show you how to make your own print wood for the Jackrabbit. I will make the part file available, anyone want to host it online for download? otherwise I will have to e-mail the file.
Nov 14, 2002, 05:39 PM
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As long as the file is less than 100K just attach it to your post as a Zip file. Just like attaching a picture.

p.s. Thanks for doing this. I am looking forward to it.



John
Nov 15, 2002, 09:00 AM
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Download the .DXF file for the Jackrabbit parts. I have made the file a DXF so that most cad programs can read it. I don't know how accurate the parts will be as they were traced from a scanned image, but I am sure they will be close enough. You may notice I omitted the spar notches in the ribs as they never line up properly, I will explain a much better way to get nice straight notches when we get to that point.
Last edited by flailing; Nov 15, 2002 at 09:08 AM.
Nov 15, 2002, 09:23 AM
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Extract the .ZIP file and open it in your cad program. The file is arranged to fit 8-1/2 x 11 paper. Follow the next steps exactly, print the parts out, feed the paper in the straight through path on your printer. Measure the drawing the border around the parts is 3" x 10" make sure the dimensions match, make any adjustments until they do. Take the printout and attach a 3 x 10 piece of 1/32 balsa using a very very light mist of spray glue right over the print out. A glue stick would also work to attach the balsa you won't need much just enough to hold the balsa in place during the printing. Now feed the balsa / paper sandwich through the printer and watch the printwood come out the other side Ha!
My printer prints just fine on 1/32 balsa but 1/16 is too thick so we will have to laminate 2 pieces of 1/32 together with white glue. The parts are seperated into 1/32 and 1/16 sheets, cut the 1/16 side free, spread some white glue on the back and laminate a second sheet of 1/32 balsa, wrap the lamination in waxed paper and weight it down on a flat surface until dry. The laminated parts seem to be stronger than 1/16 solid parts.
Nov 15, 2002, 09:37 AM
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You should get this. Note the ribs on the left are 1/32 everything elese is 1/16.
Last edited by flailing; Nov 15, 2002 at 09:41 AM.
Nov 15, 2002, 09:50 AM
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If you are unable to print the wood parts there are other methods I will explain.
1. Make a copy from a copier or print using a laser printer, a bubble jet printer will not work. Iron the patterns onto the wood. I have not tried this but many tell me it works.

2. Use a light coat of spray glue to attach the patterns to the wood. I have used this method but on thin wood it can be difficult if you get too much glue.

3. Use a straight pin and poke holes about 1/16" apart all around the part outline with a piece of balsa under the paper, When you remove the paper you can connect the dots. Works well but is time consuming.

4. Send the file to a laser cutter.

There may be other methods if you have one I would like to hear it.
Nov 15, 2002, 10:21 AM
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We need to make a few little tools to help us, there not hard to make but will help a lot. We need 2 sanding sticks one 1/32 wide and the other 1/16 wide, glue a strip of sandpaper to the edge as shown, the 1/16 wide one you can use balsa but the 1/32 wide you will need basswood or ply. We will use the sanders to make the stringer notches. The glue applicator is a sewing needle stuck into a stick of balsa and half the eye end clipped off to make a fork, I hope it shows up in the pic. we will use it by putting a few drops of C/A on waxed paper and use the fork to pick up a drop of glue, when you touch the joint with the fork the glue will transfer to the wood, this thing works great. Lastly it really helps to have a balsa stripper, the one shown is a Master Airscrew stripper and is the most used tool in my shop.
Nov 15, 2002, 10:34 AM
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OK let's start building, you have cut all the parts out right ?
For years we were told to pin the upper and lower longerons in place then fit the uprights, a real pain there's a better way. Cover the plan with waxed paper and pin the 1/16 sq. upper longeron in place, note the pins just off to one side of every upright location. By the way I use a ceiling tile to build on it takes pins eaisly.
Nov 15, 2002, 11:04 AM
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I use thumbtacks to pin the strips down, if you use straight pins don't pin through the sticks they will split, instead make an X with the pins as shown.
Nov 15, 2002, 11:13 AM
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Hold a 1/16 sq. stick in place at the wing saddle location #4 and put a drop of glue where it meets the upper longeron with your glue applicator tool. We will start here as we are making a self jigging structure, you will see.
Last edited by flailing; Nov 15, 2002 at 11:16 AM.
Nov 15, 2002, 11:43 AM
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Trim the 1/16 sq. stick until the wing saddle part fits over the plan correctly, glue the stick to the wing saddle and pin it down.
Nov 15, 2002, 11:48 AM
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Glue the 1/16 sq. uprights to each end of the wing saddle, leave the sticks long and trim them off after gluing, you can see the front one has been trimmed.
Nov 15, 2002, 11:53 AM
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Glue the 2 gussets in place, use the tip of an X-acto knife to hold them in place as you glue them.
Nov 15, 2002, 12:03 PM
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Glue the remaining uprights in place and the 1/16 x 1/32 diagonal braces, again leave the sticks long and trim them off after gluing. Pin the free end of the uprights down as shown. Note you will need to use a 1/16 x 3/16 strip at location #7 for the motor peg.


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