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Old Jul 23, 2007, 09:45 PM
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Grumpa Tom
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Mini-HowTo

Water cooling the big Bosch 12V motor


My local motor emporium, as well as other surplus dealers, are currently selling a big 12V American made Bosch motor. Looks to be the bees knees for a large tug or other working boat model.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...DC_MOTOR_.html

I purchased one a few weeks ago. How could I resist? Only $ 3.75 for a HUGE motor! I later found out it has a built in thermal cut off. I didn't think it was anything to be concerned about. But I wanted to know at what temp it cuts out. Because I know boat motors can get pretty hot.

So I disassembled the motor and tested the thermal switch. It opens at 200F and resets at 170F. That is rather low for a boat motor, imho. So I removed it. While I had the motor open, I could see it had tons of room inside to add brush water cooling. So I did. I just had to drill a couple of holes for the silicone tubing to enter and exit the motor.

The armature is a 10 pole and as per the specs it runs free at 1.2A @ 12V. I think it will be suitable for a very large tug.
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Old Jul 23, 2007, 09:51 PM
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Nice job there Tom.
Bruce
Old Jul 23, 2007, 11:33 PM
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Thank you sir!
Old Jul 24, 2007, 12:07 AM
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Nice job on the step by step pictures! Easy to understand and very interesting.

Thanks for taking the time to put it together
Old Jul 24, 2007, 01:16 AM
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Would this motor happen to be going into Kmot's SUPER SPRINGER?
Old Jul 24, 2007, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soar Master
Would this motor happen to be going into Kmot's SUPER SPRINGER?
I was looking at the pictures, and the process, and how well everything went back together, and thought almost the same thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Umi's rusty brain
"What boat is he building that needs a new motor.... the springer?!?"
Old Jul 24, 2007, 02:05 AM
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LOL... this motor would sink a Springer!
Old Jul 24, 2007, 03:46 AM
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Nice work Tom!

The motor I have modified for boating use, does not only have brushholder cooling, but I have also made the motor as 'open' as possible, by sawing out as large slits as possible (without compromising the structural strength) to get the hot air away from the commutor and armature.

See picture in this thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...17#post7753417

Regards, Jan.
Old Jul 24, 2007, 10:40 AM
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Jan, that is a great idea! And would make brush cooling hook up much easier. Thanks!
Old Jul 24, 2007, 01:02 PM
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no wings any more, just dust!
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[hands umi some rust remover and emery cloth] Thats for your rusty brain Umi!
Old Jul 24, 2007, 01:03 PM
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no wings any more, just dust!
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Tom is that motor mainly used for Automobile fans and wiper motors??
Old Jul 24, 2007, 02:04 PM
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Boaters are nice people.
That's odd, this motor has exactly the same dimensions as the on I have here, also the armature looks identical.
I guess it's some kind of standard size, widely used in cars to power the cooling fan in front of the radiator.

Regards, Jan.
Old Jul 24, 2007, 02:37 PM
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no wings any more, just dust!
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if thats the case it probably has a high RPM as well when on 12v
Old Jul 24, 2007, 03:19 PM
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I don't have a clue what it is for. Look at the link above to All Electronics. There it says 3900 rpm. That is on 12V.
Old Aug 14, 2007, 06:48 PM
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Help!


Anyone know how to remove oily metal particles from magnets?

I put my machine in gear before I put my brain in gear. I didn't even stop to think about the particles attaching themselves to the magnets. I suppose I could have covered them with masking tape. Now I have a problem. I tried my shop vac, didn't do a thing. I removed as much as I could with my fingers, but there is still a ton of it in there. I soaked it and swirled it in a bath of solvent, to try to remove the oil. If it gets fairly oil free, I am hoping I can 'maybe' blow some of it out with compressed air.

I was thinking I was all badd. Maching out an opening for the cooling lines and hot air to escape.

But Murphy bit me in the butt!


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