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Nov 11, 2007, 09:47 PM
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Wayne V's Avatar
I usually use 2 coats of minwax polycryl to seal the foam, then i can use whatever paint i want, plus it's fuel proof ( at least to 10% omega )
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Nov 13, 2007, 03:06 PM
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S55's Avatar
Well I got the airbrush kit and an air can just to test how it works.
The airbrushing is OK once you have the right adjustment, but there is not much you can do. The nozzle seemed to work only when the last 1-2 threads were engaged. You unscrew a bit and it comes off. The other thing is the air can needs to be shaken from time to time otherwise the pressure goes down. If you keep shaking during painting it’s OK, but I think you shouldn’t have to do this.
I guess next step would be to get a real airbrush.
Nov 13, 2007, 03:24 PM
Back in black............
you would be surprised how well that air brush will work on a air compressor and not the can. I tried using a pasch " spelling" air brush one of the best out there on a can once and it was pure junk. I have never used a can sense.

Nov 13, 2007, 09:24 PM
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Thread OP
That air brush will work great. Dittos to what mike said... loose the can is a silly expensive waste of time. It is very easy to rig up an airhose to the valve on a spare tire (from your car) you can fill it at the gas station (for free) and it will last for a long time.. enough to paint a few planes..
Nov 13, 2007, 11:32 PM
Back in black............
well I have a question on painting foam. I have made several foamys and have never once painted one. I have one now that I would really like to dress up. It is blue core and FFF some of the covering is on some of it that will need to be painted some of it is bare foam and there is striping tape on some of it that will need to be painted. so what are my options for paint that will stick to all these different parts? I have been reading a bunch of different post and you see things for this type of foam and this type but what about the foam that still has the plastic on it and what about the tape. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Nov 26, 2007, 01:02 AM
115 inches of 'hog
ScaleBrad's Avatar
Originally Posted by MarkusN
One of the great properties of Future is that it's self-leveling. No need to worry about brush-strokes.

The plastic model guys are much more discerning about this stuff, and they agree that airbrushing Future is not necessary.

Future is an Acrylic, and as such is not fuel proof.

I've got the brush marks to disprove that
Dec 30, 2007, 02:56 PM
BBW's call me
RCskeeter's Avatar

I wanted to support....

I have to compliment and support the earlier comment about living with the look of foam. Just paint it up with some quick but tasteful coats of acrylic craft paint. If you want a certain color just use a mixing chart and mix/blend colors to get what you want. I have a personal preference for semi-gloss and eggshell finishes, this will also help to hide styrofoams imperfections and make the plane look more realistic. Remember to keep your total amount of paint as light as possible. Seal it all with a light coat of water based poly sealer and Shazam yo done and havin fun.

As for the thoughts on cheap airbrushes and pressurized cans, Just buy a little compressor and a real airbrush. Stay away from the facsimile products that look like tools but are only designed to deceive the customer into purchasing it.

Borrow, work with a friend, be resourceful, and ultimately try to keep it simple and remember to smile alot and have fun.

These thoughts come from my lifes experience.

Skeet in Michigan!

BTW...Winter is Dirty, is it spring yet?
Jan 15, 2008, 10:45 AM
Registered User
I have not seen the LWS mention yet. is it necessay to coat the whole plane with LWS before paint. I have some paticular corners on my Lynx XF i want to fillet, but, do i need to cover the whole plane before i paint?
Jan 15, 2008, 01:48 PM
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Thread OP
The LWS will take paint differently than bare foam. I usually hit the Light Weight Spackle (LWS) with a thin coat of rattle can H2O Krylon primer first.
Jan 15, 2008, 01:55 PM
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Thread OP

Here is a how to thread on painting foam. This is what you can do..
amazing talent.
Jan 18, 2008, 11:50 PM
Painting my Elapor foam Multiplex EZ*, using standard Ace Hardware Primer and standard spray paint.

I tried the Krylon H20 on a EPP foam Reno Midget Mustang, and I didn't care for the adhesion properties.

Granted, my scheme won't be as colorful or nice looking at those already posted.

Jan 22, 2008, 01:10 AM
Registered User
Krylon H2O is not the stuff to use on EPP. Use Krylon Fusion - works great.
Feb 09, 2008, 03:48 AM
I've used Krylon H2O and been very disappointed with the spray and adhesion. It was blotchy and sprayed globs of paint. It took several coats to get decent coverage. It also came right off with masking tape.

Is there much difference in using minwax polyurethane or polycrylic? They seem to be used interchangeably around here.
Feb 10, 2008, 05:01 PM
Chuck Norris can drown a fish.
FISHER711's Avatar
Here is how I paint bare foam. Just finished a GWS Zero this way and had no problems with paint lifting while masking. I use an airbrush for the small areas and a small finish gun for the larger areas and overall priming.

My finishing process: (Bare foam airplanes)

After building is finished and all exterior modification (if any) are done.

1. Light sanding of the foam – removing mold high spots.
2. Fill all the large dings and dents, with light weight spackle (lws)
sand when dry. If you have a very large void such as slot from a spar, then fill with strips of foam first (glued in), then finish with lws.
3. One or two full coats of thinned down lws. Sanding between coats with med foam sanding pad. (lws thinned with water to a cream, rubbed on with finger).
4. Light coat of rattle-can spray wbpu, sand, one more light spray of wbpu and sand.
5. Prime with thinned down wather based primer (I use Zinsser 123, and thin it with windex 50/50 and airbrushed on, although I have brushed it on in the past).
6. Final light sanding with fine foam sanding pad.
8. Top coat with either Latex exterior grade house paint thinned with windex, or thinned acrylic paint (I get the acrylic stuff from Wally-Mart).
9. Clear coat with wbpu. Airbrushed or rattle-can spray.

I find I get a much better finish if I airbrush the wbpu, rather then using the rattle-can stuff (it likes to spit and spatter leaving a poor finish).

Take your time and use multiple thin coats, rather the just globing the paint on. You can get a nice light finish if you use multiple LIGHT coats throughout the process.

Mar 15, 2008, 10:51 AM
Registered Loser
loserdave's Avatar
Originally Posted by Chris F
I used Tamiya Mica Red in the spray can for this Formosa II. It is a metallic paint and looks great.
DUDE! your F4 is totaly kicking!

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