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Sep 10, 2007, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScaleBrad
Future Floor polish makes a great clearcoat when sprayed through an airbrush- or it can be brushed on, but you may get brush strokes. It is foam safe.
One of the great properties of Future is that it's self-leveling. No need to worry about brush-strokes.

The plastic model guys are much more discerning about this stuff, and they agree that airbrushing Future is not necessary.

Future is an Acrylic, and as such is not fuel proof.
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Sep 17, 2007, 04:32 PM
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I've used Krylon Fusion with excellent results on my various foam models:
E-flite P47, E-flite Mini Pulse (landing gear), Tb-20, MiniMag.
Sep 17, 2007, 04:37 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jteplane
I've used Krylon Fusion with excellent results on my various foam models:
E-flite P47, E-flite Mini Pulse (landing gear), Tb-20, MiniMag.
Is this the plastic paint? Will this not attack foam? I've used it on platic and its great but scared to try it on foam.
Sep 17, 2007, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Water Boy
Is this the plastic paint? Will this not attack foam? I've used it on platic and its great but scared to try it on foam.
Yes its made for plastic, but so far I have not seen a problem. You have to go easy on it, a couple of light coats is all I use....
Never tried it on GWS foam, that would be the acid test. (excuse the pun)
Sep 19, 2007, 01:40 PM
jfv
jfv
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<So what would be the recommendation after you put the paint on to protect it and the foam?>

Minwax Polycrylic. I spray it on with an airbrush. I have also thinned it with water and wiped it on with a soft lint free cloth.
Sep 19, 2007, 02:04 PM
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Thread OP
<So what would be the recommendation after you put the paint on to protect it and the foam?>

..Protect it from what?

In my opinion there is a basic issue regarding "foam" that needs to be resolved. It is what it is. Just like stick and tissue or monocote covered models there is a fundamental "look" that cannot be disguised. I think that simply accepting that "look" is by far the best possible solution. Trying to simulate sheet metal and rivets is a waste of time and energy. It will break your heart every time. The stuff flies great. It is cheap. It is magnificent to repair. Settle for "It looks great in the air", paint it fast and use dull finishes and live with the "dings"...........Or make your airplanes from balsa.
jimbo
Sep 19, 2007, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eljimb0
<So what would be the recommendation after you put the paint on to protect it and the foam?>

..Protect it from what?

In my opinion there is a basic issue regarding "foam" that needs to be resolved. It is what it is. Just like stick and tissue or monocote covered models there is a fundamental "look" that cannot be disguised. I think that simply accepting that "look" is by far the best possible solution. Trying to simulate sheet metal and rivets is a waste of time and energy. It will break your heart every time. The stuff flies great. It is cheap. It is magnificent to repair. Settle for "It looks great in the air", paint it fast and use dull finishes and live with the "dings"...........Or make your airplanes from balsa.
jimbo
After flying balsa for the past few months I would tend to agree....
Foam is foam, you can dress it up a bit, but don't expect it to perform or wear like balsa...
however,, IMO monocotes or skin over foam does help with the "dings" issues. My PZ spitfire is proof of that. Still looks great after many flights.
Just my 2c
Sep 25, 2007, 04:28 AM
Registered User
What are LWS and WBPU. I'm trying for a smooth finish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Water Boy
I agree with the craft paints. The only paints I will use, for the most part. I got alot of the small bottles on sale at wally world a few months back. Most Walmarts are getting rid of their craft/fabric depts. I picked up about 20-30 bottles for around .30-.45 cents each.
What are you using to dilute the paint?
I use water but have heard of using windex, what about alcohol?

For painting GWS planes I first sand smooth with some 400 paper and fill with LWS. Then coat it with WBPU (several coats), then lightly sand with wet/dry 1500 paper. This gives a smooth as glass finish. Then simply paint it. (If it were only that simple)
Sep 25, 2007, 09:14 AM
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Thread OP
Hi.
LWS..... light weight Spackle (filler)
WBPU.... water based poly urethane (paint)
Sep 28, 2007, 07:07 AM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Go for the best of both worlds. I used white foam for this fuse, Depron for the wings. The fuse was then skinned with balsa and the whole model epoxy/glassed. Makes a very light weight hard and durable model.

J
Nov 08, 2007, 08:04 PM
S55
S55
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For multi color patterns what masking tape to use so it does not come off together with the paint or the paint you apply after taping does not get under it? Tried blue painter's tape and the paint got underneath.
Nov 08, 2007, 09:43 PM
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Thread OP
S55.
Put the paint on as a fog.. several very light passes with some dry time in between. That always seems to work for me.
jimbo
Nov 09, 2007, 11:33 AM
S55
S55
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That is hard to do with sponge brushing. Might be better suited for airbrushing.
Is there a better tape?
Or maybe I need to get an airbrush.
Nov 09, 2007, 01:13 PM
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Thread OP
S55.
You can get a very decent airbrush from harbor freight in Gresham for 10 bucks..
jimbo
Nov 11, 2007, 05:09 PM
S55
S55
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Harbor Freight opened a store in Beaverton now.
I heard many people saying the cheap stuff does not work well and you would think it's because of you, while in fact it's because of the cheap equipment. Anyway, 10 bucks is not a big deal, it's probably worth trying.
Thanks,
S55


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