Ivan Pettigrew Planes - Build Threads and Videos - Page 11 - RC Groups
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This thread is privately moderated by LukeZ, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Oct 07, 2007, 09:34 PM
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Hal Norrish's Avatar
Here is a link to the video of the Beverley Structural Tests which Ivan did 05 OCT 07.

BEVERLEY TESTS (4 min 24 sec)


Hope you enjoy it as much as we did doing them !

Regads Hal
Last edited by Hal Norrish; Oct 07, 2007 at 09:35 PM. Reason: spelling
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Oct 07, 2007, 10:06 PM
Student of Ivan
mountainman2442's Avatar
Hal,

Thanks for sharing. I find this easier to watch than the Solent tests since I haven't yet started my Beverley ...

It is quite amazing just how much Ivans design's can endure...a strong testament to his engineering skills. Plus they're easy to repair should they come back in more pieces than they went up as, I can verify that.

John
Oct 08, 2007, 01:50 AM
Registered User
LukeZ's Avatar
By golly he did it! Lost a lot of altitude on that last stall turn - I almost had to reach for the barf-bag myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMan
I find this easier to watch than the Solent tests since I haven't yet started my Beverley
Don't worry John, we'll force you to watch it again right before your maiden...


Luke
Oct 29, 2007, 03:02 PM
I eat glue
I's can't stand's it no more! Gotta start work on my Lanc this winter. Will be the size as designed, but might get brushless, not sure yet. Lipos for sure. Will be a slowwwwwwwwww build as I have some others ahead of it, including a couple of beta kit builds. But I gotta join the fray! Gonna order the Mars and Freighter plans soon too, we've got a Freighter in the musuem in Winnipeg.
Baldguy
Oct 29, 2007, 03:56 PM
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RiBell's Avatar

Shameless plug


Quote:
Originally Posted by baldguy
I's can't stand's it no more! Gotta start work on my Lanc this winter. Will be the size as designed, but might get brushless, not sure yet. Lipos for sure. Will be a slowwwwwwwwww build as I have some others ahead of it, including a couple of beta kit builds. But I gotta join the fray! Gonna order the Mars and Freighter plans soon too, we've got a Freighter in the musuem in Winnipeg.
Baldguy
Baldguy:
You can check out my Lancaster here I've just about got my retract and flap linkage worked out. I'm building it at 70% of Ivan's drawn size. Otherwise I'm sticking to the plans. All I'm doing is using 3/32" wood instead of 1/8" 3/16" instead of 1/4" and using contest grade 1/16.
Rick
Oct 29, 2007, 05:07 PM
I eat glue
Heh Rick,
Been following your build, that's why I decided I've got to get going on mine! Got a friend that makes retracts(Model Aviation Products), might see what he could do for the Lanc. Wonder how much extra weight would be gained by sheeting the whole thing in light indoor grade 1/16? Not that I don't like the lighter, open structure, just a thought.
Oct 29, 2007, 06:47 PM
Registered User
RiBell's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by baldguy
Heh Rick,
Been following your build, that's why I decided I've got to get going on mine! Got a friend that makes retracts(Model Aviation Products), might see what he could do for the Lanc. Wonder how much extra weight would be gained by sheeting the whole thing in light indoor grade 1/16? Not that I don't like the lighter, open structure, just a thought.
It the size that Ivan drew it wouldn't be an issue. I'm probably going to build another one some day at the full 103"? span. However it's low on the list for now.
Rick
Nov 10, 2007, 11:00 AM
Registered User

Sealand 480


Luke,

I was reviewing your build thread for some direction(s) in my build of the Sealand 480 (very similar in design to the Solent) I figured I'd ask you since you've done it all and did it extremely well! Some of these questions may seem obvious but, nevertheless here goes:

1. Did you glue in all tail feathers before or after you glued in the tail area sheeting? One way better than another?
2. Did you cover all tail surfaces before or after gluing the tail surfaces to fuse?
3. Noticed you built a hatch cover for access to water rudder and Y connector linkage. Does that cover extend below waterline? Any water leakage?
4. I assume you took fiberglass / epoxy right to end of side sheeting and then overlapped some with covering on top of fiberglass. Is this correct? What did you use for covering on upper part of fuse, above the waterline, non-fiberglassed areas? I'm thinking of trying Flecto Varathane (water-based urethane used for flooring) over fiberglass for hull and sides up to end of sheeting. Any opinions?

Getting ready to start on wing but, I need to lengthen my building table approx. 18" to accomodate the wing. Whatever happened to planning ahead? Duh! Sure wish someone would cut some ribs for Ivan's planes. Whew!

I hope I was clear on these questions and I'm sure I'll have more as soon a I get to more snags.

Thanks!
Nov 10, 2007, 01:28 PM
Registered User
LukeZ's Avatar
Freddy:

1. I glued my tail feathers on to the fuse before any sheeting. I can't say it was better this way or not. Once they're on then they're kind of in your way for measuring the angles on the pieces of sheeting you need to cut. It might have been easier to apply the sheeting before-hand - but then the sheeting would have been in the way during the mounting of the tail feathers. It's just one of those areas you have to muddle through. Remember, no matter how bad you screw it up it can always be fixed: it's only balsa.

2. I did my covering very last after the plane was entirely complete. This is not the way some folks do it but it works for me. And I hinged after I covered which is also not the way some people do it, but again, it worked.

3. The aft hatch does not extend below the waterline, and is quite high above it. If you look in this photo the hatch resides approximately where the words "Pacific Air" are: click here. You can't actually see the hatch in the photo since in fact it's on the other side of the plane, but that shows you how high out of the water it is. Nevertheless, water has still managed to find its way into the aft section through this hatch. It collects in a little pool inside and I mop it up after the flight. All the wood inside was sealed with water-based-polyurethane so it hasn't been a problem. Let me say that this hatch has been very convenient.

4. Correct - I fiberglassed all the fuse side-sheeting (it extends up a couple inches above the waterline) and then I overlapped the covering on top by an inch or so. For covering I used Doculam on the entire model. When ironing doculam to fiberglass I've found it really wants to bubble. Probably would be the same with any covering. I think maybe the heat from the iron boils the epoxy holding the glass on.

I have used Varathane before instead of epoxy for fiberglass and it works well. If you want to go that way I'm sure it will work out fine. Remember to seal the inside of the hull with some of that stuff too. I used 3/4 ounce fiberglass cloth and I wouldn't go with anything heavier than that due to weight concerns. 1/2 ounce might be better. I think next time I will try to go with Ivan's recommendation and attempt tissue and dope, which is something I've never tried. In examining his models it looks quite sturdy and very lightweight.

As for your building table, you may be surprised to know that I build the entire Solent wing on a 1'x4' building board! I had to move it around a lot...

Good luck! Keep chugging away and you'll be done before you know it!


Luke
Nov 10, 2007, 02:47 PM
Registered User
Thanks Luke!
Nov 10, 2007, 04:42 PM
Registered User
sumomo's Avatar
Luke.I think all your pictures in your album are beautifully taken. I believe you have artistic talent. Thanks for all those pictures.
Nov 15, 2007, 08:57 PM
Fly2Build.com
scratchnhover's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sumomo
Luke.I think all your pictures in your album are beautifully taken. I believe you have artistic talent. Thanks for all those pictures.
I have to agree 110% with Sumo's comment. If you're fortunate enough to see more of his images like I have, you'll realize he is full of talent.

MikJon
Last edited by scratchnhover; Nov 15, 2007 at 11:02 PM.
Nov 15, 2007, 09:19 PM
Electric baptism 1975
DavidN's Avatar
How about scotch tape or similar to seal the hatch
Nov 15, 2007, 09:54 PM
Registered User
LukeZ's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidN
How about scotch tape or similar to seal the hatch
That would work very well. The only reason I haven't used that myself is that it would lift the paint off my model. If a person was smart enough not to use paint for their final color, tape would work a treat to seal any hatches.


Luke
Nov 19, 2007, 03:31 AM
Square-rigger
meatbomber's Avatar
Hi guys,

any chance for us novicee builders you could post just how much material you got to build your respective model ?

Thanks
MB


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