Well, I finally got started on this one (after finishing my IPS DVIII and Apogee Sport DLG).

Will post some pics next. Progress is FAST on this one. Peter was nice enough to do this one as a top and bottom shell assembly. Forward box with formers and side keels with rear formers for all the stringers.

In between letting glue dry I also laid up the fin and rudder.

Have both forward boxes done and the top half of formers and stringers in only a few hours of work. I like this Pete!

charlie

Subscribing, Charlie, are you gonna kit this one or is too early to ask?

Charlie,
Glad you like it mate. Do you think that might be the way to go when I draw up the Bristol Monoplane FSM have enquired about. The publisher was kind enough to send me drawings and a disc filled with photos of the one at Old Warden. Lots of close-ups showing details like hinges, rib tapes etc.

Pete

Greg,

Yes, as soon as I do the maiden and fix anything that might be wrong it will be kitted.

Pete,

YES!! It is a very good way to build. No fiddly sticks to cut! I was actually thinking of the Bristol during this. Would also make a great larger plane too

charlie

Here are pics of the fuse parts.

This is only about an hour of work. Mostly waiting for glue to dry (PVA). CA would kae this about a 15 min job.

charlie

Couldn't resist. Two more hours building time=completed fuse and one wing!!

I am setting a new record for a build of mine. At least this might make up for the 5 month delay since I got the plans from Pete

charlie

PS fuse is a strong little puppy. Dropped it twice and tried to crush it once!

Between the clam construction and the nice scallops between stringers, it's a fishermans feast!

I do wonder if I am witnessing a shift in Rake style..

Well, put me on the list for one, lol.

Nice build there Charlie.
I like your angle iron (aluminium?) clamp braces. I'm going to cut myself a few. They appear to do the trick quite well.
Paul

Sky,

Well, I hope it does, at least for round fuses. Now gotta come up with some more round fuse designs for him to draw.

Paul,

Yes, those things have come in handy. I drill small holes in them so they can be pinned down as well.

I also forgot, this one is 44" span, 4ch, for the cheap bell motors.

charlie

BTW Charlie, what are the specs on it? S400 size? span etc.?

The real problem with this construction style is the number of complicated shapes to be precisely cut if it's to work as intended. Remember, my designs are primarily aimed at plan builders who don't have laser cut parts.
Having said that, it isn't impossible to cut the parts by hand, and the laser cut parts will be available at reasonable cost. However, I don't see much point in using this style with square box fuselages. For rounded fuselages it is likely to become the method of choice - although I havent used it on the IPS SE2A. Maybe on the larger one, once I source a suitable cowl and scale the drawings. I currently have a 3 litre Coke bottle that looks very promising and would result in a model about 43.5" span - ideal bell motor territory.
As regards other types that could benefit from the process, apart from the Bristol, include the prettiest Nieuport of them all, the N28, Salmson two seaters, Sopwith Snipe and a whole bunch of Bristish and US between the wars types. Providing you dont mind planking, or soaking and pre-shaping sheet, it also includes many Albatros and Pfalz types. Fortunastely, I have an ample supply of three view drawings from which to draw inspiration. In the meantime, I have a Sopwith Pup to draw up.

Charlie,
Although I'm pretty sure I can see light in the right place, did you remember to cut out the area for the tailplane? Thought I'd mention it now, rather than have you suddenly discover there's no slot - after the fuselage is covered.

Pete

Greg,

We posted about the same time. Look at the post just before yours.

Pete,

You are right. I did forget to cut out for the tailplane before joining top and bottom. But... I did remember in time not to glue that portion of the fuse together

And, square fuses would not do well this method. But, if I ever find time, I thought of a way to make square fuses easier too. Laser cut the vertical and horiz pieces. That way they can be pinned to the board and then longerons glued up. Could even have the longerons cut from bass. Would save loads of time. Someday...

charlie

Lol, Charlie, you probably type faster then me.

Charlie
I have looked at a lot of builds and it seems that most use pins to hold down there parts to the plans. For the past 25 yrs. since CA glue came out (hot stuff) I use 3M 77 spray. A light coat on the back of plans wipe out flat on building board , a light spray on the back if waxpaper wipe down on plans , and a light coat on top of waxpaper and your ready to set down parts on the plans and they stay no pins needed. then glue with ca and sand part with a tbar while it's stuck in place and when done slide a thin steel scale under part turn over and sand the bottom it will still stick to waxpaper. I have less broken parts this way.With this methed I can make both fus sides one on top of the other with a piece of waxpaper in between and 77 spray of course and both sides are the same.
This works great for me and I though I would pass it on if any one wants to try it.
Sonny