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Jan 02, 2011, 11:28 AM
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Thanks every one--Concrete Guy
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Jan 02, 2011, 05:05 PM
Lee / RC Enthusiast
YarSmythe's Avatar
Thread OP

First crash of the Yellow Jacket....well, sort of.


Took my family out to the school today. Got a flight in with my Parkzone Trojan T-28D and Yellow Jacket. After landing the F&L about 5' from me, my youngest ran toward it screaming "I got it Daddy".

Then, what seemed like slow motion....he tripped...and fell....onto my plane. I bit my tongue and just walked away with my hands on my head...trying so hard not to scream at a 2 year old. After a minute I was able to hug my child and say "I'm sure this will not be the last time you break one of my planes."

I guess you can't call it a crash but this was the first time I've had to "repair" a damaged F&L. I'm lucky he didn't fall on the boom and break it. As it turns out, he only took out a chunk from the left trailing edge and broke off the left fin under the stab. Repairable.

If I am able, I'll try to fix it within the next few minutes and get back in the air. The weather here in Houston is just PERFECT for flying.

Happy Days all... -Lee
Jan 02, 2011, 06:05 PM
Long time newbie

Bumble Bee


If you were in combat she'd still be flying. Looks like an EZ fix. Don't be to hard on the little guy, just remember when you were a kid. I'm sure he feels bad enough already.
Jan 02, 2011, 06:25 PM
Reap the wild wind
headlessagain's Avatar
Lee, just think, in 4 or 5 years time the next time your son busts your plane he might be on the sticks
I should keep Yellow Jacket ready for his maiden.
Head
Jan 02, 2011, 06:31 PM
Gravity-Compliant User
Zaurak3's Avatar
A few year's from now, he'll be the one flying Yellow Jacket and you both will get a chuckle out of it...

Can't seem to break mine after hundreds of flights (but, then, I don't have a 2-year old helping me ).

~Roger

(Edit - Whoops, doubled the thought with Head.)
Jan 02, 2011, 08:57 PM
Lee / RC Enthusiast
YarSmythe's Avatar
Thread OP
It took 2 minutes to fix it. Ryan (my youngest) came in the garage and said "Daddy fixed it!!". I was lucky this time around.

Of course, I am reminded of what happened to me last October @ BEST. Removed the canopy for my .60 size tow plane and put it down on the ground. Picked up the plane to move it and stepped smack dab right on top of the canopy. This is an old 1980's kit so it's not like I can go to my LHS to pick one up. Used CA, scotch tape, and gaffer's tape to temporarily fix it. Felt like I had one of those pointy DUNCE caps on my head.

-Lee
Jan 03, 2011, 09:52 PM
QuAd FaNaTiC
Razors edge 29's Avatar
Has anyone ever made one of these using parkzone Ultra micro guts?

Also what type of wing is this?

asymmetrical or flat wing?
Jan 03, 2011, 11:12 PM
Registered User

CG & Battery Location help


I got my 40" F&L started yesterday. KF3 (50% - bottom) wing, carbon square tube and spruce boom spars with the wing and elevator finished. The boom spars run from the wing LE to the tail.

Have 6 layers of FF for the fuse cut to shape.

I have the wing opening for the fuse cut into two layers and these are gluing now.

After digging through the spare parts bin, I'm going with a 30 amp ESC and TP2409-12 (1600 kv, 200watt) motor. This seems like to much power but it what I have (free) to work with. The square wood motor mount is long enough to tie into the CF main spar. The motor is mounted on an aluminum bolt onto the wood mount, so minor adjustments are possible. After reading the posts, I think no down or right offset is needed. Is this true?

Regarding hiding my 1300 3s packs inside the fuse, is the best approach to build up the layers, then cut out the openings for the servos, fit those. Get the ESC, RX and wiring done, and then determine where to cut the hole in the fuse to hold the Lipo's?

Six layers seems like a lot of "mass" to build out the fuse. I want strength (robustness) in the lower side of the fuse for landings, but does it make any sense to cut the fuse in half, and then make the upper half hollow? Maybe store the RX, ESC, etc. there?

What have others done that are dealing with 1" thick lipo packs?

Regarding the Elev. servo to Elev arm? Is this a CF rod across this open space, maybe being "held" to the LE of the Elev with a coffee shop straw to help carry the load. Has anyone bothered with a Pull-Pull setup here. What is the best practice approach to this control.

Thanks.
Jan 04, 2011, 07:54 AM
Lee / RC Enthusiast
YarSmythe's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blade Crasher
Regarding the Elev. servo to Elev arm? Is this a CF rod across this open space, maybe being "held" to the LE of the Elev with a coffee shop straw to help carry the load. Has anyone bothered with a Pull-Pull setup here. What is the best practice approach to this control.Thanks.
The CF rod "hangs" there. It is strong enough to carry the load from the elevator. You do not need to build up any contact points. I use about 1" of HD piano wire at each end for the servo and control horn.

As for pull/pull connections...I haven't seen one. You'd have to position the servo dead center behind the fuse so you don't cut through the stab.

1600Kv motor eh? Wow. Should scream through air.
Jan 04, 2011, 10:00 AM
beemerdon
beemerdon's Avatar
Blade, if I was gonna build another one using your materials I would laminate the first two (of 6) layers of fuse together, then laminate a layer of 1/16th plywood from the (extended an inch and a half or two) nose back to mid-wing. Laminate the next four layers and when you put them all together, don't glue in the area you are saving for the battery. When you have it all together and know where the battery will go for the CG, then cut out the four layers and stick some Velcro to the now-exposed plywood. I also cut slots for the Velcro battery strap. The plywood will really strengthen the nose area, where me and my friend usually break ours!

That will be a good motor for this plane.

Good idea running the booms all the way to the leading edge.

I use a carbon rod for the elevator on the 48" plane with no intermediate supports; no problems.

Cut a strip of colored plastic for the bottom. I got a plastic thingy that kids put their papers in at the school supply section up at the drug store. It doesn't glue well so I taped the edges with colored tape; slides in for great landings!

Don
Jan 04, 2011, 11:00 AM
Registered User

lipo position


Hi Blade
I built my 36" span F&L with full fuse. I could not balance mine with the lipo inside and had to attach it outside the fuse near the motor. everything else is inside the fuse. When I make a bigger one, I will increase the nose length to make it easier to balance with internal lipo( probably by about an 1").
Jan 04, 2011, 03:22 PM
QuAd FaNaTiC
Razors edge 29's Avatar
So I am going to build an ultra micro version of this plane.
Will be using 6 and 3MM EPP, 3mm for 19 Inch WS; vapor brick that is BL compatible AP05 BL set up on 1S if not 2s. Will try single cell first. Might also just use parsons coreless motor/gear box combo - not sure yet!
Will use 1MM CF to reinforce the wing and thin bamboo skewers as tail booms. Trying to keep the weight to 30 grams or less if possible.

Will post one have some results!
Jan 05, 2011, 12:54 AM
Registered User
gatorlynch's Avatar

elevator authority


Looking for some input/advice ...

I am flying a coroplast F&L (re: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2926).

Although a bit on the heavy side (are planes like dogs - their owner's start to resemble them ....)
I'm generallly happy with the way she flies.

This is my first homebuilt & first coro/SPAD, so I wasn't sure just what to expect.

After some experimentation and extending the nose 2", I am able to balance her using a CG about 2.25" - 2.5" back from the LE.

I've got plenty of power/thrust - vertical is no problem. She will loop with no problem & climb under full power

I have plenty of elevator throw, but what seems to me like limited elevator authority/effectiveness at low speeds. It's impossible to get any kind of effective landing flare.

My landing technique is to fly her all the way down, controlling altitude with throttle & cutting power just at the moment of impact. If I cut power above the ground, she will just drop in with no flare or slowdown, even with full back elevator.

It this perhaps something inherent in the design, or simply a function of a heavy plane and corresponding poor power off glide performance?
Is my CG in the right spot?

Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
Jan 05, 2011, 02:05 AM
Reap the wild wind
headlessagain's Avatar
Have you flown inverted yet. Mine only needs light forward pressure on the sticks which is usually an indication that the c of g is spot on. I can cut the power on mine at 100 meters out and up and glide her in for a spot landing & she's a full fuse with ply build running up to a 1750 MAh 3 cell=heavy.
Head
Jan 05, 2011, 02:17 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blade Crasher
After digging through the spare parts bin, I'm going with a 30 amp ESC and TP2409-12 (1600 kv, 200watt) motor. This seems like to much power but it what I have (free) to work with.
I'm using a 1900 kv ~250 watt motor on a 38" span F&L, with a 3S 1300 LiPo, quite similar to what you're going to end up with, and it's great. It's definitely my fast plane, but can go nice and easy too. I'm using a 7x6 prop.

I'm definitely pushing the limits of its construction though - I have onboard video of the wing cracking around the aileron cutouts under the stress of a very fast barrel roll (I like full throws). I built it simple and sturdy, depron sheets laminated with gorilla glue, CF tail booms, CF spar along 90% of the main wing, no reinforcement on the tail surface though. A little hot-glue fixed the cracks (and prevented further damage at those locations). If I were to do it again I'd probably build it very similar, with a couple of extra CF reinforcements.

I do enjoy the high speeds, and have had a dual-motor setup for even crazier speeds in mind
Last edited by jcantara; Jan 05, 2011 at 02:25 PM. Reason: detail


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