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Jun 24, 2007, 04:24 PM
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Multiplex Cularis Construction Tips and Tricks

Hi everyone! I have started this thread so we all have a place to share what we have learned or want to learn about building the Cularis. As the thread starter, I guess I'll start by saying--WOW. If you have not been lucky enough to see one yet, you are missing out on the next generation of well-engineered kits. Everything fits with near total perfection and the engineering is nothing short of superb!

I'll be building mine as a video platform so look for this later in the thread.

Everyone please post what they've found or ask a question! This thread should be a blast!

Last edited by Quacker; Jul 15, 2007 at 11:25 AM.
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Jun 24, 2007, 04:41 PM
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I got my Cularis on Wednesday and have just gotten started. For servos I chose the following:

HS-55 Ailerons
HS-65 Flaps (I got the MG 'cause they were in stock. Carbonite is cheaper). Note: I don't think the HS-55 has guts enough for flaps and the HS-81 is a bit large to cram in there. The '65 is a good compromise.
HS-81 for the tailfeathers.

The first issue that I ran into was the instructions where they say:

The spar tubes are glued in the wing by applying thick cyano
over their full length - but taking care not to allow excess glue
to escape and soil the wing surfaces. Check that the spar
cover 10 fits accurately - initially without gluing it. When you
are satisfied, the joint areas can be “painted” with thick cyano,
and the spar cover pressed into the recess.
Work briskly here, but don’t be too anxious - thick cyano gives
you ample time to complete the task properly without too
much haste. Press both the tubular spars down simultaneously
while the glue is hardening, taking care to keep them
perfectly straight. This stage is important, as it determines
whether the wing is usable or not.
Apply thick cyano to the remainder of the spar cover contact
surface, fit the cover and press it down over its full area.

I found this very confusing since it seems to me that they are saying that the spar cover gets glued and then is somehow available to glue down again. After some study, I came up with the following method that worked perfectly. (I still have no idea if this way is what they intended):

I started by getting each spar and spar extension to the right length and tacking them at the correct length with a small amount of CA.

Then I fit and refit the spar cover over the spars and insured that the edges fit down flush with the wing bottom. When I was satisfied (make sure the spars stick out the right amount), I ran just a thin bead of medium CA down the middle of the spar trough in the wing from root to tip.

I then, with the wing in the cradle, dropped the spars in and pressed down with my fingers along the entire length. Using my other hand, I sprayed the spars with kicker and continued to press while they kicked. The cradle insured that the wing did not get warped or crooked in the process.

The spar cover was then glued in and here is the sneaky part. Having built an EasyGlider, I knew the problems people had when the spar cover CA kicked while lowering the covers in place—I did the following:

Spray kicker on the spar cover and set aside for a few minutes.

Run a bead of glue on the top of the spar and on the long, flat faces of the entire spar cavity, but I DID NOT run the CA up the vertical walls of the trough. This is so no CA will hit the kicker until the spar cover is all the way down. Then lowered the cover into place and immediately pressed firmly on it until the CA kicked. Then I ran CA into the crack where the spar cover meets the wing and did not apply kicker. The CA seeps into the crack and sets up slowly. I spread the seam with my fingers and released it a few times to get the glue down into the crack. It is not important that the glue get to the bottom of the crack. So don’t use too much and don’t try too hard. Wipe up the glue on the surface before it sets. Here's an interesting variation. If you are going to sand the wing to get rid of those unsightly bumps, continue to sand along the seams and resist the urge to blow out or wipe away the sanding dust that gets into the crack. Then apply thin CA and the dust will act as a filler and bond the whole thing. Surface sand the seam when finished.

That’s it.
Last edited by Quacker; Jun 24, 2007 at 10:31 PM.
Jun 24, 2007, 05:19 PM
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Getting more Flap travel.

It's not a flaw, it's a preference. Most guys in the US, at least those flying open class ships, want their flaps to deploy a full 90 degrees. This is because our contest rules require much tighter landings and the full flap deployment means a very steep and slow approach. Not so in Europe so it is no surprise that a European design like the Cularis would not satisfy my appetite for landing flap angle. To get more flap, would require a few simple modifications:

First I sanded the lower, forward edge of the flap using a very coarse nail file board. I sanded it a good amount and continued to test the flap angle until it was quite steep. Not a full 90, but way beyond stock.

Then I did something really funky—I glued the flap control horn in backwards. Yes that seems all wrong, but it needs to be backwards if the geometry is going to work out.

I also drilled 2 small holes on the horn mounting flange toward the trailing edge of the flap. I will use these to attach to a reinforcing plate on the top of the flap. The forces on the flap will be significant and the horn will likely rip loose without it.

The flap geometry will require a computer radio. With the servo at 100% of travel, the flap angle will be zero. With the servo centered, the flap will be at about 45 degrees. At 100%+ of travel in the continuing direction, the flap will be fully deployed.

Reflex (slightly negative [up] flap) can be reached by about 110% of travel in the other end of travel.

Here are a few shots:
Last edited by Quacker; Jun 30, 2007 at 08:31 AM.
Jun 24, 2007, 05:32 PM
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The scary part: Do this only if you will be taking responsibility for the outcome! I had so much hinge resistance on the Easyglider hinges that I quickly realized that most of the stress on the servos was just bending the hinge. Soooo, I jabbed through the hinge with an Exacto like perforating it every inch or so. The result was removing about 50% of the hinge material. I was initially worried about the hinge continuing to tear at the punctures, but nope. It never in the 2 years since, has changed a bit. The Cularis with it's longer hinges was going to put even more stress on the servos, and by doing so, much more stress on the BEC because of higher servo current. I have repeated the above punctures on the Cularis.

Last edited by Quacker; Jun 25, 2007 at 09:00 PM.
Jun 24, 2007, 06:13 PM
Chilliwack Dan
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Excellent Quaker, I picked up mine yesterday and was hoping some one would start a build thread. Will be watching and learning.
Thanks Chilliwack Dan
Jun 24, 2007, 06:20 PM
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Joe Pierson's Avatar

Cularis Build Looking real Nice!

Hi Quacker,
I am in on this build. Always nice to have some one go first! CA is great, but every think had better be right on before you press it togeather! Gorilla Glue now has Quick
Cure Dries White. Works on foam. After I test it out first, I might use it on this build. Looking good !!
Joe Pierson
Kerman Ca.
Jun 24, 2007, 07:06 PM
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I like how CA works. I just rehearse a lot ;>)

I will not be first for long. I can get pretty busy with business, so I hope others will post to this thread as well.

Jun 24, 2007, 08:11 PM
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Right on "Q" I am with You!!
Jun 24, 2007, 11:20 PM
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Fred Sanford's Avatar
Got my Cularis last week so I'm "signing on". Will be curious about power options other than the Multiplex one which is not available from Hobby Horse at the present time.
Jun 24, 2007, 11:48 PM
Oldie but goodie
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I saw these at the local Hobby People store last week. Nice looking.
Jun 24, 2007, 11:56 PM
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If this helps, I'm planning to use a Hacker A30-8XL with 4 A123 cells. The Hacker fits perfectly
Jun 25, 2007, 11:01 AM
It flew...nearly!
Thanks for starting the thread, Quacker, I ordered mine the other day and know nothing about sailplanes (I'm just an rc addict).
Am looking forward to the tips and tricks from you experienced blokes. Pictures would also be much appreciated since I have limited building experience and they really help to clarify things for us nitwits..
Jun 25, 2007, 01:27 PM
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Hi Duck,

From one fowl to another: I think you will find the Cularis surprisingly easy to build correctly. The kit is that well thought out and precise. Welcome to the thread! I'm sure your wits are no less knitted than any others here ;>)

Jun 25, 2007, 04:30 PM
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Joe Pierson's Avatar

Cularis Build

Hi Q,
I am going with a Mega 22/30/3 The holes in the motor bulkhead Part#46 are right on the money! A Jeti Spin 44 and a 3S-2100 I tried a 3S-3700 and it fit.
Joe Pierson
Kerman Ca.
Jun 25, 2007, 05:24 PM
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Cularis Build

I just used some 400 wet dry sandpaper on the rudder. Then I sprayed two light coats of the new Krylon H20 Latex, Artic White. Looks really nice!! It dries very fast! It's worth the effort if you want a nice looking finish. !!
Latex, Water Clean up!
Joe Pierson
Kerman Ca.

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