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Epp Dart with Aquarider fuse... Post# 905
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Latest blog entry: Lost plans
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EPP Yuk 54
Here is another one that started out with FFF but was adopted for EPP. The video is amazing. the pilot is hovering the YUK 54 indoors with so much stability he actually lays the radio down while it continues to hover on it's own!!!!
This site includes plans and video (post #2). https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194431 Here is the post from this thread with an epp version. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=470 |
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Last edited by leadfeather; Jun 27, 2007 at 06:23 AM.
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Here's a trick .... All those EPP scraps left over from other projects can be edged glued together into sheets again (UHU) and made into a workable plane ...why waste all those odd size bits ...
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Latest blog entry: Lost plans
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Dan, I've dug up a couple of other posts that might be of use to people. BTW, thanks for all the time and effort you're putting into this thread, it's very much appreciated.
Sloper Steve's Strategic Strapping : https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2427 The Bevel Method I Use : https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=5003 Another thing that's obvious to scratchbuilders but is sometimes overlooked by newbies : When you're using a slow drying glue use sewing pins to hold joints together while they dry. You can often carry on working on the model without having to wait overnight for the glue to dry, and the holes magically dissapear in EPP when you remove the pins. |
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Here is my (similar) tip for slow glues: I use a very little bit of CA at the ends of the glue joint instead of the pins to hold the foam during curing. When applying the slow glue, leave a little bare spot for the CA. Apply the CA to these bare spots. Spray a little accelerator on the mating piece where the CA drops will contact. Bring the pieces together and hold for a few seconds while the CA sets up and 'voila' its held together securely while the slow glue dries and no worries about the pins coming out or the foam moving. |
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We found CA to be a bit brittle for EPP and would fail down the line .... a better alternative is the more flexible adhesives like UHU, GWS glue , or hot glue , our favorite...just our preference if your flying skill is less than perfect
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Latest blog entry: Lost plans
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don't forget to mention that Welder glue.
I don't think there is better out there and the others usually cost more. There may be one of the UHU's not tested they have so many. |
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Last edited by leadfeather; Jun 27, 2007 at 05:56 PM.
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Steve, your tape worked out SO well for EPP , I know your recommended glue must be terrific too ... I'll order some from you straight away..
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Latest blog entry: Lost plans
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I might do a video clip for clarity. |
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Good tip LF, I used to use 'Chemical Pinning' back in my balsa days. I've never tried it on EPP, i'll have to get the kicker out and give it a go. I use welder for 99% of my builds now (epoxy for control horns), I used to use UHU POR (Creativ in the US) but much prefer Welder now, even though have to import it.
BTW, I sent Dekan a roll of the infamous EPP tape and he likes it too |
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I recieved my Sloper Steve tape. I did a little expereiment. I cut two strips of epp, 3/4" wide by 12" long. On one strip I applied the tape top and bottom. What a difference in stiffness!!!
Holding each of the two strips from one end only in my fingers, the no tape strip droops a lot. The taped strip... straight as an arrow. Probably not as strong as carbon rod stiffening, but who cares as long as it is strong enough. Way easier to apply and lighter than adding carbon spars. Sticks to epp as advertised. Two thumbs up! |
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... and flexes with the airframe instead of catching on something and tearing the EPP...as with CF spars ... besides being much cheaper and safer than that nasty CF...
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Latest blog entry: Lost plans
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