Originally Posted by Tom Conn

Anyone know where I could get a vertical stabilizer/rudder for a GWS 40? I was putting a kit together about three months and that part apparently dematerialized into thin air one night. I've been waiting for it to turn up somewhere, but I'm getting discouraged.

Condre'

You could try here:

http://www.caliberhobby.com/gws40_parts.html

I just received an EPO GWS P40 to build for my brother-in-law. This will be my first GWS P40 build. I've got a few questions.

This is the gear he wants to use in this plane:
TR 35-30C 1100kv Brushless Outrunner (Eq AXi 2808) 10x6 - 11x7 MAS 2 blade props
TURNIGY Sentry 40amp Speed Controller
ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 20C

To get my GWS 190 to balance I had to hog out foam so the 2200 battery sat all the way up forward. Similar with the AT6. Had to place the battery as far forward as possible. You guys that are saying this plane is balancing tail heavy, do you have the EPS or EPO versions?

I plan on mounting the ESC inside the cowling with the motor. Can I safely expect similar weights with the EPO P40 as I did with the 190? Battery forward under the cowling or aft near the cockpit? What should I expect with that listed gear as far as dealing with CoG issues in the EPO version?

Originally Posted by jamesdr

I think the sweet spot for this size plane (P-40, FW190, AT-6) is a 480 class motor. I had the GWS3008 in my FW before it's demise and it flew very well - not outrageous - much more than scale.

Jim

i agree, i'm using a 3530 1400 kv with a 10 6 prop and a dubro spinner..i think this puts the cg a little forward of where recommended, i like that this plane smokes if i want it to..motor is from hobby city, also use 2100 tp lipo auw is 30.45 oz. belly flopper with flaperons sweet flyer..

[QUOTE=haiduk]I just received an EPO GWS P40 to build for my brother-in-law. This will be my first GWS P40 build. I've got a few questions.

This is the gear he wants to use in this plane:
TR 35-30C 1100kv Brushless Outrunner (Eq AXi 2808) 10x6 - 11x7 MAS 2 blade props
TURNIGY Sentry 40amp Speed Controller
ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 20C

hi, i'm running a set up nearly identical than the one you are suggesting, except i'm using a dubro 2 3/4 spinner, i have no cg issues with that..the extra weight from the spinner and the heavier 3530 motor are a sweet set up...my esc is in the fuse under the batt compartment as provided works fine, my esc is 32a, i use tp2100...i have not had to dig out any foam for the battery..

I've finally maidened and flew few starts with my P40. it has a dualsky 2830 spinning a 10*6, runs on 1500 3s lipo, and is barely over the minimum weight with a big plastic spinner and a big lego (duplo) pilot figure. w/o the spinner, it measures exactly as the recommended minimum weight.
it flew very nervous with the initial cg, I moved the lipo all the way forward, it looks now nose heavy, but flies very well (I can measure later). for me it seems that 200W is enough. however, I did shave most mould marks and covered underside of wing (servo lead tunnel) with ora.
I'd like to drop 2200 3s lipos in it but I think it would get way too nose heavy (and +60g). now it balances with any weight.

Few pics of my P40, paint inspired by my new kyosho Trixie and thanks to RC Dallas for the tips about the paint, he has the same paint scheme as mine.

hi iscozky.. your p 40 looks awesome, is it epo? what are you running in it?

Originally Posted by tomi20v

I've finally maidened and flew few starts with my P40. it has a dualsky 2830 spinning a 10*6, runs on 1500 3s lipo, and is barely over the minimum weight with a big plastic spinner and a big lego (duplo) pilot figure. w/o the spinner, it measures exactly as the recommended minimum weight.
it flew very nervous with the initial cg, I moved the lipo all the way forward, it looks now nose heavy, but flies very well (I can measure later). for me it seems that 200W is enough. however, I did shave most mould marks and covered underside of wing (servo lead tunnel) with ora.
I'd like to drop 2200 3s lipos in it but I think it would get way too nose heavy (and +60g). now it balances with any weight.

hello, it seems like most folks always end up with a more forward cg than recommended..i think all my gws have more forward cg..they fly great..my last gws i built was a spitfire, it flew very nervous,twitchy, until i put a whole stick of clay in the front. now it flys perfectly.. i say go for it with the 2200 lipo just click in a couple of up trim on your elevator, and don't add any weight anywhere.. just play with battery placement start forward...mine weighs 30 .45 oz without landing gear, 3530 10/6 prop 2100TP smoking fast or half throttle cruising, take your pick, i'm in love with this set up

Originally Posted by ryramZ

hi iscozky.. your p 40 looks awesome, is it epo? what are you running in it?

Thanks Ryramz, yes it's epo, I have a TGY BM TR 35-36C 1100kv, 54 CC thunderbird esc, 2200 flightmax 25c and a 9x6E apc.

Originally Posted by ryramZ

hi, i'm running a set up nearly identical than the one you are suggesting, except i'm using a dubro 2 3/4 spinner, i have no cg issues with that..the extra weight from the spinner and the heavier 3530 motor are a sweet set up...my esc is in the fuse under the batt compartment as provided works fine, my esc is 32a, i use tp2100...i have not had to dig out any foam for the battery..

I picked up a red 2 3/4 dubro spinner too. I hogged the foam out in front of the battery box. If the pack doesn't need to go further forward then there is plenty of airflow through the battery compartment. That works too. I put a layer of .5 fiberglass inside the battery box to strengthen it a bit. I also carved out a bit of foam where the battery leads go. Hopefully it will be a nice neat installation.

I plan on mounting his ESC in the cowling with the motor. I layered 2 coats of .5 fiberglass inside the cowling. 4 layers on the bottom half. I'll post some pics when the cowling is more completed.

Have been playing around with color schemes. I am building this plane for my brother-in-law. It's his first warbird so I want to make sure it's easy to see in the air. Orientation will be an issue.

My pops finished carving a pilot for this plane. It needs a bit of paint.

Got the pilot painted. I think I like the way he looks without the glasses. Since this is my brother-in-laws first warbird, the pilot has an type expression on his face. He's thinking "I'm screwed!"

haiduk,

When trying to take close up pics of something small, I try to stay at least 4' away from the subject, then zoom in with the camera. That should help git rid of the blurriness.

Pat

I think the issue was with the lighting last night. I took a few more photos this afternoon outside. Tried from 4 feet and again from about 18 inches. Much better, but still not perfect.

Figure I'd post some photos of the cowling mods I did. I wanted to open up the front of the cowling to make sure there is good airflow around the motor, esc and through the battery box. Again, this is my brother-in-laws first warbard so I wanted to make sure the cowling was fairly solid too. I found some fiberglass screen to act as a grill.

Roughed up the inside surface with steel wool. I used two layers of 0.5 ounce fiberglass around the inside of the whole cowling. Then two more layers inside the chin. Let it cure out for a few days.

Gorilla glue makes a nice solid base for the screen. I spritzed the inside of the cowling with water and shook out the excess. Laid a nice small bead of Gorilla glue inside the frame area and hit that with a spritz of water to set it off. It foams up about 10 times. After curing I took my Dremel to it. I made a ring from Dollar Tree foam to fit just inside where the spinner goes and glued that in with Gorilla glue too.

The tricky part was getting the screen trimmed so it fit nicely. Thinned some Gorilla glue with water about 50/50 and brushed it on with an acid brush. Wait about 5-10 minutes until the glue starts to get tacky and carefully position the screen. Have to kind of baby sit it at this point and make sure the screen stays tight and pressed in as the glue foams up through the screen. Thin CA helps hold the screen in place as the Gorilla glue foams up. Very solid when its cured.

The cowling at this point weighs 19grams. Not too bad, it is dramatically stronger now, and breathes well.

wow !! thase cowlings really look good. I am very eager to see how this project progresses..your brother in law is getting the hook up...keep up the good work