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Jun 07, 2007, 12:42 PM
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Gazaur Mars 480, Check it out.


I got an early Gazaur Mars 480 prototype, and thought id share with you all!
OK guys, im gonna make a Detailed build thread...so here goes.
My setup:
HS 65mg's on cyclic
Gy-401/9650 on tail
Zpower 3800kv for power
Jeti Spin 33 esc
Apex 15c 2100mah 3s lipo, and an ORCRC 4s 2100mah 25c.
PIcs to come.
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 08, 2007 at 04:24 PM.
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Jun 07, 2007, 12:43 PM
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Getting Started


The kit is supplied in a nice attractive glossy box about 8"x4"x16". Opening the box you will find everything is sealed in clear plastic heat sealed divided bags, with white labels clearly showing the part number of the parts contained in that portion of the bag.


One nice touch, There are quite a few crash / spare parts included in the basic kit, including main rotor blades, mainshaft, tail shaft, 2 main gears and 2 each of pinion gears in both 10 and 11 tooth. Gazaur has even seen fit to include wire loom, 800 grit wet or dry sandpaper, adhesive backed velcro, zip-ties, several small metric allen wrenches that will be needed to complete the kit, along with both red and green thread lock and even some silicone grease. These are nice touches.

The smallest allen wrench supplied is 1.25mm which is smaller than what I need for the larger helis , so having it included really saved the day for me. We live in a very rural area and it would have been hard to locate a metric allen wrench this tiny at the local parts store.

The manual is very complete with many many detailed drawings and exploded views detailing the pieces and their orientation. Rather than a Chinese version and an english version, the manual is provided with both on the same page, starting at the front cover.
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 08, 2007 at 04:26 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 12:44 PM
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The items are identified in the drawings with a number that matches a small chart on each page that links the number in the drawing to the actual item number.


There is an parts list in the rear of the manual that has all of the item numbers among with a description, dimensions and a picture of the item so that it can easily be identified. The only down side to this is that you need to jump back and forth between the exploded view and the parts list quite a bit to make sure you are using the exact part number for the step you're working on. This sounds complicated , but take a look at the pictures, and you will quickly see the relationship between the exploded diagrams, the chart and the parts list.
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 08, 2007 at 04:25 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 12:45 PM
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Lets Build!


As you build you will need to have a small metric ruler or other metric measuring device handy (I use, and recommend digital calipers) Not paying attention to the manual got me in trouble two times as I was building the kit, The first time was when I was assembling the battery keeper frames. The manual calls for 7mm long screws to be used on the CF frame spacers and I used 9mm long screws. This caused the screws to butt together in the middle of the spacers and never tighten to the frame sides. Because the frames were slightly loose, this would have alllowed the CF frames to vibrate on the screws and possibly caused radio interference. luckily I noticed that problem and quickly replaced the screws with the correct 7mm length.
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 07, 2007 at 12:59 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 12:46 PM
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Chassis/frames


The carbon fiber chassis pieces are 1mm thick material with a very shiny silver finish. They are very lightweight, and seem quite strong, while allowing some give and flex. Look closely and you can see many small slots, and corresponding tabs on the other pieces, these are Gazaur's unusual interlocking mortise and tenon system. It is used in many places to minimize the number of bolts and screws, saving as much weight as possible.

The square holes are for a short length of rubber tube that helps hold the landing gear pieces together as well as provide some cushioning for hard landings (more on this later). Overall the finish looks very good.


There are metal grommets crimped into the tail boom attachment holes for added support in this high stress area.
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 07, 2007 at 01:01 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 12:47 PM
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Step 1-4


Servo Base and Servos:

The servo tray is a triangle shaped assembly made out of machined aluminum (with exception of the bearings). There are 5 pieces to complete the servo hub. It also connects the upper frame halves together and contains the upper and lower main shaft bearings. The main shaft is a 5mm solid steel shaft.

[imghttp://www.myrctoys.com/images/stories/mars/servo-mount-with-servos.jpg[/img] (the GWS servos were just my demo servos for the build)

The motor is a Zpower 450class 3550 Kv motor, both 10 and 11t pinion gears are included in the kit. I chose the 11 tooth, to keep the head spead high for best performance.

The next part involved with the motor is the mounting plate that mates it to the frames. a simple 3 piece Motor mount takes care of that!
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 08, 2007 at 04:25 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 12:48 PM
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The belt idlers are nylon, and ball bearing supported. The mount is the mortise and tenon attachment using bolts only for the idlers. it sandwichs between the frame halves.


Here you can see the arrangement of the motor, swash anti-rotation bracket, and belt idler assembly. The frame spacers are made of nylon and have a small shoulder that fits snugly into the pre-cut holes in the frame halves. Make sure you get the shoulders on the ends of the frame spacers seated squarely in the holes on each of the frame halves to ensure proper frame spacing.


The lower frames are just a matter of slipping a few pieces together, and mounting onto the upper frames. (pics of this in a few hours)

Tail:
The tail drive belt is made of a high strength rubberized material and seems to like higher tensions. Pay careful attention to the bearing sizes used in this step, There is a combination of 3mm and 4mm wide bearing used and it is easy to assemble it incorrectly (don't ask me how I know this).


The tail box is something else! The tail belt drives a white nylon gear that meshes VERY SMOOTHLY
with a brass gear, that drives the tail rotor away from the direction of the rotor wash. The opposite rotation of the tail rotor is just one of Gazaur's unique designs. Once I've had a chance to fly it and get used to the performance I'll post my impressions of the tail design. The gearbox eliminates the need for high belt speeds(no belt snaps here Trex fans!)
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 07, 2007 at 01:13 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 12:49 PM
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The tail blades are made of black plastic, and have a couterweight that supposedly makes hovering in a side-wind easier. When setup right the tail controls feel very smooth and presise.


Heres a close up of the pitch slider assembly and completed tail. The tail rotor grips are a double ball bearing design with a sleeve spacer between the bearings using 3x6x2.5 and 2x5x2.5 double shielded bearings. they seem quite snug and slop free.
Landing Gear:
The landing gear use no screws to hold them together, but instead use little peices of rubber tubing or foam(depending on the kit) my kit did not have the foam to use, so i used the rubber. The skids/struts are again mortise and tenon system, very strong yet can absorb alot of impact before breaking.


The landing gear mount to the frame the same way they do to each other
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 07, 2007 at 01:17 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 12:50 PM
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The hub and blade grips all go together fairly easy, make sure that the order of bearings/washers in the blade grips are as follows(from inside of grip, out): bearing|big washer|thrust bears assy|little washer|bearing. Be sure to use one brass micro washer (LC06) between the bell mixer arms and the blabe grip arms. This is what determines the phasing of the head. I found that using a single washer is the most correct. (assembly Video to come)



The swash plate has a very interesting design, it can do 90 degree eCCPM, and 120 degree eCCPM, this is a very nice feature as some people may not have a radio capable of doing 120 degree mixing. Check the manual for which holes to use for which mixing type you want to use. I'm using a Futaba 9CHPS that does 120 degree eCCPM so I put the balls on the swashplate in the inner holes.
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 07, 2007 at 01:19 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 12:58 PM
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The tail rotor servo is mounted by 4 screws attatching to 2 molded plastic fittings that are screwed directly to the lower frame. You can use a wide variety of servos with these mounts. shown here is the futaba 9650 digital micro tail servo. Mounts have to be put on the outside of the lower frame to get to fit right.

With a Hitec HS-55 or similar sized servo, put the mounts inside the lower frame pieces as shown here.
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jul 24, 2007 at 01:36 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 01:08 PM
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Pitch setup (my preferences)


Normal: 10/1.5 cyclic 6 degrees (this way you can drop the throttle fast and the heli wont be a brick)

Idle up 1: 11/0 cyclic 7 degrees (i like to set it up so it still acts as a normal with a little bit higher RPM but i can still drop the throttle and it still goes to 0 throttle)

Idle up 2: 10/-10 cyclic 7 degrees(this is for mild 3d)

Idle up 3: 9chps) 12/-12 cyclic 8 (this is if your only doing 3d, if your a beginner setup idle up 1 and normal.

Links: From servos to swash: 45.5mm

From swash to Flybar control arms: 49.7mm

From swash to Bell mixers (hoops): 64.5mm

From Bell mixer to flybar: 28.3mm (or 25 for 3d)

**NOTE** Gazaur's manual shows the links being measured from the end of the plastic links, do not measure from the middle of the links...but as they show (from the ends)
Also, in the manual it says to use the upper hole on the main shaft for 3d, and the lower for smooth flight, i found that i could not get the right cyclic/pitch range in the upper hole, so for all purposes, you need to use the lower hold (putting the head higher on the heli)

Tail: Use the outer hole on the tail blade grips, this will allow the heli to piro equal speeds both ways. set up the gyro/tail servo according to your gyros manual. I used the GY-401/futaba 9650 for crisp response. The 401 features a "limit" and a "delay" feature for perfect tail control. set the limit so that the tail doesn't bind on either side. In order for the tail to be perfect, it needs to be setup mechanically as well as with the electronics. With using the 9c there are great gyro programming features, i used the "C" switch for optimum holding settings. Make sure to setup at least one rate mode on the gyro, and of course a heading hold. The tail should hold without correction in rate mode if the tail is setup properly. DO NOT add trim to make the tail still, adjust the tail control rod. if there is trim applied, the heading hold mode will go nuts.


Your first flight should be little hops, unless you are an experienced enough pilot to do otherwise, check directions, set the controls how you like, make sure the tail will hold in rate mode(if using a GY 401)

I dont want to tell you what you already know about first flights!! My first flight was very successful, I only had 2 clicks of left trim, the tail response was great thanks to the 401/9650 combo. If you plan on doing hard 3d with the mars, i reccomend that you get a decent set of CF blades. The Gazaur wood blades hold up to the RPM fine, but they are flexible enough to not allow the fast and snappy control you will want for 3d.
Last edited by Eeeeky; Jun 07, 2007 at 01:24 PM.
Jun 07, 2007, 01:21 PM
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Flying impressions


The mars 480 is one of the smoothest mini helis ive ever flown, I have a T-rex Se, and it doesn't compare for smoothness, or fastness on the cyclic. There was a few things i think could use a little bit of improvement, for one, unless you build the head perfect, there will without a doubt be phasing problems, also the tail control links (little tiny links), couldnt be tight, otherwise it pinches the control arms and wont move, you need to back the screw out to where its free, but only that much...And one last problem, the anti-rotation arm(in the upper frame) is a little bit to far away from the swash plate, i had a crash due to that coming out, i put a small washer between the bolt and the spacer, and the problem was gone(easy fix!)

With Century Rotortech 320mm blades, and a good lipo, and the Zpower 3800kv motor...3d power is insane, and flying characteristics are phenominal. As long as phasing is correct, and the swashplate stays level through the whole travel, there should be no pitching or rolling when hitting a flight comand.

The kit is very well laid out, and the heli is definately a builders kit!! the few things that needed improvment are:

The Antirotation arm needed to be longer or the CF peice closer to the swash, or use an align bolt with flat, wide screw.

The tiny tail links needed a spacer in them to make it so you can tighten the tail down without worries, but the way it is seems to be holding up great!

Gazaur should include a few extra tiny brass washers used for the mixer arm spacing on the head...otherwise, this heli is spotless. None of the Cf peices were miss-cut, and every lined up perfect...

Great Job Gazaur! This is an excellent heli, and flies like a dream!
Jun 07, 2007, 02:30 PM
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Jun 07, 2007, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Eeeeky
Always been a fan of Creed, nice flying there


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