100" Hollow Molded Dynamic Build Thread - Page 4 - RC Groups
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May 25, 2007, 10:24 PM
Stay in it!!!!
Originally Posted by infopimp
Am I the first to ask if there is a list, and if I can be added to it?
There are three people who are waiting to get one of these planes instead of the 80" planes. Im upgrading their order in exchange for the extra wait time. I need to take care of these guys before I can take any more orders.
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May 25, 2007, 10:34 PM
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lensrc's Avatar
Originally Posted by joe manor
There isnt any difference in the two plugs. They are exactly the same. It is easier to get one really nice then to get two really nice.
I look forward to seeing the results. I have been studying up on hollow moulding, and this thread will surely be educational!

Len, aspiring compositor
May 25, 2007, 11:04 PM
{A life in the wind=~-
invictarocks's Avatar
You're an inspiration Joe. YOU ROCK!!!!!
May 31, 2007, 02:57 PM
Stay in it!!!!
A pic of the new bird.
May 31, 2007, 04:20 PM
I'm your huckleberry
Doc Holiday48's Avatar
Nice Joe. What modeling software are you using? You seem to have access to some sofisticated equipment. That has to be a big help in getting a project like this off the ground.

May 31, 2007, 05:44 PM
Stay in it!!!!
The picture is from Rhino software.
May 31, 2007, 06:38 PM
Stay in it!!!!
Originally Posted by Pauld109
Joe, a question that mayby has a simple answer but I've failed to see it. You have CNC milled MDF which is a little unstable and then treated it which took quite some time I imagin. Why not go with Aluminium or other harder and stable (plastic's?) material. The only reason I can see is that the CNC m/c is for wood only.

Paul. Who's probably going to get red faced on this one
Sorry it took so long to get to this one Paul. There are other tooling materials out there but frm what I have heard they arent worth the extra money. MDF is easy to sand and fill and that goe a long way when you need to clean up witness lines or other small imperfections. It is also thousands of dollars less expensive to use MDF than it is to have aluminum female molds made. Im actually considering having some made but there is a lot of hand work (labor) to clean up aluminum after it is milled. That alone jacks the price way up.

The guy doing my milling is experimenting with resins. We will see how that goes. Sorry I dont have more info on other tooling boards but It was reccomended to me that I stay away from it because it's not worth it.
May 31, 2007, 07:30 PM
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motorhead's Avatar
I saw on another thread where the guy milled the MDF past the surface that he wanted. He then coated the MDF with epoxy and then final milled the epoxy surface.
Just a thought.
Jun 02, 2007, 12:21 AM
Goodpasture's FTW
Keith R.'s Avatar
Amazing. You rock Joe!
Jun 03, 2007, 05:37 AM
Registered User
What about utilizing a solid surface material similar to corian or thereabouts?

Wouldn't that be a little more stable, still millable, sandable, patchable?

Sorry, I just fell into the thread. Looks like an amazing project. Keep up the fine work Joe!
Jun 03, 2007, 06:38 AM
Model Bender
OzDragonFlyer's Avatar
if you haven't upgraded to rhino4, do it.. It makes previously difficult things a whole lot easier (variable radius fillets.. yay!)
Jun 03, 2007, 12:27 PM
Stay in it!!!!
Freak, Corian seems like it would be ideal. Ill look into it!

Oz, I barely know enough to look at images on Rhino. The CNC guy is doing all of the cad drawings from my specs and ideas.
Jun 03, 2007, 09:24 PM
Model Bender
OzDragonFlyer's Avatar
I've seen wing molds made from corian.. beautiful! But.. a lot of hand finishing work required, and the stuff is apparently hard on tools, even carbides. Another alternative (down here in Oz anyway) is caesar stone, but again, not the nicest material in the world to cut. The dust made when cutting this stuff is similiar to cutting cement with a radial saw, and gets everywhere.....
Jun 17, 2007, 11:26 AM
Stay in it!!!!
I got my fuse plugs. I sprayed a couple coats of black varnish on them and let dry.
Jun 17, 2007, 11:31 AM
Stay in it!!!!
Once dry (24hrs) I sanded them with 220 grit. There is a 2" long cap that plugs into the back of this fuse not shown. I havent got it yet. It sits under the elevator control surface. It allows access for seaming the fuses up in the mold and is access to the elevator servo which will sit under the elevator.

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