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Feb 23, 2010, 01:49 PM
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Diesel 48's Avatar
What can I say? When this slacker cleans up, he cleans up really well!
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Feb 23, 2010, 04:37 PM
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jims123's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atom1025
Jim during your venture the IYF44 did not exist, this one has your name written on it. Mine slopes awesome, I just leave the prop on and it glides great. Much tamer then demons and tl's. Check youtube for vids if you have not seen them.
Will do.. thanks
Feb 24, 2010, 12:22 PM
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jpinn's Avatar
Just got my new Demon from CK. Couple of questions.
First, the sparring appears different, there is one thick carbon tube spar, I am assuming this goes between the wing halves. And there are several white fiberglass rods. How should these be oriented? Also, does the main spar go in the forward or aft hole?
Second, I was under the impression that there was a better way to lay down the covering than just using 3m-90 spray for a speedy wing. How is this done using PU or gorilla glue?
thanks.
Feb 24, 2010, 01:54 PM
characters welcome!
Mark Wood's Avatar
Did you get the DVDs and watch them?

mw
Feb 24, 2010, 02:08 PM
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jpinn's Avatar
I have a dvd from over a year ago, has anything changed on them? if not I will just rewatch it
Feb 24, 2010, 02:35 PM
resU deretsigeR
PaulVi's Avatar
Some changes the new DVD is like 9 month over due to be done... I have all the raw video edited but....

Search on adam's posts he has a few build threads that cover the updates. ck shows a few of them in the ritewing vender thread as well.. but the basic build is the same just some fine tuning.. mostly in the light builds..
Feb 24, 2010, 03:46 PM
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jpinn's Avatar
I still don't understand how to use the small white rods. When I built my TL-50 I had 3 carbon spars, now I only have one carbon spar and 4 much thinner white rods.
Can anyone help me?
Feb 24, 2010, 05:04 PM
Registered User
Instead of having 3 carbon rods in an "A" formation, you can still use the carbon spar in one of the pre-cut holes. If you want a light build, then use the hole closest to the nose and you can cut in your motor mount area a little more. If you're looking for a heavier build, then use the rear hole. Then you can use two of the white rods on top and two on bottom, still making the "A" formation.
Feb 24, 2010, 06:04 PM
Mum is the word!

lol


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9PEfX78YZE
Feb 24, 2010, 08:14 PM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkz
Instead of having 3 carbon rods in an "A" formation, you can still use the carbon spar in one of the pre-cut holes. If you want a light build, then use the hole closest to the nose and you can cut in your motor mount area a little more. If you're looking for a heavier build, then use the rear hole. Then you can use two of the white rods on top and two on bottom, still making the "A" formation.
I was hesitant about the glass rods, I used them on the last build just as you described, and wow!!! Very stiff! Much stiffer then the flat stock, and much lighter then the arrow shaft.
Feb 25, 2010, 11:44 AM
Huh?! well waddayouknow!?
slackers!
Feb 25, 2010, 09:28 PM
Registered User
jpinn's Avatar

Demon build progress


I now understand the fiberglass rods after taking to CK on the phone, thanks for the help!
So they make a relative I beam with the foam. Instead of single carbon shafts through the wing, you install one rod in the top and one in the bottom. The one in the bottom goes all the way from root to tip. This was the first one I installed. The top ones go from the servo location to the tip, so I have not yet glued them in until I position my servos.

One question I had was about the motor placement and cutout. CK recommended using the front spar location (with the arc 28-47-1.5 motor). Then I lined up the snap off line on the engine mount and traced it. This seems to make a huge cutout for the motor. Please let me know if it looks right in the picture. I am afraid that there will be no space for an electronics bay behind the battery one. Could the electronics be placed to the sides?
thanks for the input.
Feb 25, 2010, 09:31 PM
Mum is the word!
Move the motor back am inch or so, even if you have to ad some nose weight she will rock.
Feb 26, 2010, 12:07 AM
Registered User
jpinn's Avatar
I moved the placement of the motor mount back by about an inch. It is now 9.5" from the nose to the front of the motor mount. I am only cutting out about 1.5" from the root for the motor cutout.

I will be glassing the front of the bottom section tonight with riteweave and PU for ultra strength.
Feb 26, 2010, 12:07 AM
Registered User
jpinn's Avatar
the updated lines are in green.


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