Why EPO for slope glider version? - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Nov 07, 2007, 11:03 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by aeajr
.... As far as sanding, I was thinking primarily about he mold marks... I don't think they hurt the flying performance, but many people were concerned about the quality of the finish. And, if I paint one of these again, I will likely want to sand off the nubs.

Likewise from a filler point of view. To get a smooth finish, that does not show, or at least minimizes the cell structure, I was thinking a filler would be a good step. Has anyone tried fillers for this purpose?

I have used light weight spackle on wood but I think this would flex too much and just pop the spackle out.

Ed
I have not seen anyone confirm here, but would also like to know, if lightweight spackle will adhere to the EPO. I've used it extensively on the regular GWS EPS foam, and it adheres well and doesn't crack or break out with normal flight flexing.

Can anyone confirm if this is the case with the more flexible EPO foam? I can see in some of the pics there are some deep foam injection circles in the various parts that I would want to fill and sand smooth with something!
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Nov 07, 2007, 11:08 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
... duplicate post deleted
Last edited by Tom Frank; Nov 07, 2007 at 11:08 PM. Reason: duplicate post
Nov 08, 2007, 01:15 AM
Registered User
kensp's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
I have not seen anyone confirm here, but would also like to know, if lightweight spackle will adhere to the EPO. I've used it extensively on the regular GWS EPS foam, and it adheres well and doesn't crack or break out with normal flight flexing.

Can anyone confirm if this is the case with the more flexible EPO foam? I can see in some of the pics there are some deep foam injection circles in the various parts that I would want to fill and sand smooth with something!
Tom

A picture is worth a thousand words so here are three photos. The mold marks are higher than the surface of the wing and can be easily be sanded back to level with the wing. So filler is not needed.

Ken
Last edited by kensp; Nov 08, 2007 at 05:04 AM.
Nov 08, 2007, 01:21 AM
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kensp's Avatar
Sorry Duplicate post.

Ken
Last edited by kensp; Nov 08, 2007 at 05:02 AM.
Nov 08, 2007, 04:44 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by kensp
Yes Chen.

I would love to get an EPO GWS Spitfire and an EPO Me 109 to replace my four year old models.

B.T.W. I have just tested Humbrol oil based enamel paint on the EPO GWS-40. I did not use primer but the paint has adhered very well. Humbrol has a very wide range of WWI and WWII Warbird colours. It has very good coverage so I think that one or two coats of thin sprayed Humbrol will be very light.

Ken
Ken,

It's another great advantage on EPO, it can be painted by
oil based enamel.

Chen
Nov 08, 2007, 11:10 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kensp
Tom

A picture is worth a thousand words so here are three photos. The mold marks are higher than the surface of the wing and can be easily be sanded back to level with the wing. So filler is not needed.

Ken
Looks great, Ken. So are all the mold marks above the surface then? That's different from most all my other GWS planes... some are above and some sunken in. What would you do if you seriously gouged the foam somewhere, like the wing LE, and needed to fill the repair to make it flush with the wing surface. Will lightweight spackle stick?

The EPO looks like interesting stuff.
Last edited by Tom Frank; Nov 08, 2007 at 11:15 AM. Reason: reread post...
Nov 08, 2007, 01:27 PM
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kensp's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
Looks great, Ken. So are all the mold marks above the surface then? That's different from most all my other GWS planes... some are above and some sunken in. What would you do if you seriously gouged the foam somewhere, like the wing LE, and needed to fill the repair to make it flush with the wing surface. Will lightweight spackle stick?

The EPO looks like interesting stuff.
Frank

One of the EPO GWS-40s wing pannels got a scratch mark on it before I started building. I poured some boiling water on the scratch mark and the mark went away. So it looks like dents in the foam can be repaired by heating with boiling water The same as is recommended for Mu;ltiplex Elapor.

Ken
Nov 08, 2007, 01:36 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kensp
Frank

One of the EPO GWS-40s wing pannels got a scratch mark on it before I started building. I poured some boiling water on the scratch mark and the mark went away. So it looks like dents in the foam can be repaired by heating with boiling water The same as is recommended for Mu;ltiplex Elapor.

Ken
Well that's good to know as well, at least for small dents and hanger rash!

But the original question remains... can it be patched with a filler like lightweight spackle if it becomes necessary? Lets say I fly into a tree and manage to gouge out and mangle a golf ball sized piece of foam from the leading edge (again! ), but this time it's EPO foam. And I can't find all the pieces that were gouged out, so some filling is needed for a smooth repair. Lightweight spackle has been my mainstay for this kind of work with regular GWS EPS foam. How would it work with EPO foam? Is there something better to use?

If you don't know, it's OK to say so.
Nov 08, 2007, 01:49 PM
Registered User
kensp's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
Well that's good to know as well, at least for small dents and hanger rash!

But the original question remains... can it be patched with a filler like lightweight spackle if it becomes necessary? Lets say I fly into a tree and manage to gouge out and mangle a golf ball sized piece of foam from the leading edge (again! ), but this time it's EPO foam. And I can't find all the pieces that were gouged out, so some filling is needed for a smooth repair. Lightweight spackle has been my mainstay for this kind of work with regular GWS EPS foam. How would it work with EPO foam? Is there something better to use?

If you don't know, it's OK to say so.
Tom

I have not bothered to try lightweight spackle because I do not think it will be needed.

I did fly my GWS T-6 into a tree and the only damage was a small mark on the paint. There was no dint or gouge in the foam.

I think that this foam would probably spring back, with only minor paint damage, after hitting a chain wire fence.

Ken
Nov 08, 2007, 02:06 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Incredibly tough stuff! I've not crashed any EPP planes, so I'm not used to having them just bounce, brush them off, and take off again!

I'll have to try the EPO when I need a new plane if they have what I want.
Nov 08, 2007, 02:27 PM
Registered User
kensp's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
Incredibly tough stuff! I've not crashed any EPP planes, so I'm not used to having them just bounce, brush them off, and take off again!

I'll have to try the EPO when I need a new plane if they have what I want.
Tom

Just how tough will only become apparent when someone crashes a 4 cell EPO GWS-15 at top speed. I doubt even EPO would survive that.

With a projected top speed of 45 MPH for my EPO GWS-40, I think that crash damage will be confined to the cowling, motor and wing servos.

Remember that the original purpose of this foam was to protect cyclist sculls during accidents.

B.T.W. Tom here is a photo of an uncut mold mark on the Tailplane of my EPO GWS-40.

Ken
Nov 08, 2007, 02:47 PM
Foam abuser!
crxmanpat's Avatar
I gotta say, the more I read, the more I'm becoming a fan of EPO planes from GWS. I will probably end up ordering one or more of these from Caliber in the near future.

Pat
Nov 08, 2007, 03:34 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kensp
Tom
...

Remember that the original purpose of this foam was to protect cyclist sculls during accidents...
Ken
Yes, I remember Mr. Lin saying that very early on. I just went to check out the foam in my bicycling helmet. It has some foam that extends down about 35-40 mm below the plastic shell in the back.... about 20 mm or so thick. It is hard as a rock, and stiff... no flexibility at all. I can just barely make a slight indent in it with my thumb pushing very hard and doubt I could snap off this foam with my bare hands. If this were conventional GWS EPS, I could make a serious impression in the foam with my thumb, and easily snap off the EPS.

I'm expecting the GWS formulation is not this dense to keep it light, and possibly a different foam formulation as well, but how deos the GWS EPO compare with this? Is it as flexible as EPP?
Nov 09, 2007, 12:49 PM
Ay up it's warped
mtbrider's Avatar
Quote:
Remember that the original purpose of this foam was to protect cyclist sculls during accidents
In that case it must be good stuff used mine a few times, unfortunately, and the helmets are pretty light.
Nov 12, 2007, 12:18 PM
Houng-wen Lin
GWS4CEO's Avatar
Shall we offer RTF EPO SG version?

So, we build, you fly!


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