** Blu-Baby Primary Trainer ** Plans, Pics and Fun! - Page 1387 - RC Groups
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Dec 06, 2017, 06:33 PM
looking up, down under
scruffy1's Avatar
+1 to a computer radio as a great investment

personally at the moment if i was up for a new first radio, i would be very tempted by this one

pretty much every major protocol covered :
*Support for multiple protocols without any modifications to the transmitter:
Cyprus: CYR6936: DSM/DSMX, JR Pro, Walkera DEVO
Texas Instruments: CC2500: Frsky, Futaba SFHSS
Amiccom: A7105: Flysky AFHDS2A, Hubsan
Nordic Semiconductor: NRF24L01: Hisky, Syma, Assan and most other Chinese models.

for under us$80 delivered (on the same slow boat that might send you a motor) it's all the radio a noob could need for a long time

anyone who has spent time in a nintendo or other gaming box would recognise the form factor of the controller

next step up would be the taranis qx7, but you'll need to add amultimodule to get the diversity of receivers that the first transmitter supplies built in

the world of r/c has gone really impressively capable for budget buyers in the last half decade since frsky shook it up
Last edited by scruffy1; Dec 09, 2017 at 04:25 AM.
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Dec 09, 2017, 02:35 AM
Mark Harrison
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacky's Boy
The weather was right and I managed to find a couple hours to get out and maiden my Blue Baby42. And let me say, it did NOT disappoint!!

That was by far one of the easiest maidens I've done of a scratch built plane. It just took right off. I did get a tad bit of porposing but I think that may be just because it was a bit nose heavy. I also think I may need a tad of down thrust. But as it is, I'm very happy with the outcome.

Here's a video with polyhedral wings. In the video I kept screwing up which type was which. But now I got it straight!

https://youtu.be/WAU8VWU_RLk

I have another video with the "stock" dihedral wings that'll I'll attach to this thread as soon as it's done processing

And here it is:
https://youtu.be/XcQLGyPN3pQ

Edit to add: I mention the wing size briefly in the video but here's a full description
KFm3, 42" wingspan, 9.75" Chord
That's for both the polyhedral and dihedral wings
Nicely done!
Dec 11, 2017, 03:24 PM
Registered User
Your B/B is flying nicely
Dec 11, 2017, 08:11 PM
Registered User

Thanks! Now for the glue...


Hi again everyone--

First, many thanks for all the various advice about first-time Blu-Baby decisions, motor and prop selection, etc. Forums like this are great - this is all very helpful!

One final question for now: What kind of glue are people using for the foam? I find the foam sheets here at Dollar Tree for a dollar a sheet, as recommended elsewhere in this thread; this seems like a really good source, especially as the first plane(s) I expect will not survive long. The paper of the DT foam peels off very cleanly, leaving perfect nice clean flat structural foam.

I've seen mention about foaming polyurethane glue; wondering if there's some common brand everybody uses that's easy to find at hardware stores, etc.

--dc
Dec 11, 2017, 08:50 PM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Gorilla glue white. 2 oz bottle, available at Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc. The best is if you can get the 50% off coupons from Michaels Craft stores and get it for $2.50 a bottle. Remember the first time you use it you WILL use too much! May want to try some on scrap to get a feel for the amount of foaming that goes on. Masking tape can force the expansion to the inside of the fuse where it forms a fillet and adds strength.
Dec 11, 2017, 08:56 PM
Multirotor Enthusiast
Blacky's Boy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by springer
Gorilla glue white. 2 oz bottle, available at Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc. The best is if you can get the 50% off coupons from Michaels Craft stores and get it for $2.50 a bottle. Remember the first time you use it you WILL use too much! May want to try some on scrap to get a feel for the amount of foaming that goes on. Masking tape can force the expansion to the inside of the fuse where it forms a fillet and adds strength.
What he said! ^^^^^^^^

All awesome advice.
Dec 11, 2017, 08:56 PM
looking up, down under
scruffy1's Avatar
i have had good experiences with both foam-cure (from hobbyking) and multihesive, a local australian brand of styrene based glue

the former "strings" quite impressively into cobwebs when you separate the parts as suggested to allow them to dry somewhat before re-applying the surfaces - it's a classic contact adhesive situation - but when you touch the surfaces together after ~ 3-5 minutes of waiting, it's instant action

the multihesive is like pva (white glue) except it sticks pretty much anything to anything, but takes ages to dry as that needs air, so big flat areas whilst strong eventually, are slow to finally cure

haven't tried gorilla glue, but the foaming sounds to be a complication for my style of construction
Dec 11, 2017, 09:59 PM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
Springer already showed the best choice for glue, to go with it you want to have a plant spritzer so you can put a fine coating of water droplets on the foam first and some flexible plastic spreaders. I cut the spreaders from plastic snap on can lids.

Then you dribble thin streams an inch or so apart on the wetted area and use a flexible plastic spreader to spread the glue, mix it with the water, and force it down into the pores (if any) of the foam.

I do all that on the one of the two pieces of foam, then I give the other piece a little spritzing and lay it on the other one. Then a board or boards are used to spread the weight and I use a collection of old batteries and other stuff to weight down the boards that are on the top piece.

You can pick off some of the ooze out in 10-15 minutes or the next day.

Posts #2 and #4 in this thread show the process and equipment I use:

Building a 32" KFm3 Flat Wing w/Ailerons - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1335888

The brown colored Gorilla glue that comes in a bigger bottle works good too, use the same process. It just takes it overnight to set up. With the Gorilla Quick glue you only have to wait 20-30 minutes and you can move on to the next step.

Jack
Dec 12, 2017, 02:04 PM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
To add to Jack's comment, This time of year (in the northern hemisphere at least) the inside low humidity slows the cure so as he said, a bit of water spritzed on one surface can speed it up. I can usually work on the wing, glue it, switch to the fuse, glue it, and go back to the wing. essentially continuous work.

You will definitely want to use clamps or weights - weights for laminating, but use some tape or pins to keep parts from shifting - GG is like grease before it 's cured. For edge joints or T joints tape or pins and tape are fine. The foaming action has limited strength in the White GG, so you can force it the way you want it with a little practice. The original brown would bow laminations and other stuff if It wasn't held down well. That's one reason I use the white exclusively for foam.
Dec 13, 2017, 11:25 AM
Registered User

re: glue, etc...


Okay - picked up some of the Gorilla Glue today - thanks again for the many tips and fast responses!

--dc
Dec 13, 2017, 03:18 PM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
And I sort of forgot about the shifting problem until springer mentioned it.

On the flat wing parts I deal with that by laying the parts in place before I glue them and making a couple of marks along the overlap with a permanent marking pen for alignment. Then when the boards and weight are added at the end I check those marks to see if they are still aligned right.

The tip of the marker is big enough that it will mark on both pieces in the "L" at the overlap and I can see by a gap in the ink line or misalignment in the length of the marks that something has shifted.

My table is level and I've never had a problem with the flat parts in the wing layers shifting around after they have been weighted.

I have a collection of dead 6V and 12V dry cell batteries from UPS units and emergency lighting units and those are my primary weights. They are clean, no mess or leakage has ever happened, so they work good.

Jack
Dec 13, 2017, 08:10 PM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
Yep, Jack, credit to you on the UPS batteries... I use some old batteries from APC units. One did crack on me but no leakage. They are heavy and work well.
Dec 13, 2017, 09:10 PM
Ken's CAD Models
dz1sfb's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruff1
Yep, Jack, credit to you on the UPS batteries... I use some old batteries from APC units. One did crack on me but no leakage. They are heavy and work well.
I knew those things would be good for something, Never thought to use them as weights. Got a couple from UPS units.

Ken
Latest blog entry: Ken's CAD Models new web site
Dec 13, 2017, 10:10 PM
looking up, down under
scruffy1's Avatar
i favour 440gm cans of diced tomatoes, or beans, or.... booze bottles
Dec 14, 2017, 09:09 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
And I have a stack of GI ammo cans in the basement too, those are in the more narrow 7.62mm and 5.56mm size and also in the bigger, wider, and heavier .50 Caliber size and most of them have metal or other things that give them a good amount of weight. So when I stack one or two of those on a 3/4" hardwood board over two layers of FFF it really keeps things flat and in good contact.

Baking parchment or wax paper is good for keeping from accidentally gluing your wing to the board used for weight! That will really ruin your day!

And small clamps like these for Harbor Freight and pieces of yardstick or tongue depressors are great for clamping bits and pieces here and there.

Jack


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