Dumas 19ft Racing Runabout - Page 4 - RC Groups
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May 07, 2007, 10:46 PM
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I was continuing to work on the metal fittings; the gas cap and exhaust port turned out pretty good. I started on the bow light and I seemed to have sanded off all of the "chrome". It is now a copper color! ugh!

I was wondering if there are suitable metal replacements for these fittings?
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May 07, 2007, 10:59 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
You could try your hand at chrome plating:

May 08, 2007, 09:31 AM
Registered User
Jon S's Avatar
I did the same thing with some of my fittings. I used white polishing compound and found that I just had to keep polishing until I got through the copper plate. The final result doesn't exactly match the original chrome plate, but looks much better than having the casting flash all over. I then sprayed some krylon on to help to keep the corrosion at bay. Good luck!

Jon S
May 08, 2007, 12:03 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
Plating: Also try www.micromark.com, search on "plating". About $45 each for chrome, nickel, and copper plating. (Anyone know how to make the wand so as to only buy the solution?)

Copper is needed as a base over pot metal before applying either chrome or nickel, in case you happen to work through the existing copper layer.
Copper also takes nicely to buffing- and whatever surface you have at that level is what you get after adding the harder nickel or chrome layer.
May 08, 2007, 12:40 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
Pat, those kits sold by Micromark are in fact Caswell's "Plug N Plate" kits.

The wand is just a metal tube, flattened at one end. The banana plug goes into the end of the wand, the other clip is attached to the part. The cotton cloth is wrapped around the flattened part of the wand and dipped into the plating solution and then the part to be plated is rubbed over with the wand.

I have plated some brass with the nickel and it did not need to be plated with copper first. These pics show my first ever attempt at plating, using the wand. I have since learned it is better to dip the whole part, and just don't worry about being stingy with the solution.
May 08, 2007, 12:54 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
I read a few posts here and there about kits from Texas Platers Supply... no website, but this guy sells the kits:

$13.50 for nickel + copper kit! One is on the way...

May 08, 2007, 01:10 PM
Obviously I'm a "Minus Member"
buzzltyr's Avatar
Pat, I hope you'll post up about how it works (with pics!). Eventually I'm going to have to deal with the lead fittings for my Sterling Corvette, and they are in pretty rough shape. Knowing nothing about plating, I'd truly enjoy seeing how it is done, and whether these kits provide a decent end product.

May 08, 2007, 05:59 PM
Registered User
Great info everyone--I think I'll see what it looks like when I continue to polish on it to remove the copper. If all else fails, time to re-plate!

I'm still waiting for my running hardware from MACK to show up--any day now!
May 08, 2007, 09:25 PM
Registered User
The motor and propeller arrived today. Ordered from offshoreelectrics; good site and excellent service; shipping was really fast.

This may or may not be the ideal setup; but if all else fails it will be a good learning experience. The motor is a Speed 600BB (as can be seen in the photo) and the Prop a two bladed Octura X432 (hopefully not too much prop).

Question--does this particular motor require any additional capacitors? I am assuming the two green components installed between the motor leads and casing are caps.

I also finished up applying the necessary wood filler to any imperfections on the side mahogany. I think it turned out pretty well--it does look almost "sheeted" as mentioned in Pat Tritle's build of this boat.
May 08, 2007, 09:48 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
No extra caps should be necessary. Your boat is going to haul a##!
May 09, 2007, 09:51 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
Harumph. From the attached picture, I see that Dumas' deck planking is about 2x too wide... 3/8" wide, ought to be closer to 3/16" to give an appearance like the real thing...

Pat M
May 09, 2007, 10:50 PM
Good eye patmat. I was happy with Dumas's treatment of the decks. I think at 1/8 scale the additional seams would look strange. Chris Craft used dummy seams to add white stripes. I think there are 2 dummy seams in each deck plank, so every third stripe is a live seam.
May 10, 2007, 01:21 AM
Registered User
Thats right... the foredecks I believe are the king plank and then two boards on either side with most 'seams' between the thinner, simulated planks lightly routed and painted... only a few are actual seams as you point out... this obviously is easier to manufacture and helps with grain and color matching between "planks".
May 12, 2007, 01:52 PM
Registered User
So, good news...the MACK running hardware came friday! I have the rudder tube and block installed; working on getting the stuffing box all lined up and ready for install. I will get some pictures of it up soon.

The MACK hardware is definitely first rate. I also got a rudder, which is awesome, however it is slightly oversize (compared to the full size drawings). Other than a little extra weight, I am hoping it will not cause a problem.
May 12, 2007, 08:59 PM
I like boats
Deestingray's Avatar
Hey Mcfly, lovely build you have there, I have been following this thread for a while. With your rudder being a little large can lead to a couple of handling issues. I found this out with my equipage riviera where at speed on a full lock turn it picks up the rear end and does a 180 really quickly which on one occasion somehow the boat ended upsidedown. I have also read somewhere that an oversized rudder will also aid in washing off speed and make the motor work harder than it should. Other than that, if it isn't going to go very fast (which doesn't look that way) than it should be all good

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