The Color of Teak - RC Groups
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Apr 14, 2007, 12:26 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar

The Color of Teak

My wife's Lord & Taylor catalog came today... don't ask why I looked inside but I did, and found a nice primer on teak and joggling!

Forget the girl in the attached, but note the color and LACK OF FINISH on the teak deck. I see so many models with glossy varnished wood decks- don't do that! The wood should be left to weather, and for teak, it's this shade of gray. This surface is also great for traction with bare feet on wet decks. Leave the varnish for the mahogany trim.

Also see how the planks are "joggled" into the wide king plank (center) and the margin planks. This is standard practice for yachts, with the planks following the line of the gunwale. Work boats and men o'war, when planked, typically lay the planks parallel to the king plank- but still joggle where they meet the margin plank, say near the bow.

Another picture in the catalog revealed that this is the "Exact", Fort Lauderdale, a 75' 1965 Trumpy. She (the boat) can be had for a million three.

Pat M
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Apr 14, 2007, 12:31 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
And why joggle? Boy it's a lot of work!

It's bad form, though I haven't figured out exactly why, to taper plank ends to a sharp point.

Apr 14, 2007, 12:59 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
And how to actually joggle? I've only done it once, for the Valdivia, but I can tell you it takes a sharp micro chisel and a few pounds of patience!

It's described in detail in Valdivia's instructions, , starting at p.17 (German instructions with pictures) and p.95 in the English text-only section.
Warning: 3.7 MB file...

Pat M
Apr 14, 2007, 01:21 PM
no wings any more, just dust!
Ghost 2501's Avatar
if i were to use thin planking to say do the deck of Espirit or Yamato, what timber would you recommend?
Apr 14, 2007, 01:42 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
For small scale models, don't use mahogany or teak, the grain is too big and open- it doesn't look scale, and it's brittle. I used basswood (I think same as "lime" in the UK?), and stained it. See
But note the reason I stained it so dark!

Apr 14, 2007, 03:46 PM
NeverAgainVolunteerYourse lf
nick_75au's Avatar

Jogging planks

On the full size boats, the reason for the jogging is to prevent splinters to the poor boat owner but it mainly is a point for the wood to split, the boats I work on dont jog the planks but rather put a 10-20 mm radius on the end of the plank if it would end up in a point, these arn't proper decks but a 10 mm thick "sheet" made up of teak planks, and sika-flex, they make them up off the boat then stick the whole sheet onto the fibreglass deck of the boat. The teak is sanded to a smooth finish and thats it, after a few months it turns to the greyish colour. Sometimes the owner will get it sanded every year to bring it back to its natural state.
Apr 14, 2007, 07:32 PM
Registered User
RhumbLine's Avatar
Then there is always the "Holy Stone" method Some owners and Crews use a lite oxalic acid (some Toilet bowl Cleaners) to clean them. My first ship had wood decks over steel. When we were inport it was every Fridays business to "wash" the decks. As long as you start with a wet deck, use the crystal version of oxalix acid to control the dust and fine powder, scrub it with a stiff brush, and flush it thoroughly, it won't harm the painted finish. They come out very nice and prevent sanding for several years at a time. It also removes running rust


WAGB 281
Apr 15, 2007, 09:17 AM
r/c ships and workboats
Pat, you are correct when you say most modelers have a glossy deck on planked decks. Although it looks good, you would not find me standing on a real deack that way ( especially wet). When I did a restoration to a Dauntless I was given, I finished with several coats of poly gloss. After I got to the finished smooth look, I wet sanded the deck down to a dull-no gloss look. Looks better, and the wood stays preserved.
Apr 15, 2007, 01:51 PM
floating and flying
misfitsailor's Avatar
I have had boats (1:1 scale) with teak decks, and can tell you that you would never stop falling upon your arse if you were to varnish the deck. I can also tell you that a teak deck, although pretty, makes for an inferno below decks under a hot summer sun.

I can tell you from my time as a boatwright that the reason for joggling is to keep full control of the plank ends. If a plank is made too tapered and "pointy" at the end, you can not fasten it well enough to keep the end from warping, splitting, curling, ect. There are rules of proportion used in proper joggling, and it is a bear to do at any scale. The laying out of a kingplank itself is an art.

Keep in mind that joggling is used for pleasure craft; workboats are not often afflicted with complex decking schemes. The number one mistake I see in model boat deck planking is the improper staggering of plank butts.
Apr 15, 2007, 08:22 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
Staggered butt-ends: Should be obvious that this makes good structural sense when the wood deck is actually as much a part of the hull's structure as the hull planking. Butt-ends are located over deck beams; never put them next to each other- indeed, patterns are set with a minimum of two, sometimes three or four, full planks between each butt.

But- when planks are laid on a steel deck, either for looks, tradition, or alleged insulating benefit, it doesn't matter structurally... but I still don't think anyone would locate butt-ends next to each other, just because it looks wrong!
In this case, studs are welded to the deck, and nuts are used in counterbored holes in the plank, followed by hole plugs. In a modern wood ship, it may be a screw through the plank, followed by the plug. In an old-timer, a simple hole is bored through plank and beam, and a wooden "tree nail" or "trunnell" is pounded in. Either way, you'll see plugs, as in the attached image- don't use black dots on your model!

Question: If the planks are angling across a beam, do you make the cuts parallel with the beam, or 90 to the planks (i.e., angled to the beam)?

Dec 12, 2008, 03:08 AM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
craig_c's Avatar
Last edited by craig_c; Sep 02, 2010 at 12:39 AM.
Dec 12, 2008, 03:38 AM
Registered User
Archibald H.'s Avatar
Hi all,
Perhaps this is a good guide and in plain English as well.

Jan 20, 2009, 08:12 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
Some more teak pictures, thanks to a posting at Steelnavy.
At least I think it's teak on US warships???
Feb 10, 2009, 10:27 AM
Registered User
worked for a boat yard for a summer and a marina for two winters and most people with teak decking and trim used Teak Brite for their decks, not sure exactly what was in it went on like Ajax cleanser; scrub it in with a deck brush and rinse the hell out of it, wait a day or so wet it very lightly, and scrub it again and rinse a second time, usually got the damned stuff off the deck finally! It did a hell of a job on fiberglass though you had to be careful on the gellcoat if you really went off on it even took the oily crud off the waterline(s) when you were scrubbing the hulls while in the water (that was some nice money for a high school kid if you were willing to swim in the Oakland estuary!).
Feb 10, 2009, 10:38 AM
Registered User
Looked at the pic of Rochester with the untensioned highline passing back empty ammo cans (would have to be empty they wouldn't handle full ones like that) always loved seamanship details like that, net too heavy? get another fifteen guys on the tension line. These days they use a ram tensioned steel cable and a trolley to move cargo like that or VERTREP it (Veritcal Replentishment i.e. nets under a heliocopeter), not nearly as much of a challenge although they still do practice it occasionally.

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