Logictech LTG-2100T Gyro setup guide - RC Groups
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Apr 12, 2007, 02:15 PM
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Logictech LTG-2100T Gyro setup guide


Logictech LTG-2100T Gyro setup guide
(most sections apply to other gyros as well)

Check with your LHS for stocks or www.radiocontrol-sports.com

Recommended servos for LTG-2100T
Mini helis - Futaba S3154 digital micro servo
Standard size helis - LTG-6100G Digital high speed servo(0.05s)

Install the gyro on a suitable flat platform on the helicopter's frame as indicated in the instruction sheet.

Take note to use a suitable mounting tape, the tape that comes with the gyro works best on most surfaces. You can experiment with different tapes if deem necessary. When securing down the gyro leads, do leave a bit of slack in the leads. The leads MUST NOT be strained as this will transmit any frame vibrations to the gyro, reducing it's effectiveness in yaw sensing accuracy.

All connections to be hooked up as indicated in the instruction sheet as well. Most flyers don't have misunderstanding in this area.

As different radio manufacturers uses different channels for the rudder and gain, I will term them as follows:

Rudder/tail - TAIL channel
Gain/Gyro - GAIN Channel

Please go thru your radio's instruction manuals to ensure it's clear before we proceed.

***Disregard the broken tail part, I just crashed it....***

Switch on the radio and neutral the TAIL channel.

Adjust the GAIN value on your radio's appropriate channel until the green LED on the gyro is OFF and the RED LED is at the 1st or 2nd position from the left.
Make sure the Revo-mix is OFF or INH.

We must go thru the mechanical setup first.

General heli's tail rotation is upwards, sweeping into the main rotor's downwash.


At this point, your servo should be in it's neutral position.
Mount your servo horn perpendicular to the tail pushrod.


Before we proceed further, let's go thru the servo selection feature for LTG-2100T.
Get into gyro setup by pressing the MENU button and holding on to it until the LED goes to the first setting. Let go. You will see the green LED at SERVO SPEED and a red LED above.

The rudder stick is used to shift the red LED left and right to desired positions for setup. Experiment with it and you will understand immediately.

To change move the red LED to the suitable position, hold the rudder stick one direction or the other and press the MENU button once. You will notice the red LED shift a position.(if not, hold the other direction and press the button). Choose the suitable servo type selection





Once the suitable servo type is selected, neutral your rudder stick and press the MENU button. You will notice the green LED will shift down to ROTATE RATE. Same thing goes, but set it to the slowest for inital tests first.
You can use it to fine tune to desired likings after everything is done.


Now exit gyro setup by simply neutral rudder stick and don't touch the gyro. It will exit in a couple of seconds. You will notice it will go back to the gain indication screen as when you just initialise it.

Now let's take a look at the tail rotor's action.

With everything hooked up, push the rudder stick to the Left


Push the rudder stick to the right


This pictures are taken on the mini titan, please note that the tail blade is the thing to look at, the pitch slider's position may be different for other helis.
If the tail blades actions you see on your heli is opposite, REVERSE the TAIL channel.

In neutral state, the tail blades will have a bit of an angle, eg 10 degrees



In order to get the neutral state tail blades angle more or less in the ballpark, adjust by sliding the tail boom servo mount forward or aft. Alternatively, you can also adjust the pushrod ball links.(for frame mounted tail servo, this is the only option)





Now check that your gyro sensing is in the correct direction.
Leave the transmitter alone now.
Hold the tail and move it to it's left, you should notice the tail blades will tend to angle towards Full LEFT.
Hold the tail and move it to it's right, you should notice the tail blades will tend to angle towards Full RIGHT.

If it's behaving the correct way, leave it alone.
If it is opposite, we will need to reverse the gyro sensing.
Enter gyro setup just like before, press and hold MENU button for a few seconds, until it enters setup mode. Let go and press repeatedly until the green LED gets to DIRECTION.
Use rudder stick to move the red LED to the 'other' position. Gyro sensing direction is changed.


Exit gyro setup mode.

Your throttle curve is expected to be capable of maintaining reasonable headspeed for good hovering.

Do a test hover and watch out for the tail, it is very likely to drift to either direction. Land and adjust the servo mount/ball links and test hover again.
Repeat this process as many times as required to get a close to perfect mechanical neutral so you can hover without the tail drifting. The better you can achieve this at this stage, the better your tail will work.

Now that the mechanical setup is done, let's proceed to utilise the feature function of the LogicTech gyros - Servo Limit

The left and right servo limits for LogicTech gyros are INDEPENDENTLY adjustable, unlike most other gyros. This allows you to maximise performance out of your available tail travel. Doesn't have to leave an 'empty' travel which other gyros can't use.

Ensure your TAIL channel's Endpoint/EPA/ATV/Travel/etc are max out for this step.

Enter gyro setup mode. (I think we have done it enough times to get familiar by now)
Go to SERVO LIMIT (Green LED should be at SERVO LIMIT)
You will notice there will be no red LED at this stage.


Now move the rudder stick gradually to the left, Watch the tail slider.
Once the tail slider touches the end, the rudder stick may not be at it's end yet. This is OK, stop moving the rudder stick and hold it at that position. Now press the MENU button once. You will notice one red LED will light up on one end. This means that the gyro has already registered that position as it's operating limit. You may see the LED is on the other end for your gyro but it's ok. We're not done yet!



Now, move the rudder stick to the right, same thing, watch the tail slider.
Once the tail slider touches the end, the rudder stick may not be at it's end yet. This is OK, stop moving the rudder stick and hold it at that position. Now press the MENU button once. You will notice the red LED will light up on the opposite end. This means that the gyro has already registered that position as it's 'other' operating limit.



Exit gyro setup mode.

Now, try moving the rudder sticks all the way to it's ends, you will see the servo will stop at the registered spot and not push further.
Again I will just mention again. The gyro has now 'memorised' the two ends' independent travel limits.

It will be a good idea to reduce the TAIL channel's Endpoint/EPA/ATV/Travel/etc now, this gyro doesn't just give you a solid hold, but will give you a very powerful piro speed at full!
No no no... not now yet!

Ok, up to this stage the gyro is more or less set. We need to turn our attention to the radio's setup.

For most gyros, you may be changing the value of the gyro GAIN in your radio and trial and error till you get to what you want. Most commonly, all you have is a LED on or off (or change of colours)to tell you if it's in heading hold mode or not.

How would you know of the ACTUAL GYRO's GAIN?

True enough, leading brands calibrates their own radios and gyros to get a very close match so you will more or less 'accurate' input. or rather what u think is accurate. What happens when you mix them? eg brand-X radio with brand-Z gyro, brand-Z radio with brand-Y gyro, etc....

To reduce the guesswork involved, LogicTech LTG-2100T incoporates a row of LEDs to indicate what is the gain that the gyro is actually 'seeing'

TL LED off - normal mode
TL LED on - TAIL LOCK mode

1st LED - 1 to 30 %
2nd LED - 31 to 40 %
3rd LED - 41 to 50 %
4th LED - 51 to 60 %
5th LED - 61 to 70 %
6th LED - 71 to 80 %
7th LED - 81 to 90 %
8th LED - 91 to 100%



















Adjust the GAIN value in your radio and see the actual LED indication until you get the desired holding power you want for the tail.
Don't forget you still have the ROTATE RATE settings to finetune the heli's tail behaviour to your liking!

Experiment around and awake the potential of LTG-2100T :up

*the GAIN channel endpoints can actually be adjusted so that the radio values and the actual gyro values are close to perfectly matched*

Do let me know if there are anymore things which require clarification, I will add in accordingly to requests.

__________________
Radio Control Sports
Ken
Last edited by ammo; Nov 24, 2007 at 07:42 PM.
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Apr 12, 2007, 02:30 PM
R/C Junkie
Sonex128's Avatar
Thanks! Been looking to try one of these soon.


Brian Bland
Apr 12, 2007, 02:33 PM
Registered User
No problem, i had it in Singapore's forum for a while and thought it would help more people here as well
Apr 12, 2007, 02:57 PM
Heli Addict....
Ecaf's Avatar
This guide works great, I used it to set up mine.

IMHO should be a sticky right next to the 401.

Thanks Ammo for posting it here.
Apr 13, 2007, 03:01 AM
Registered User
celter's Avatar
I have ordered this gyro and have a question. I hear it is not rated for 6V. Does that mean that I need a step down regulator from my Align 35A ESC?
Apr 13, 2007, 03:54 AM
Registered User
It is not recommended to run 6V.

You might want to check your ESC's BEC output voltage. Most are lower than what they claim, so you might actually be pretty safe
Apr 13, 2007, 04:15 AM
How high does it go?..duh
Pigs dont fly's Avatar
Great job ammo, this is a great guide and should be made a sticky.
Apr 13, 2007, 06:38 AM
Registered User
celter's Avatar
Thanks Ammo, I'll check the output, and by the way, thanks for a great guide.
Apr 13, 2007, 05:51 PM
Everyone crashes sometime
quickster47's Avatar
Hey ammo,

What a great contribution and well done. Thanks for taking the time to post all the information. Wish this was available when I first got mine two months ago. But better late than never.

Carl
Apr 14, 2007, 08:40 AM
Registered User
Thanks guys, it's a new gyro with new programming capabilities, so I hope this guide will help all my customers and dealers with their setups.
Apr 19, 2007, 05:02 PM
Registered User
LuckyDuc's Avatar
I just received my new 2100 yesterday. I'm very happy with what I have seen so far. Nice programming interface.

I set it up and trimmed the rudder in "normal" mode. When I got it trimmed in normal mode I then set the trim for all of my flight modes to this trim setting.
I set my remote gain to "TL" in all modes and did some test flying. I did numerous pitch pumps, climb outs, and tic-tocs. The tail held as good, if not better than the 401. BTW I'm using a HS-50 on the tail.

Couple of quick questions.

I have an Airtronics RD6000 super Tx.
What should I choose for the Tx when programming the gyro? I left the factory settings for that

I have also noticed that the rate speed setting doesn't seem to increase the piro speed for me. I have it set all the way to the right, and the piros are much slower than what I was able to get with the 401. What should I do to increase the piro rate?

Also, while the tail holds very nicely during aggressive collective movements I have a slight drift to the right when hovering. What should I do to correct this?

Thanks!
Apr 19, 2007, 07:18 PM
Heli Addict....
Ecaf's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyDuc
I have also noticed that the rate speed setting doesn't seem to increase the piro speed for me. I have it set all the way to the right, and the piros are much slower than what I was able to get with the 401. What should I do to increase the piro rate?

Also, while the tail holds very nicely during aggressive collective movements I have a slight drift to the right when hovering. What should I do to correct this?

Thanks!
I cranked my endpoints to 140%, used the left right endpoint on the gyro for setting throw and it worked great. Just as fast as the 401. I used Truthunter's -10% expo on the TX to help tame it a little bit.

Interesting on the hovering. You say you set it up for trim in normal mode. Do you mean mechanically or moving the trim setting on the TX?

When I had mine slightly out of mechanical center, it would drive slightly. Otherwise it was fine.

Dunno.
Apr 19, 2007, 07:52 PM
Registered User
LuckyDuc's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecaf
I cranked my endpoints to 140%, used the left right endpoint on the gyro for setting throw and it worked great. Just as fast as the 401. I used Truthunter's -10% expo on the TX to help tame it a little bit.

Interesting on the hovering. You say you set it up for trim in normal mode. Do you mean mechanically or moving the trim setting on the TX?

When I had mine slightly out of mechanical center, it would drive slightly. Otherwise it was fine.

Dunno.
I didn't crank the EPA to 140%. They are set to 100%. I'll give that a try.

When I trimmed in normal mode I used the TX trim. It didn't need much (-11)

Is it bad to use the TX's trim settings to get a lock in rate mode
Apr 19, 2007, 08:04 PM
Mom says I'm special...
beafraid8's Avatar
Can't hurt to back 'em off and just get it perfect mechanically...though it is a pain...
Apr 19, 2007, 09:12 PM
Registered User
LuckyDuc's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by beafraid8
Can't hurt to back 'em off and just get it perfect mechanically...though it is a pain...
I guess I'll try that if no one else has any suggestions. What is the point of having rudder trim if you can't use it.


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