Jun 24, 2011, 02:22 AM
Flyboys Singapore
romihensem's Avatar

hmmm


sorry heres the vid to the 2 retarct door mechanism i'm referring to...

MIG-21 landing gear doors (7 min 37 sec)


RCLander F2B & F16 modified gear doors system.wmv (1 min 30 sec)
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Jun 24, 2011, 07:32 AM
(TechDad) Bob Templeton
T3chDad's Avatar
Nice job Simon! Well done. I've only got about 15 flights on mine.
Latest blog entry: I've been flying!
Jun 24, 2011, 07:35 AM
Flyboys Singapore
romihensem's Avatar

hmmm


after 3 days of 2 hrs each trying to fix the gear doors mechanism, i have finally given up and set on just baring it open. i have come to a conclusion for me that i either need a higher torque servo for the retracts or by adding additional servo for the door which both i opted out of.

btw, need yr kind assist on a question. i'm now using 3 servos for my retracts, 2 for ailerons, 1 for elevator and 1 for steering. do i need a separate bec for this setup? i know that anything more than 4 servos recommends u to use a bec but i'm not sure do i need one since the 3 retracts servos will not be used often. basically just to on and off....
Jun 24, 2011, 11:05 AM
(TechDad) Bob Templeton
T3chDad's Avatar
I would use a separate BEC. Even though the retract servos won't be used that often, they have the potential to have the most current draw. I wouldn't want to hit my retract switch and then have a brown-out as a result. Better safe than sorry after all the hard work you've put into it. It's definitely worth the $20-30 for peace of mind IMO...
Latest blog entry: I've been flying!
Jun 24, 2011, 11:19 AM
A posse ad esse
I concur with this advice 100%. In my opinion, a separate BEC is necessary. Weight is an issue, but is something best considered in the initial planning stages of any particular model to be built.

I like your work. You have put a lot of thought and effort into your model and it shows.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T3chDad View Post
I would use a separate BEC. Even though the retract servos won't be used that often, they have the potential to have the most current draw. I wouldn't want to hit my retract switch and then have a brown-out as a result. Better safe than sorry after all the hard work you've put into it. It's definitely worth the $20-30 for peace of mind IMO...
Jun 24, 2011, 07:34 PM
Flyboys Singapore
romihensem's Avatar

hmmm


thnx guys. looks like bec is the way to go. another quick question will a 3A bec be adequate?

@techdad, i was actually scared of that scenario too. retract switch will also act loike a suicide switch

@drabbit, thanx for the comp bro. just trying my best on this one. lots of patience needed on the sanding though but i think i'm still far from having the patience and skills needed... hehehe
Jun 25, 2011, 03:02 PM
Kiss the Sky
electriceye's Avatar
Very nice build and informative video. Keep up the good work and very best of luck to you. Looking good so far!! I have wanted to add some retracts to 1 or 2 of my belly floppers for a while so this type of info is very helpful. Apologies if you have already stated earlier, but what type/size of Retract and wheels are you using on your Mig? Thanks.
Jun 25, 2011, 07:43 PM
Flyboys Singapore
romihensem's Avatar

hmmm


oh oh... now i'm feeling a bit embarassed. so sorry guys but the 2 video of the mig and f16 doesnt belong to me. i scout it on the internet for retract ideas. and all this while i thought drabbit was referring to my plane. lol
Jun 26, 2011, 01:26 AM
Registered User
JMSR's Avatar
Had a good weekend spackling and sanding and spackling and sanding spackling and sanding.... just about done. Sneak peak time.
Jun 26, 2011, 01:50 AM
Flyboys Singapore
romihensem's Avatar

hmmm


wow nice curves jmsr... looking really nice and sleek. so u going for twin setup with tv i presume. which skin are u going to put on this baby...
Jun 26, 2011, 02:45 AM
Registered User
JMSR's Avatar
Thanks man, I'm going to glass it. I'm saving a lot of weight with the set up, so I figured why not.
Jun 30, 2011, 03:36 AM
rcflyer
Once you start sanding this thing really looks good!
Jun 30, 2011, 06:57 AM
(TechDad) Bob Templeton
T3chDad's Avatar
Nice job JMSR! That's a really professional job.
Latest blog entry: I've been flying!
Jun 30, 2011, 10:01 AM
rcflyer
The inlet diverter triangles are stuck to another 3mm piece, when stuck to the nacelle top bit/fuse is the triangle on top/bottom facing towards the front or back? And is the 6mm piece glued on top of that inside the nacelle or what???
Thanks
Jim
Jun 30, 2011, 10:17 AM
(TechDad) Bob Templeton
T3chDad's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjim11 View Post
The inlet diverter triangles are stuck to another 3mm piece, when stuck to the nacelle top bit/fuse is the triangle on top/bottom facing towards the front or back? And is the 6mm piece glued on top of that inside the nacelle or what???
Thanks
Jim
Front...see this explanation.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1871

6mm piece is glued behind it (more inside). It should almost be flush. I'll get a picture for you at lunch...
Latest blog entry: I've been flying!


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