My mount was all out of whack too. Instead of down and to the right it was up and left. I had to flip it over then it lined up right. What I did on the new motor was I cut the threaded part of the shaft off and used a prop adapter that came with an aluminum spinner that has a grub screw to hold it. I also filed a small area for the screw to sit in so it can't spin or come off. Below is the one I used. With the new motor I had to go to an APC 8x4 prop too.

http://unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBI...idProduct=5666

Thanks for the link. The adapter wasn't quite the look I wanted. But they had a Alloy e-Prop Spinner D30xH30 that would work for me, if it hadn't been out of stock. MY LUCK.



Update: The link got me to search for aluminum spinners. Which is the only thing I hadn't tried. Found a 29mm(1.14") spinner from Maxx Products. Costly little thing though.

Raz , I've been rethinking your wheel bushing idea. Probably is the best solution. I was originally thinking the threads were catching the wheel enough to make it pop. But then I got thinking today the threads would probably eat away any contact by the second flight.

Been really busy lately, but I finally got it done. Even got to fly it. Was nervous as usual after spending so much time on it. It really flew nice though.
Here's a picture of my near scale TB-20.

TreeTrimming that is sweet! I finally got mine done too (now red instead of blue) but it sure doesn't look as good as yours. I don't blame you for being nervous, that is beautiful and I love the twin antennas, too cool. On the wheel bushings the aluminum tube has been working very well. It makes the fit perfect now and with just a drop of oil they don't rattle anymore. Have you checked your COG? Mine was slightly nose heavy so I added a small weight to the rear and it flies much nicer now with smooth rolls and almost hands off inverted flight.

Thanks RAZ. I really liked the red version too. I just didn't have a red I liked, so I used testers acrylic Kandy Scarlet. The blue on mine was in about three different shades and looked real cheap.

With all the changes I made I got pretty lucky with the C.G.. I'm using thunder power 1320mah batteries. And I found that if I use a piece of foam to wedge them to the back side of the battery box my C.G. is pretty good. I'm not saying it's perfect yet. I did have adjust the stick trims a bit. But the next few flights I'm going to fly a few verticals to check my thrust angles before try to fine tune the c.g. any farther.

I did came across another option on the wheels that I used. While searching for spinners I came across some GWS foam wheels. Their spindle hole is .082 and the wire is .075 so it leaves .007 clearance. Only bad thing is their not well balanced and thinner. Good side is at 2 inches they keep ground clearance for my 9 inch prop and their lighter.

Oh on the ailerons. I put a 15 inch carbon spar in the wing and then used the original wing spar in leading(thick) edge of the aileron. Now it's stiff as balsa but a lot lighter.

Guys, check those clevis's! My TB-20 is junk now thanks to the elevator clevis pin breaking in mid flight. It was flying fine then suddenly went into a dive and I couldn't pull it up. It hit head on into the pavement about 20 mph and the only part of the plane itself not destroyed was the rudder. The battery, esc, rx, servos & wheels were scrapped but everything else is trash. Make sure to preflight check it well every time and I would install rubber tubing on the clevises to help keep them from breaking.

Raz,I can really feal for you. Don't think there is anything worse than just getting one trimmed to where you like it and then have that happen

I debated about and didn't do, but now I going to go ahead and re-hinge the elevator and rudder. Even after working them back and forth to free them up, I still think their to stiff. Think I'll be ordering some clevises too.

I would also suggest that the Down Elevator throw be checked. At around a half inch, mine would make contact with the rear tip of the fuselage.

I never did like the feel of the clevises plus they don't have the rubber tube to clamp it. I already had one break while adjusting it so I was planning on replacing them at some point, just waited too long.

So, it appears that this 'is' a nice flying model and just a couple of hardware replacements such as the clevis plus fuel tubing to make it right?

Trying to decide.

Thanks!

Okay, okay

After reading some of you all that owned this model and the issues with the motor mount, motor securing screws, flimsy ailerons etc...etc.....

I have decided to save my $$$ for the Park Zone F4U Corsair!!!

Hobby-Lobby has a CRASH SALE on the TB-20 but, no thanks!!!

haha. i didnt read the thread but the price is what got me. I saw it and was like "Holy Smokes!" Does this plane have a lot of problems?
-P.D.

Well, for the crash price I went for one. Will do the usual mods covered here pre-flight and hope for the best. ... We'll see how it does.

good luck to you :]
-P.D.