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Mar 12, 2007, 04:03 AM
Scotland
rcminiman's Avatar
Build Log

Monarch International Marblehead by Graham Bantock


I have decided to swap the RM1000 build with a mate of mine, in exchange for some planks. I will still continue to build the RM1000 for him, and also update it here.
BUT-
I have decided to build the Monarch, from plans. I bought the plans from Sailsetc. They were through my letter box only 24 hours after ordering them. Thats a fantastic service from them. Thanks to graham and Lorna Bantock for their excellent service.
The drawings are very comprehensive, and cover everything, including making your own rigs. I have never seen better yacht drawings before. Another plus for Sailsetc.
The Monarch is the wooden version of their very popular and competitive model "Prime Number"
I must say that it looks very fast already. Its slim lines look great.

The build:-

I began by copying the hull lines, and pasting them to 6mm plywood. I then cut these shadows out using the bandsaw, and sanded the edges to the correct profiles.
The shadows were screwed to the building jig (long straight piece of wood!)
I have added the first two planks along the inwale already, and more will be added in quick succession in the days/weeks to come.
Barry
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Mar 12, 2007, 06:07 AM
Scotland
rcminiman's Avatar
Also, please feel free to post and chime in with suggestions, tips, advice etc.
Thanks.
Mar 12, 2007, 07:16 AM
Model Designer
keven64's Avatar

sarcastic comments ?


Quote:
rcminiman said
please feel free to post and chime in with suggestions, tips, advice etc.
Barry,

I thought you would do all the planking in a few hours - with CA ?

That's too big for me, unfortunately - though those lines are very pleasing to the eye...

Keven.
Mar 12, 2007, 07:22 AM
Scotland
rcminiman's Avatar
Nah, not this time Keven. I will be using Humbrol Extramite glue. Its the powdered kind. It will sand down easier than cyano when its all done. PLUS- the missus would go daft if I completed it any sooner. I told her it was going to be 6 months in the making!!
I have to keep on her good side.
Barry
Mar 12, 2007, 08:11 AM
Model Designer
keven64's Avatar
Barry,

Is that Humbrol Extramite stuff the same as the 'cascamite' that I used to use ( many many moons ago ) for making model boats ?

As I recall it came in a tin, you added water - and it ponged 'orrid !

Keven.
Mar 12, 2007, 08:20 AM
Scotland
rcminiman's Avatar
Yep, its pretty much the same stuff. It still stinks too!
I will rub a candle over the edges of the shadows so they dont stick to the hull. I cyano'd the first plank in place to hold it all together. It will seperate easily after planking/sanding is complete.
I think I will also add a keel plank as well before planking. This will give me a good defined line to plank up to with the rest of them. Hopefully it will turn out ok!?
Mar 12, 2007, 08:25 AM
Model Designer
keven64's Avatar
I am only experienced in planking with balsa strips ( both hulls and fuselages ) - so I shall be watching carefully...!

Keven.
Mar 12, 2007, 08:38 AM
Scotland
rcminiman's Avatar
Do you actually think I know what im doing? I learn as I go along! Ive not planked in "proper" wood for years. Its pretty much the same, but you have to be a lot more careful with the plank tapers. Balsa is very forgiving compared to cedar.
I take a measurement of the center section, divide it up by the number of planks, then mark up the bow and stern sections to reflect the same number of planks. This gives you the rough amount to taper each plank, but as always, some "tweaking" is always required.
Barry
Mar 12, 2007, 09:32 AM
Model Designer
keven64's Avatar
We all learn as we go along, Barry...

Keven.
Mar 12, 2007, 11:54 AM
Registered User
Hahaha,

I've got the same exact plans in queue after i finish updating my new ec12.

Guess who's gonna be my guinea-pig.

Lots o pics please!!!!!
Mar 12, 2007, 07:52 PM
Registered User
Barry,

Woa, slow down, think of how you are going to hold the planks in place as you build.
I built a wood Bantock 'Kite' a few years ago and found that by drilling 1/4
" holes in the shadows at appropriate places, ie below the gunwhale strip (as you are looking at the upturned hull), and in three other places through the shadow at each side (athwartships) and fitting pieces of dowel rod through all the holes you can have a very variable set of anchorage points to loop tensioned elastic bands over. Blag some off the postman! I managed to plank with the minimum of gap between each.
Your idea of tapering each plank is inviting a lot of work. The hull should be able to be planked parallel and as the planks gradually end up at the centre then they can be scarfed into the keelson. Another point, I fitted a keelson plank vertically set into slots in the shadows. It was not glued to them except to the bow plate and the transom. This gave a good vertical 'wall' to plank against and was easily faired off when the hull was finally shaped. Dont worry about the kelbox area, by thet time the hull will be so rigid that cutting through the keelson wont matter. I also added two planks at each side of the keelson over a length that the keelbox and mast tube fit, say between frame #5 & #7. This was done before the last outer planks and the garboard strake were fitted. You will have to cut notches into the appropriate shadows to allow this.
Hope these hints are not too late and best of luck with your build.

Cheers

Ralph
Mar 13, 2007, 02:59 AM
Scotland
rcminiman's Avatar
Good points there Ralph, thanks.
I am holding the planks in place using a velcro strip wrapped around the hull. It works a real treat.
Ive waxed the shadows using a candle so the glue wont stick.
I also have another problem- I dont have enough planks, so ive used some of my aeromodelling background info, and im setting the cedar planks at even spacing. The spaces are to be filled in using hard balsa. Ive used this method on numerous plane fuselages, and it appears to work out ok. Im basically trying to do this as easy/cheap as possible with the materials I have to hand. The guy that had the cedar also told me that he had more, but doesnt.
It will work out ok!
I will add two cedar planks in between the planks you can see are fitted at the moment. The balsa infill is very easy and quick to achieve after that.!

Dont follow my way Breakwater! You wont learn anything right, thats for sure. I manage to do everything differently, but it still works!
Barry
Mar 13, 2007, 03:13 AM
Model Designer
keven64's Avatar
Barry,

As an aeromodeller, you will not need to be warned to use thicker balsa planks than the cedar planks - so the ( softer ) balsa can be shaped and sanded to the surface of the ( harder ) cedar ?
Thought not...

An excellent weight-saving idea there, by the way !
Will a lighter hull have an advantage over those planked with no balsa ?

Oh - and I disagree about folk not learning from your methods...

Keven.
Mar 13, 2007, 03:56 AM
Scotland
rcminiman's Avatar
I was planning on sanding the cedar to shape before adding the balsa infill. That way it only needs a quick wipe over to sand the balsa.
But- sanding should always be done using a hard block, so the softer material cant be undercut at all.
The boat was designed to be planked totally in 3mm hard balsa or obechi, with cedar coming in at the heavier end of the scale. I had 17 cedar planks there for free, so used them. The balsa will still have to be scarf jointed to obtain the length, but since its only going to be infill, it should be ok.
The whole lot can then be given a coat of epoxy and maybe 50g woven matting to toughen it all up nicely. I will be adding carbon tows inside her, where the ribs should be after its all done.
The raised foredeck is going to be balsa as well, and the aft deck is going to be fablon over balsa beams, like my other M. Im obsessed with keeping her as light as possible, yet still be strong where it needs to be.
Mar 13, 2007, 04:04 AM
Model Designer
keven64's Avatar
I was thinking of using epoxy on my small Marbleheads as well - with a little glasscloth ( or something similar ) to toughen... but my hulls will be all balsa, and necessarily lightweight as befits 25" long models.

Carbon tows where ribs once were is a very good idea. I am learning...

Keven.


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