Let me start by saying the Bowman’s Super Scooter when built as per the instructions is a great performer and has been one of my favorite all around foamie slopers.

After getting a new Super Scooter kit as a present last Christmas (it will be my 3rd one) I considered making a couple of changes that I felt might improve the looks and flight characteristics of this already fine sloper. I’m sure everyone has their own idea of what looks and performs well. This kit bash is just an expression of my thoughts and ideas and is not meant to be critical of the Super Scooter when built as per the instructions. Also, for most builders who work with EPP, this will be old stuff. But, for those new to EPP construction this might be of some help.

The wings were started in much the same way as described in the instructions with some exceptions. First I used epoxy to join the wing halves and used PU (Gorilla) glue to install the spars. I used strips of foam cut from the wing beds to fill in the void above the spars which I later cut and sanded to conform to the airfoil shape.

After reading the recommendations from several posts, I removed about ¼ inch from the trailing edge and installed a piece of 1/8 X 3/8 inch spruce. I also reinforced the center section of the wing’s trailing edge similar to the way NCFM does on its Halfpipe. I used 2 layers masking tape to protect the foam when planing and rough sanding the spruce to the airfoil shape. After removing the tape, final sanding was done to bring the spruce even with the foam

I wanted to reduce some of the drag created by the 2 inch ailerons so I made new ones from 3/8 X 1&1/2 inch trailing edge stock that I planed and sanded to fit the spruce TE of the wing. I cut about 2 inches off the ends of the fitted aileron stock and glued it to the wing’s spruce TE in the wing root area to later reduce the gap between ailerons and the fuse. Even though the aileron cord was reduced by ½ inch, they remain almost full span so I don’t think roll rate will be severely affected.

The curved shape of the wing tip was made using a template I made using a French curve and what looked pleasing to the eye. Nothing scientific about the shape, I just felt that it looked the way I wanted it to look.

The wing tips were shaped using medium drywall sanding mesh and sand paper. A thin coat of epoxy/micro balloons was then added and sanded to a smooth finish

HS 85MG’s were used for the ailerons. Using my Dremel to make the cutouts in the wing for the aileron servos was pretty standard. The servos were then potted using epoxy and micro balloons. The channel for the servo leads was made using a Dremel router bit set at about 1/8 in depth.

To make the wing removable, a hole was drilled into the center section and a length of 6 mm carbon tube was glued in place.

The wing was then taped with 3M bi-directional strapping tape on the LE, light weight 3M strapping tape (available from Dream Flight http://www.dream-flight.com/order_US.html) over the spar and on the TE. I gave the wing a coat of very thin goop, lightly dusted it with 3M 77, and then used light spackle which I sanded smooth to finish the preparation for covering.

The stab/elevator and fin/rudder (I decided to add a rudder and see if it would make any difference when doing acro and landing using the ailerons as flaperons) were made from 3/32 balsa which I strengthened with unidirectional carbon and covered with 2oz s-glass. When doing the sandwich/pressure method for glassing small items, I have had good luck using the backing from ultracote instead of wax paper to help keep the surface finish smooth. Mylar would have worked as well (or better). I picked up some pieces of melamine for next to nothing from the damaged shelf bin at Home Depot that are flat and true that I use for small projects that I don’t feel like bagging. I have learned that if you are careful and apply the right amount of even pressure (read weight) to the melamine and let the epoxy cure, the results can be very satisfactory.

I used some 4mm carbon tube in the center section of the stab which will go into some 6mm carbon tube in the fuse. This and an 8-32 nylon bolt will make the stab removable when the fuse is finished later. The center section of the stab was covered with some carbon/Kevlar hybrid for added rigidity and strength.

Awesome Super Scooter build,...

I'm on my 2nd SS now - just gotta cover it, final assembly, trim toss,

Dont worry about building it heavy it's good in all winds 10-50 mph, very precise in aerobatics, and will thermal nicely on good days.

Love the melamine trick - gonna have to give it a try...

-Konajoe

The fuse was strengthened by using a piece of 6mm carbon rod instead of the supplied 4mm rod. I make the channel for the 6mm rod longer (28 & ½ inches total) and deeper with a router bit on my Dremel. The channel was then cleaned out with 80 grit sandpaper on a piece of 4mm carbon rod and taped with green masking tape. I have found that if I carefully tape the area where I know I will have excess PU and have to sand later, I get much better results than without taping.

Lookin' great, nice bash going on.

I'm just wrapping my SS build, just need to glue wing and tail, then do linkages. Being a bit of a rookie at this stuff, I didn't deviate too much, just did some basic mods suggested by konajoe, PGR and others. I'm looking forward to winter ending and getting this thing in the air.

Let us know how adding the rudder turns out, I'm curious.

Merlinmurph

The 6mm carbon rod was then glued in with PU and capped over with scrap EPP foam. After curing, it was trimmed and sanded to shape.

Thanks Merlinmurph,

Konajoe and others have provided some great suggestions that I tried to incorporate in this project.

The characteristic Super Scooter hump just ahead of the wing was trimmed slightly to reduce the frontal area by a small amount. Again, nothing scientific, but I thought it had a more streamlined look. In order to make the wing and stab removable, attach points were needed. I routed out areas in the fuse under the wing and stab where I would later tap for ¼ inch and 8-32 nylon bolts. These areas were filled with epoxy mixed with micro balloons and allowed to cure.

This is one way of making the wing removable. I’m sure there are others, but this one has worked well for me in the past and is not too difficult to put together. The carbon rod I used for the receiver is 8mm and wrapped with Kevlar. I have also used Kevlar thread and braided fishing line like Spectra and Power Pro with good results. Perhaps a bit of overkill, but I’ve never had one break. The wrapped carbon rod was then “spot” glued with a drop of thick CA into the hole of the light plywood mount. Be sure to allow the carbon rod to move slightly so that an exact alignment can be made with the wing rod when everything is glued together. This is our youngest grandson Ryan helping glue the wing mount in place. He loves spending time in the shop and is a great second set of hands.

I have learned to pay special attention to protecting areas such as where the wing and the fuse might get inadvertently glued together. In this application I used 2 layers of masking tape on the wing around and behind the carbon rod. The first layer was lightly smeared with ChapStick so the second layer just barely sticks and stays in place. I then used ChapStick to liberally coat the second layer of masking tape and the carbon rod protruding from the LE of the wing. This will keep it from being glued to the fuse when aligning and gluing the mount in place. I used a pretty stiff mixture of epoxy/micro balloons to install the mount. It just needs to fill in the voids and be as strong as the foam. I then used some leftover epoxy micro/balloon to fair in the area over the wing. When everything cures, the wing can be removed without difficulty

Both sides of the fuse under the wing was reinforced with 4mm carbon rod 8 & ½ long. The carbon rod was glued in with PU and finished in the same way as described earlier. Since I know the fuse will be later hollowed out, I feel this will help with the integrity of the wing saddle area.