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Discussion
SLOW-STICK X Build
This is the start of the Slow Stick X Build thread. The intention of the thread is to cover both the kit and ARF version. Post number one will serve as an index to the body of this thread and other related threads. Post number one can change daily as new information and ideas are available. Relevant posts are any thing related directly to the Slow Stick X or any product that can be used with the Slow Stick X.
Slow Stick X links Slow Stick X with Floats https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707903 Slow Stick X in Flight https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...t=Slow+Stick+X Slow Stick X in Flight https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...t=Slow+Stick+X Flying indoor at Perry https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651528 Slow Stick X Specifications Wing Dimensions: Length trailing edge 43” leading edge 39.5” Width 12” Wing Cord: Full symmetrical constant cord and is 2” at its widest point. Wing Weight: without a servo installed and covered with a light model covering the wing weighs approximately 6 7/8 oz Total Model flying weight: without a battery installed the plane weighs between 16 and 20 oz, depending on your setup. Keep it light for best performance! Flight Characteristics: The Slow Stick X Can fly slow or fast. It has an extremely slow stall speed yet it is a fully aerobatic model. The SSX also flies well in windy conditions. Inverted flight characteristics are also excellent. When balanced properly the SSX will fly inverted as well as it does upright. The Slow Stick X is an excellent model for novice to expert pilots. It is an extremely versatile model. On low rates the model can be docile and easy to fly. On high rates it can be an extreme stunt machine.Motor Sport class: 740Kv -1000Kv Brushless Outrunner with 10-3/8 APC SF prop Extreme Flight: 4200 KV Brushless Inrunner Geared 7.6:1 with 12-6 APC SF prop or Hacker A20-22L with a 10-4.7 SF prop Battery recommend 1320 mah 3 cell LiPO Note: other batteries will work as long as the model is balanced. I have flown this model on the stock GWS setup using Nimh batteries with some successes. However, I do not recommend it for acrobatics. Balancing Always balance with the battery you will fly with. If you go to a lighter battery, you will need to rebalance. When balancing, just move the wing and plastic mounts forward or aft. The balance point is 1/2" to 1" back from the spar. I would also recommend placing your servos and receiver toward the tail section when the model is nose heavy. Never add weight to balance when you can just change the position of components. Keep the wing leading edge 5.5 – 6 inches from the front tip of the fuselage stick. It is also a good idea to balance the wing tip to tip. Note: Recent testing has shown that the CG can be pushed back slightly. This will improve inverted flight and hovering. I have been balancing with the side of my fingers touching the trailing edge of the spar. Covering Recommended covering: Solite is the lightest. However, it punctures easily. I like to use transparent Ultracote Lite or Ultracote Park Light. MAIN WING: Tack all four corners first; just like you are putting a sheet on a bed. Keep wrinkles to a minimum. Use low heat just in case you mess-up. This way you can pull the covering off and start over. Then tack the middle leading and trailing edge. Next tack the middle tip and middle/center of the center decking. Now turn the heat up. Run the iron up the main spar and start pulling the covering over the leading and trailing edge while ironing it down. Save the wing tips for last. I typically have about 2” of overhang on the covering when doing the wing. After you trim it off, you can use the leftover for the ailerons. Wing Tips: I use a heat gun at high setting and divide the wrinkles evenly throughout the wing tip. I then use the heat to shrink out the wrinkles. At the same time I am pulling and stretching around the wing tip edge. I also use my fingers to brace the wing tip to prevent it from breaking. Use your thumb and index finger to grip the covering and the remaining fingers push the opposite side of the tip you are covering. If you have a hot grip glove it helps. Ultra cote is best, but you should be able to get good results with Monokote. The yellow plane below is covered with Monokote. Discussion for newest kit starts on Page 107 post 1600 https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...46592&page=107 Here is a great build log: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1182842 New Improved Slow Stick X ImagesView all Images in thread
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Last edited by jkarpy; Mar 26, 2013 at 08:04 AM.
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j,let me know when u get the ARF out,It was lots of fun to fly at night at Ocala
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no prob J,Sunday was cancelled,looks like a trip to graves will be in store soon!
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I want one please
![]() I owned a slow stick ever since it came out. My dad, me, and my brother have taught many people on it. Right now I fly (almost) pattern and also 3D. This design really caught me be suprise. I like it very much. My dad owns a castle creation mamba and I think it would go great with this plane. I think this plane will also be a big fun-fly hit. I know I am hook on this plane and I will be watching this thread very closely for updates and ect. I am hooked thats all I can say.... Team3d |
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I've built a wing similar to this one; it has half-span ailerons, dual servos, a sort of "booster-chair" arrangement to get the wing up high enough to clear the rudder and elevator servos. It is really astonishing what it has done for the old Stick. It is without a doubt my favorite plane now; I've got about 120 flights on it and it's the one I reach for time after time. I'd go for full-span ailerons if I were to rebuild it, and I'd probably make the airfoil thinner for a little better speed and climb, but as it is it's turned the Stick into a wonderful plane...very aerobatic, loves flying inverted, very tight turning radius, a little faster than the conventional wing, but floaty and easy to land.
So 3D, GET ONE! You'll just love it. |
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Quote:
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Slow Stick X instructions
Here are the latest Instructions for Slow Stick X wing kit.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...05&postcount=1 |
Last edited by jkarpy; Jul 09, 2008 at 10:52 AM.
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Slow Stick / Slow Stick X improvements
One minor design flaw in the original Slow Stick is that the rubber band posts are too short.
Using 5/32 aluminum tubing, cut 4 3/8 long pieces. Use thick CA glue and glue them to the existing rubber band posts of the original Slow Stick wing saddles. Make sure you do not leave sharp edges that can cut the rubber bands. I like to fill the tube with thick CA and leave a bead at the top of the tube. If you do not have a tubing cutter, you can use an Exacto knife in a rolling action to cut the tubing. Return to build thread https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...92#post6970305 |
Last edited by jkarpy; Apr 26, 2007 at 02:04 AM.
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I regret I didn't get to see Ryan fly this at Perry, but I was too busy helping the crew at Hodges hobbies out..... I was able to score a kit though, and I'll start my build very soon.. I'm ready to do it! That thing looked great!!!
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Quote:
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Last edited by jkarpy; Mar 05, 2007 at 04:27 PM.
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Hey!!!! you didn't score a kit for the old original stock Slow Stick master???? Whaddup wid dat??? ![]() ![]() jkarpy..will you have some kits at SEFF??? |
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Quote:
http://www.align.com.tw/shop/index.p...sort=2a&page=3 Horizon sells them. |
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Last edited by jkarpy; Mar 04, 2007 at 09:29 PM.
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cool man! Might just have to get 1 from ya!
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