Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Nov 01, 2007, 10:50 AM
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Chris,
Your tail wheel looks great! I could'nt look at mine anymore so I bent it a bit over 180d deg. which put the wheel a bit closer to scale position. Which mains are you going to install?

Last night I was thinking about starting a TA152 conversion, the TA152C had the same short span wing, but after I looked at the side vies I realized that they moved the cockpit back on it, which makes the conversion much more of a pain. But man, the TA152's sure looked cool with the super long fuses.

B58 been a scratch project along with a B52. Between the two and the D9 conversion I bit off a bit to much which cut into any flying this fall.

Cheers--Stacker
Last edited by stacker; Nov 01, 2007 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Nov 01, 2007, 02:28 PM
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Hi Stacker,

I am installing these retracts
https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...idProduct=3821
They are probably a bit too big and I have had to remove a lot of foam to fit them. I have reduced their weight almost by half by replacing the wire undercarriage legs with carbon fibre rod. They should be very strong . My main problem is to get the undercarriage legs to sit in an acceptable way in the down position. When they lock down they are splayed out slightly because of the wing dihedral. I hope to work that out soon.

Looking at the instructions I suspect there should be "pushrod lock heads" (part 29) somewhere? The only similar thing I can find is part 11 on frame A but this looks nothing like part 29. Can anyone help me out?

I am doing a build thread in my blog if you want to have a look.
Old Nov 02, 2007, 09:31 AM
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I have some Great Planes .10 to put in mine. They look the same, but I don't know about the size. How do you mount the wheel to the retract? Bend the end of the retract wire? How are you connecting the servo to the retract?
Old Nov 02, 2007, 11:34 AM
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Condre',
On mine I bent the gear leg for the wheel. Also I bent gear forward for scale and inward too. Linkage was made from 1/16" piano wire. I mounted the servo on center of wing recessed into the top of wing. Linkage makes a 90deg bend up, then another 90 deg. bend into servo arm. A bit tricky the first time you do it. Some people mount servo on the bottom of wing recessed in for a more straight shot at arm.

Cheers--Stacker
Old Nov 02, 2007, 12:22 PM
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Maidened my fw190 this morning. I used an e-flite 480 and 10x7. I extended the nose out to add nose weight. Also lengthend the cowl. CG was right at 80mm. (approx 3in). I used stationary landing gear, (removed the retracts). 3s 1250 (20c) battery positioned dead center in the compartment.
flew great - no trim required. Love this plane!
Old Nov 03, 2007, 07:55 AM
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Extending the nose might seem an easy way to put CG into its place but IMHO it does make the plane look really weird. Looks more like Corsair fuselage paired with 190 wing..

Nevertheless enjoy flying!
Old Nov 04, 2007, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceeray
Extending the nose might seem an easy way to put CG into its place but IMHO it does make the plane look really weird. Looks more like Corsair fuselage paired with 190 wing..

Nevertheless enjoy flying!

Not as weird as you might think friend. It looks somewhat like the D-model. I'll try and post some pics.... thanks
Old Nov 12, 2007, 12:00 PM
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Focke Wulf (1 min 32 sec)


here is a linky which shows my plane painted and ready without wheelwell doors
Old Nov 12, 2007, 12:36 PM
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Nice video!
Old Nov 12, 2007, 01:55 PM
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Great looking model Ceeray!
Old Nov 30, 2007, 11:01 AM
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I'm almost done beefing up my cowl. It weighs in at 2.8 oz, but is about bullet proof. I had about 6 flights on the bird without paint and scraped the hell out of the bottom of the cowl and had 2 cracks. Now it will take a nose in from 100 feet to damage it!

I contacted the master builder, J Morgan, and asked for his advice. His answer, go to a hardware store and pickup some 8 ounce cloth and the fiberglass resin that would be used to repair damage to a car. This resin smells bad, but was a lot easier to work with than I had expected. I had plenty of time to work the cloth and get everything the way I wanted it. The nice thing is that you can sand this resin easy enough, and if you hit the fibers of the cloth, you don't get strings. The cloth mixed with the resin sands as well as the resin does without the cloth.

I've got one more session of wet sanding to do on the cowl and then I'm ready for painting.

Question, does anyone know the weight of the cowl unpainted? I'm sure I increased it's weight 3 times what it was.
Old Nov 30, 2007, 04:01 PM
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An untrimmed and unpainted cowl weighs 45 grams (1.6 oz)

Ken
Old Dec 01, 2007, 11:28 PM
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thanks Ken, I guess I didn't add as much weight as I thought! Cool!!
Old Dec 02, 2007, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HawkLover
thanks Ken, I guess I didn't add as much weight as I thought! Cool!!
When I was working in a fiberglass boat factory I was told the following.
  • X oz glass cloth is the weight of the glass per square yard
  • For maximum strength the weight of resin used should be equal to the weight of the cloth used
  • Therefore one square yard of 8-oz cloth makes 16 oz of fiberglass reinforced plastic.

The inside of the FW 180 cowl has approximately 0.07 square yards of area so you should only add 1.1-1.2 oz weight by fiberglassing with 8 oz cloth.

I use three layers of 0.75-oz cloth so I have the equivalent of 2-oz cloth, which is also widely available. 2-oz cloth would only add 1/3 oz to the cowling and would probably be strong enough to withstand everything except a top speed vertical arrival. Later this week I will buy some 2-oz cloth to try.

Ken
Old Dec 12, 2007, 10:14 PM
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Is the CG location in the manual on this bird correct?

If not, what location is everyone finding to be correct?

Flew mine today, balanced right where the manual says it should.. Flew as if it was verrrrry tail heavy...

Jeff
www.CommonSenseRC.com


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