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May 04, 2007, 09:57 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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I also meant no disrespect to Pat for mentioning a one stack version.

Tim, Rest easy, there was NO offense taken!!! Also, I'm not at all familiar with the MACK power system for the Lackawanna. Personally, I've had such good luck with either the Dumas 6V High Torque motor, or the 6V High Speed with a Master Airscrew 2.5:1 gear drive for this size boat that I haven't gone looking for alternatives. Though both work equally well, I lean toward the direct drive unit because it runs much quieter.

Brooks, The photos look great!!! Looks like a mod that could be easily made starting with the Lackawanna kit.

PAT
Last edited by P. Tritle; May 07, 2007 at 10:36 PM.
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May 07, 2007, 10:42 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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We got out and logged another hour and twenty minutes running the Lackawanna this morning. The wind was up and down from dead calm to over well over 10, and from every concievable direction in a constantly changing bluster. The good news is that the boat didn't care whether it was blowing or not, and handles the cross winds beautifully. I was a bit concerned that as tall as the model is it might get weird in crosswinds, but proved to be very solid and far more stable then I'd have ever guessed.

PAT
Nov 26, 2008, 12:48 PM
Between Fear and Loathing
SubNut's Avatar
Would it be possible to use fiberglass to reinforce this ABS hull like you would for the Dumas Victory Tug?
Nov 26, 2008, 12:55 PM
Where's Pamela?
patmat2350's Avatar
'glass won't stick to the ABS. And if somehow you could get it to, you'd need to add a lot of weight to obtain equivalent stiffness.

But why? What is it that is undesirable about the ABS? It's plenty tough, you won't hole it even if you run Class 4 rapids... Maybe you don't like the fact that a finger poke to the hull causes it to spring in a little? Don't do that!
Nov 26, 2008, 12:56 PM
Between Fear and Loathing
SubNut's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by patmat2350
'glass won't stick to the ABS. And if somehow you could get it to, you'd need to add a lot of weight to obtain equivalent stiffness.

But why? What is it that is undesirable about the ABS? It's plenty tough, you won't hole it even if you run Class 4 rapids... Maybe you don't like the fact that a finger poke to the hull causes it to spring in a little? Don't do that!

LOL, I just hear all the nay sayers here about ABS. was just wondering if there was a way.

Hm, could use magnets to create a mold...
Nov 26, 2008, 01:01 PM
Where's Pamela?
patmat2350's Avatar
No prob, and I'll ask the same of the naysayers... I've built large ABS hulls, and they work just fine. No they aren't as rigid as 'glass, but with bulkheads and decks installed, they won't be a problem. And yes they can be glued to just fine, you just need to use the right stuff.
It really comes down to personal preference.
Nov 26, 2008, 04:22 PM
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Predreadnut's Avatar
Pat, whats the right stuff?
Nov 26, 2008, 04:46 PM
Where's Pamela?
patmat2350's Avatar
If the joint can "breathe" (i.e., not a wide lamination of 2 plastic sheets), PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive (in a caulking tube from Home Depot). Takes a few hours to set.

Also works: Amazing Goop.

Recommended by Robbe: Stabilit Express, a 2-part methyl-methacrylate (also, "Fusion" from Deluxe in the UK). Both are pricey.

Epoxy WON'T work, though West's new G-Flex epoxy is supposed to. Haven't put it to the test yet on plastic, but West recommends flame treating the surface (!) for best adhesion, and it takes overnight to cure.
Nov 26, 2008, 04:52 PM
Where's Pamela?
patmat2350's Avatar
And CA of course, where it makes sense. Where doesn't it make sense? Large joints that need to be wiggled for positioning... joints that get flexed at all... CA sticks but is somewhat brittle.
Jul 31, 2020, 08:11 AM
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Hi. Just getting started building a Lackawanna tug. I am new to building models. Can anyone give me a list of the basic tools and adhesives / paints etc. thanks. Mike
Jul 31, 2020, 12:05 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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Mike, There's a section at the front of the instruction manual listing the necessary extras you'll need to complete the build. Then as you progress through the manual into the building sequenced there will be suggestions there as well. As far as tools, basic modeling hand tools and a good quality soldering iron will be sufficient for a straight up build.

PAT
Aug 07, 2020, 05:04 PM
Registered User

Lackawanna tug.


Thank you Pat. Any suggestions on a soldering iron? The brass rudder and rudder post are pretty heavy and the railings are very small gauge wire. Both are brass
Aug 07, 2020, 05:42 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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Del, I fought with cheap soldering irons for years, and finally through frustration - and probably $300 worth of cheap irons -- I finally broke down and bought a Hakko 936 soldering station. When I bought it probably 10 years ago it was about $130.00. They've no doubt gone up some since then, but if you eliminate the cost of a bunch of el-cheapo supremes that don't work, even half again that would be a bargain. You can look in here for several options: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hakko-70...01.8%C2%B0%20F

PAT
Aug 07, 2020, 06:05 PM
Where's Pamela?
patmat2350's Avatar
I have a Hakko unit branded as Radio Shack... actually pretty good. But when it comes to beefier items with lots of surface area, nothing beats a small butane torch. Takes some practice, and I recommend low-silver content solder and acid flux, such as StayBrite or TIX.


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