GWS E-Starter ailerons made simple - RC Groups
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Jan 22, 2007, 12:25 AM
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GWS E-Starter ailerons made simple


When most beginners eventually graduate to aileron trainers, they are faced with new challenges in building even the simplest ARF kits. Putting on a set of ailerons can seem like an exercise in frustration, and can result in a sloppy and inefficient build which will hamper the beginner's efforts to learn how to fly a plane with ailerons.

This build thread will show how to:

1) Cut out and attach the ailerons themselves. Posts 17 - 20. The finished ailerons will have no gap between them and the wing. In addition to the E-Starter, this method can be used on most any of the 4 channel GWS planes.

2) Set up the GWS E-Starter with dual aileron servos. Posts 1 - 4


Installing separate aileron servos on the GWS E-Starter not only gives the plane more precise control, but in my opinion is actually a lot easier than fumbling with the stock setup, which utilizes one servo to control the ailerons via a control linkage setup. There are all kinds of things that can go wrong when using one servo to control two ailerons, like linkages out of aline, linkages that bind, and linkages that get bent and malformed while trying to install them. This is where the beginner usually gets into a situation that goes south real fast. In addition, unless care is taken to strengthen the locations that the stock build control linkage is attached to, the rods eventually loosen up and tear out of the ailerons.

There are many ways to accomplish putting in separate servos and attaching ailerons on the E-Starter. I've decided to post my setup in case anyone is interested. This method will also work equally well on other planes.

With that said...

Step 1:

Mark out the placement of both servos on the underside of the wing. In my case, I'm using Dymond D47 servos which are only 8 mm thick. This lets me locate them close to the aileron hinge line. If your servos are thicker (which they most likely will be), then simply locate them further from the hinge line, where the wing thickens out. The only important thing here is that the wing must be thicker than the servo where you want to mount them.

The 42 mm dimension in the picture will be adequate for whatever servo size you're using.

Chuck
Last edited by NoFlyZone; Jan 28, 2007 at 01:43 AM.
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Jan 22, 2007, 12:52 AM
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Step 2:

Finish tracing the servos onto the underside of the wing and then carve out the pockets.

Tip: Mark your #11 Exacto blade at exactly the depth you need for the pockets. Since my servos are 8 mm thick, I want a pocket depth of 10 mm for the tape and CA that will be used to secure the servos into the pockets. This will result in a flush mount of the servos. Add two mm to the thickness of your servos; whatever size you are using.

Slice all around the outlines to your prescribed depth. Then using the flat end of your machinists scale, start removing the excess material.

The best way to make a nice clean, perfectly flat bottomed pocket is to gently scrape the foam away, instead of digging it out. This will take a little longer to do, but it is worth it. Remember, just keep lightly scraping it. When you are done, you should have nice straight walls, flat bottoms, and sharply defined corners to the pocket.

I work exclusively in the metric system, and have attempted to convert my measurements into the English system for those of you who insist on using antiquated measuring systems...

Chuck
Jan 22, 2007, 01:01 AM
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Step 3:

Now that the servo pockets are carved out, we can get rid of that chunk of foam that the original single servo was supposed to be mounted into. All it does at this point is waste space, and in the interest of making our plane just a teeny bit lighter, we will simply remove it. It may not be a lot of weight, but every little bit helps!

Cut around the base with your Exacto knife, leaving it a bit heavy. Then use sponge sanding blocks to smooth out the area and blend it in to the surrounding wing surface.

Chuck
Jan 22, 2007, 01:34 AM
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Step 4:

The last step to installing our servos is to bury the servo wires and connector into the foam. Make a light pencil line along the direction that the wires will run.

Mark your Exacto blade with a Sharpie at the 5 mm mark and score the line.

Take your machinist's scale and push it into the slit until the '5 mm' mark is even with the foam surface. Do this all along the scored line.

Since I'm using 6" servo extension wires, I buried the connections to a depth of 10 mm, so that they lie flush with the surface of the wing. Again, carve the hole 2 mm more than the width of the connectors.

The last step is to put a piece of tape onto the bottom of the servo, then use CA to fix the servos in their pockets.

NOTE !!!
I used a servo tester to center the servo horns before I taped and CA'd them into the pockets. If you don't have a similar device, just wait until the end of the build when you have your electronics in the plane before you tape and CA them in.
ALSO NOTE !!! When you join the extension wire to the servo wire, make SURE that the polarity is correct between the two!

Dymond D47 servos
http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_servo_dymond.htm
Maxx Products 6" Servo Extensions with AWG 32 micro wires
Part #1430
http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-3.html

Next (when I get time) will be a tutorial on how to cut out and attach the ailerons...

Chuck
Last edited by NoFlyZone; Jan 22, 2007 at 01:40 AM.
Jan 22, 2007, 04:08 AM
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Hey Chuck,

Nice tutorial, but you're a few hours late. I just finished my E-Starter a couple hours before you posted this. (It doesn't matter, I didn't have two servos to use in the E-Starter anyway)

Even though it was dark I took it over to a lit parking lot with a 10x6 prop on the 400XT and a 7.4v battery. The parking lot was probably 100x50 feet. Anyway, I flew the plane right into some branches. No damage, but I decided I needed a little more room.

I took it out to the baseball field, stuck glow sticks on it, and took it up. It flew fairly nicely considering. I think I'll get it properly dialed in tomorrow though... I only flew it for a couple of minutes.

The landing gear is excellent - it takes off on grass just fine (although I'm using a 400XT as opposed to a brushed motor).

Anyway, now I'm tempted to build another with those D47 servos. Are you using them in everything you've got now? How are they holding up? Have you stripped any yet?
Jan 22, 2007, 09:04 AM
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L add MPI 3 inch wheels (white plastic hubs with black foam "tires").. they will fly off anything... also on a thread her I posted a tail mod... to get rid of the wheel... all it does is snag (TM400 had same issue).. I made a nice skid blade for the tail with piano wire. Works great.

Chuck.. nice build/mod... I did it a week ago with EFlite S75's.... I get 80* throws in both directions.
Jan 22, 2007, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The L
Anyway, now I'm tempted to build another with those D47 servos. Are you using them in everything you've got now? How are they holding up? Have you stripped any yet?
Sounds you like a nice time night flying!

I just ordered another 10 of them an hour ago. 4 for the TM 400, 4 for the new E-Starter, and a couple of spares. From now on, they go into every plane I build...

On another note, I did manage to fry one, and punch a hole in the top of it by hooking up my servo tester battery to the wrong terminals. I use a 6v lantern battery for my servo tester, and alligator clipped the hot wire from the tester to the NEGATIVE post of my battery. Then clipped the ground wire to the PLUS side of the battery. Took about 3-4 seconds to burn a hole right in the top of the servo.

The thing that irks me is that I did it on purpose! I know that the current flow on a battery is from the negative pole to the positive pole... so when faced with a servo tester that needed power to it's hot side, I plugged it straight away onto the negative side of the battery. Somebody should have shot Benjamin Franklin for screwing that all up...

Chuck
Jan 22, 2007, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATIS
L add MPI 3 inch wheels (white plastic hubs with black foam "tires").. they will fly off anything... also on a thread her I posted a tail mod... to get rid of the wheel... all it does is snag (TM400 had same issue).. I made a nice skid blade for the tail with piano wire. Works great.

Chuck.. nice build/mod... I did it a week ago with EFlite S75's.... I get 80* throws in both directions.
Hey, maybe you can detail how you attached your ailerons too! Let's make this an aileron attachment tip thread sort of. Since that seems to be the biggest area of screwups for beginners.

Chuck
Jan 22, 2007, 07:01 PM
SJC
SJC
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Chuck, Nice post. I do have one question though, where are the throws on the servos? I can't see them in the picture. Are the servos laid on their sides or are they straight up and down? Sorry if this is a silly question.

Jason
Jan 22, 2007, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Hey, maybe you can detail how you attached your ailerons too! Let's make this an aileron attachment tip thread sort of. Since that seems to be the biggest area of screwups for beginners.

Chuck
I followed the instructions in the GWS manual, not caring about precision in the slightest.

It'd be an insult to beginners to actually recommend they do it as porrly as I did. (That being said, I flew it today and it flew just fine.)
Jan 22, 2007, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJC
Chuck, Nice post. I do have one question though, where are the throws on the servos? I can't see them in the picture. Are the servos laid on their sides or are they straight up and down? Sorry if this is a silly question.

Jason
Hi Jason,

The servos are laying on their sides. The little yellow thingies in the pics are actually the servo horns. They're small, like the rest of the servo, so it's hard to see the actual horn.... but they are attached and ready to be hooked up to the ailerons!

Chuck
Jan 22, 2007, 09:55 PM
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Mine look like "NOFLY's" except I mounted them a little higher and a little farther away from the fuse... I did that as the wing was a little thicker and I did not want to cut through the foam by mistake... also wanted to spread the "push" over more of the aeliron to prevent it from flexing... but I fixed that by adding a thin Cf strip along the trailing edge of the aeliron... no flex in them now.
Jan 22, 2007, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATIS
Mine look like "NOFLY's" except I mounted them a little higher and a little farther away from the fuse... I did that as the wing was a little thicker and I did not want to cut through the foam by mistake... also wanted to spread the "push" over more of the aeliron to prevent it from flexing... but I fixed that by adding a thin Cf strip along the trailing edge of the aeliron... no flex in them now.
Come on, you guys gotta start posting some closeup pics. That way we can all combine the features we like from each method...

Chuck
Jan 22, 2007, 11:47 PM
Watch out for that TREE!
Very nice, Chuck. Will help the newbies a great deal. I know my first attempt took way longer than needed for doing everything 4 times. Didn't want to make a mistake.

John
Jan 23, 2007, 07:02 AM
Member 120mph Club
ATIS's Avatar
OK..when I get home I will take some...I thought I already posted some...will have to look...


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