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Sep 23, 2002, 08:37 PM
Registered User

Couple more Tiger Moth build questions


OK Guys, I knew I would have a few more questions before I started the build

Just got my Radio (Hitec FocusIII). I will be using Qualcomms and a Pixie 7 ESC. Do I need to use the little micro on/off switch that comes inline to the receiver battery box? I assume you don't want to plug in a battery without having your transmitter on, but it doesn't seem like it would be a major problem to just have your TX on when you plug it in right before you fly. Or does the Pixie 7 take care of this problem somehow? I don't want to use the switch if it isn't neccesary, it weighs 4.5 grams with the wires.

Here is another

I are ready to glue (using probond) the upper wing dihedral. DO I need to sand or scratch up the crease before glueing? At least remove the paint?

That's it for now! I am sure I will have more as I start building


THANKS!
Rick
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Sep 23, 2002, 08:50 PM
an earth bound misfit, I
Basketcase's Avatar
Hi Rick, yes, it's a good idea to sand or scuff the paint before gluing the wing.

You don't need the switch or battery box, the bec in the Pixie 7 takes care of power for the servos. You're right about always turning on the transmitter first and off last. Before plugging or unplugging the batteries.

Good calls.

BC
Sep 23, 2002, 09:31 PM
Registered User
LEROY's Avatar
The yellow covering on my TM wings was actually a very thin film. I used a very sharp (ie., brand new) #11 blade razor knife to cut this film right along the joint at the dihedral point. Then you can peel it right off, exposing bare foam. The probond works great, especially if you add a drop or two of water and mix it with the glue in a cup before applying.

I haven't found a need for the on/off switch, as my battery (QC 830) is relatively easy to slide in & out, and the ESC battery lead is long enough to extend out of the battery opening for easy plug/unplug. If you had to remove the wings to install/remove your battery then I would suggest you use the switch.

For comparison, I found that a full coat of Testors spray model paint to the TM is roughly 4-6 grams of added weight. That's about what you'd be adding with the switch.
Sep 23, 2002, 11:19 PM
Registered User
Leroy,
THANKS! I had wondered what the weight of a paint job was!

Could you PLEASE describe how you insert the Qualcomms in the fuselage??? I am still trying to figure out where to carve foam out. Do you mount them side by side or stacked on top of each other?

THANKS!
Rick
Sep 24, 2002, 02:18 AM
Registered User
Thanks again leroy!

Used the exacto to peel the film off. Worked great!
Feels good to finally start building!

Glued the wings up with Probond... Love it!
It sure foamed more than I expected though. More water means LESS foaming right? Great consistency though! Basically just a tough foam. Probably could build a plane from the stuff
Once I get the hang of different mixtures for different applications, I doubt I will use much else.

Was thinking of using it to join the struts also. Anybody use it there?

OK, back to cutting out struts!

Rick
Last edited by fogflyer; Sep 24, 2002 at 02:39 AM.
Sep 24, 2002, 05:42 AM
Registered User
ronnath's Avatar
yep, i used the probond on the struts. just a drop at each spot. and i stuck the point of an exacto knife into each indentation on the wings so that the glue would stick to foam rather than just the skin.

maybe you've already discovered this, but be sure to check out all the recommendations on reinforcing the struts - you'll find them a little "limber".

and a lot of guys use wing wires to firm up the whole assembly.
Sep 24, 2002, 08:05 AM
Registered User
LEROY's Avatar
I just widened the battery opening on the underside of the forward fuse to fit the QC 830's in. I did this prior to joining the halves and was able to use a razor knife. I suppose if your fuselage was already joined you could use a Dremel.

My battery has to sit about halfway over the leading edge of the lower wing to balance the aircraft properly.
Sep 24, 2002, 08:13 AM
an earth bound misfit, I
Basketcase's Avatar
Hi Rick, Probond is great stuff. When using it on the struts scuff up the ends of the struts a bit to give it some grip.

To fit both the Qualcoms and 370mah NiMH packs I cut 1/4 inch from each side of the battery compartment. Stuck some velcro on the roof of the compartment and on the battery packs. Makes it easy to adjust Cg and change packs.

I also cut out the part of the cowl over the battery compartment and removed the front of the compartment to allow flow thru cooling.

You said cutting out struts. The trick to plastic is bending it, sorta like glass cutting, you just need to score the surface, bend it and it will break along the line. The strut can be broken out by flexing the sheet, be careful at the corners where the braces are attached.

Wayne
Sep 24, 2002, 08:14 AM
an earth bound misfit, I
Basketcase's Avatar
Here's a pic of how I cut the battery compartment before gluing the fuse


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