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I have been collecting models at a fairly high rate lately, but there is always room for a B-29....
I have a 4 motor jones going on these days. Steve, watch for my upcoming thread on my micro Republic XF-12 Rainbow.....blue foam and depron, 4X M20 motors, 22" span, (1/72 scale) and well under 4 oz... |
Latest blog entry: My 2022 event schedule.
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B 29
Hi Jim, are the foam parts still availble?
I had my B 29 at the field today and there are 3 guys that want to build the big bird. I flew my B 29 today and lost an engine on the third flight, the Li-Po batteries are great but hard on the 400 brushed motors. Let us know on the foam, I know you have the plastic. Bill |
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OK, here is my first ever post.
Jim, I saw the article in RCM and ordered the plans. I was even more excited to find the thread here since it has much more information than the magazine. I'm pretty new to cutting foam. I did the forward section of the fuselage as you suggested by letting the bow drop onto and around the templates. That worked acceptibly, but not great. But I have ruined two aft sections trying to cut that round off-center taper. I finally realized that I let the wire get crossways between the small aft section and the large front section leaving a foam canal across the top of the fuse. Is there a clever technique for cutting this section? While I'm throwing out questions, how is the elevator hinged? I didn't find a reference but this thread has gotten pretty long and I might have missed it. I was assuming a hinge made of covering. Oh, finally, are there any plastic parts still available? I think the last reference I saw was $34 for a set. Please let me know how I could pay you for these. |
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CUtting foam
Hi P?,
For cutting the cone for the tail section, see if your significant other can help you out. Mark your templates like a clock and each of you manually move one end of the wire around the templates. Use the clock markings to make sure you're both at the same relative position. If you hold the cutting wire out side of the power clips, it will be cold. My elevator is hinged with the covering material. I recommend to use a strip on both sides to make it secure. If you're careful, you can also use CA hinges. Bill & Ted, Vulkanite is cutting the foam for me, his address is in the back of the RCM article or you can PM him here on the ezone. He is kind of hard to get a hold of, so be patient. I have plastic parts, they are US$35.00 and that includes shipping in the U.S. You can PayPal me at the address listed in the RCM article, except my ISP is SBCGLOBAL.NET and not SPCGLOBAL... Or I accept personal checks and my snail mail address is listed there as well. If using PayPal, PLEASE do NOT try to send a credit card payment. If I accept one credit card, PayPal has to upgrade my account and starts to take 2% to 4% of every transaction, and my margin is not that big on these parts. -Jim |
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Thanks, Jim.
It's Phil by the way. I think I fixed my profile so that shows up. I didn't have any help available last night but I realized after reading your post that it was a lot like tapered wing. I just anchored the cutting wire at the right height, did a little math, and cut a new one out by pulling the other end of the wire around the big template (I had both templates on). It came out pretty credibly except I was probably running a little hot on the small end. I never realized how much nichrome stretches when it is heated. Looking back at the pictures I noticed that you didn't hollow yours out until after you sheeted. My tail section is still solid (well, laminated) but I actually built my front section with a partial hollow so I could feed a wire through and then cut the full hollow. Did I goof? Does that keep the vacuum bag pressure from deforming the cylinder? I've done a couple of kits but I'm not what you would call a seasoned builder. Let's see... 2 questions down 998 to go.... I fired off the paypal for the nacelles and nose and I will follow that up with a regular e-mail to the same address so that you have my address. Thanks so much for doing that. There's now way you can be making any kind of real money doing this. |
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B-29 build secrets
Hi Phil,
I got your paypal and the parts will go out this week. I did hollow out the fuselage before vacuum bagging it. I just put back in the part I cut out. If you have some imperfections due to the hot wire, use some light filler (Carl Goldberg) to fill them in. This stuff sands like foam so you can true up your parts pretty easily. Use this to fill in around the aileron servo leads too. I used contact cement to sheet the fuse, and vacuum bagged the main tube just to make sure I got a good bond. I didn't bother with the tail section and it is doing fine. If you have a small cutout through your fuse, I don't think the vacuum will crush it. If you can control the pressure just dial it down. -Jim P.S. No I'm not make a lot of money on this, but now I have a friend in the Netherlands, a couple in Canada, a few in California, two in Hawaii, and now another one in Kansas. So I'm still getting rich! |
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Nice work fella's. I just wanted to say thanks, because although I am not building a B-29 (heresy!), I am scratchbuilding an Apollo 13 service and command module and hadn't worked out the mirror finish and all those rivets...Thank you for solving that for me. I'm out of here...
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Is anyone out there flying one of these beasties on Li-Po power?
I saw at Toledo where FMA was selling their 20C Li-Pos for a really good price and bought a couple of sets for my B29. Unfortunately, I hadn't done my homework ahead of time and at the time of my impulse buy I confused 7-cells and 7 volts(2S). Is there any way to compensate for the lower voltage by using a lower voltage motor (e.g. a 4.8v motor). Two of those batteries onboard would let me source 80 amps. Anyway, I was just curious for success or horror stories from other power plant configurations. |
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Yes, but you may even be able to use two of your packs in series. What are the voltages and mAh of the packs ?
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I am running a 2s2p 5200mah pack in my B29. The motors are 4x permex 6.0 volt speed 480 motors.Total current draw is about 48 amps. The props are 6.5x4 scale available from Hobby Lobby pn# GR6070P http://www.hobby-lobby.com/elecprop.htm The B-29 flys well on this set up. I also have B-17 running 4 permex 6vdc speed 400's. They also draw about 48 amps from the 2s2p LiPo. The controller is a Jeti 50 amp brushed JES50 now replaced by the JES60... I think you got the right battery...
I switch props and controller between the 2 planes.... Tom |
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Last edited by Tom in Cincy; Apr 25, 2005 at 04:05 PM.
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The batteries are the new Kokam 2100maH 20C 2S1P cells. I was planning on two in parallel making it effectively a 2S2P pack. Theoretically that makes them a nominal 7.4v at abou 84A maximum. (Though I doubt they would do both at the same time).
Now that I think of it I think I read elsewhere on the forum that 10A to a speed 400 motor is about the limit they want. Is that the reason for the 480s? My LHS was out of bananna to Deans charge cables and I still need to make a LiPo charging box out of leftover ceramic tile backer board so I haven't fired up the batteries yet. I was going to do some tests with the 6v Graupner and a 4.8v motor that I bought with the Whattmeter. I was planning on those Graupner props. Tom, do you know what your motor terminal voltage is at full throttle? Maybe I'm worried over nothing. Actually, that probably goes for those flying Nickel batteries as well. Can anyone flying on a 7cell or 8cell pack tell me what motor terminal voltage they are experiencing with all four turning at power? If the pack and wire resistance is lower on the LiPos maybe that makes up for the extra cell difference. It's the voltage delivered to the motor that matters, isn't it? Well, if this post doesn't peg me for an e-flight rookie, nothing will. |
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