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Eric,
I have used lead duck decoy weight strips, they are thin and easily cut with scissors, and can be attached as needed. Also, I recommend using bb's or lead shot mixed with epoxy. Put the correct amount of weight in a plastic bag, and mix with epoxy, then pour as required. It would great for hard contours and such. Eric |
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A model the size of yours will need a fairly large amount of wieght.I start off by using the largest batteries I can.This takes care of most of the ballasting and gives you more runtime. I have a large plastic kiddie pool which makes a good controlled environment. I place the model in the pool and add ziplock bags with BB's in them,adding BB'sand moving bags around until I have the ship exactly at the waterline(if your ship is mostly finished,ie not much more weight to be added by construction)Then I take the bags out,one at a time and put a small amount of epoxy in and knead it around in the bag with my fingers.Then put it back where you got it from and continue until all the bags are placed.I use a piece of velcro to hold the bags in place,this way I can move them for fine tuning or remove them if I add something later and need to remove weight. I think you will be surprised at how much weight it will take,especially if your batteries arent very large/heavy.Have fun!!
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Thread OP
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Self adhesive lead tire weights from JC Whitney were all I need for stability. She floats ladies and gentlemen, and the water stays out of the people tank. Whooooo Hoooooo!!!!!
Here are some pics! |
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Congratulations on getting the hull wet!
Can she make those tight turns in your pond?!? ![]() How much more work till she is underway? |
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Thread OP
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Got some more work done. I am not pleased with some of the paint (painting in bad light), but hey the paint wasn't perfect on my ship so why should it be on this one.
Some of the detail work is not perfect, but this model is going to be for driving so what the heck. |
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A few vents, some conduit, bumps, boxes and doors,... and the railings...
You have it practically finished. The white striping looks good too. Just need a SH-60b Seahawk LAMPS MK III on the stern. ![]() |
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Quote:
lake. I mis- numbered mine and made the radome too small but what the hell, I like it and it sails super. When you get frustrated just leave the model alone and have a beer. Regards Norman2 |
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boats and do not have good quality. The Arleigh Burke, Ticonderoga and Belknap Cruisers were designed later and have excellent quality and better instructions. They are easier for R/C because they have a wider beam and have more space for electronics. Regards and Good Luck |
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Shifter3, I'm building the FFG as well. You wouldn't happen to have any more under body shots would you. I'm looking for details, the drive line stuff was great. I learned a lot.
Thanks much for posting the pictures you've posted. Jerome |
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Thread OP
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Hope these help.
ImagesView all Images in thread |
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Thread OP
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Quote:
Really they are just two huge 360 degree trainable trolling motors. |
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Last edited by shifter3; Jul 26, 2007 at 12:41 PM.
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