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Mar 21, 2011, 03:37 PM
Registered User
Hey guys, I just thought anyone interested might benefit from this. One of the guys on another forum found these and pm'd me a few days back. He has already received his stock and built some extended shafts using this,
EDITED
http://www.huronindustrial.com/mm5/m...Store_Code=his
I placed a large order and am going to build and stock pile some extended shafts using carbon fibre rod as the upper spacer. I have literally had a ton of guys contacting me and wanting to make their own so this is your opportunity!
Last edited by Luvmyhelis; Mar 22, 2011 at 12:17 AM.
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Mar 21, 2011, 04:33 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis
Hey guys, I just thought anyone interested might benefit from this. One of the guys on another forum found these and pm'd me a few days back. He has already received his stock and built some extended shafts using this,
http://www.huronindustrial.com/mm5/m...Store_Code=his
I placed a large order and am going to build and stock pile some extended shafts using carbon fibre rod as the upper spacer. I have literally had a ton of guys contacting me and wanting to make their own so this is your opportunity!
Link doesnt work when I try
Latest blog entry: Random Pictures ...
Mar 22, 2011, 12:19 AM
Registered User
Weird, I re pasted it this time off the original site and it still did not work. Did it again and now it does!
Mar 22, 2011, 12:44 AM
Hobby Enthusiast
LMH,

I just bought some O-1 a while back. It's not as strong as you might want. I'd be glad to ship you a piece so you can check it out first. Also, check McMaster before you buy from there as they usually have better deals. (not always though). I would only use it for the canopy mount pieces and not the inner shaft. It will work, but it will also bend easier than the stock.

Go with a good Tungsten based High Speed steel or a hard Stainless.
Mar 22, 2011, 03:38 AM
Registered User
kodak_jack's Avatar
You can make extended shafts as long as you want using drill rod or other steels. You have to have a way to adjust for the extend as far as the outer shaft goes. The piece that GloWorm made for me, which resembles the Skytec and other shafts allows for this. Even piano wire will work and is readily available at your lhs.
Mar 22, 2011, 03:50 AM
Registered User
Thanks Tim! This drill rod so far is all I have been able to find in the U.S. so far with the actual 2mm dia. One of the guys at HF has this already and is far from a newb, he told me it is even tough to cut. But if you have already tried it, bummer, it looks like I will have to break out my torch and mig and create some metal art with it instead. Do you have a link for any 2mm tungsten? I am going to put some effort into this and make a jig with the correct notch stops so I can crank out some of these for the guys on the dirt cheap affordable side for $4 or $5 maybe. By the way I scrapped the china Vtails order and just got in a brand new GWS that I need to send back to you to replace the one you shipped to me to get me by. Many Thanks Bro!!!
I just like the thought that I can adjust up my gain with the Dionysus without a hint of blade movement while handling the heli with the batt engaged.
Mar 22, 2011, 04:01 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack
You can make extended shafts as long as you want using drill rod or other steels. You have to have a way to adjust for the extend as far as the outer shaft goes. The piece that GloWorm made for me, which resembles the Skytec and other shafts allows for this. Even piano wire will work and is readily available at your lhs.
Not at any of my local HS's! Every piece both of them carry is in american standard. And the piano wire I was looking for that Tony recommended for some reason never surfaced anywhere in a 2mm. The local machine shops want to rape me, no kidding!
For guys not wanting the skytec adjustable upper bearing support Helitec-rc was just using nylon tubing in between the upper support and upper assembly as a spacer, and from what I understand is planning on using an aluminum spacer in the future or something equivalent. Tony was pretty open in several threads about how he made them and has repeatedly told guys to build their own if possible. I have no plans on starting a business, I just want to help in the meantime.
Mar 22, 2011, 10:49 AM
Hobby Enthusiast
LMH,

Just use some High Speed Steel/Hard Stainless instead. The O-1 drill rod is not quite as hard. I can send you a length if you want to try it. Maybe I'm wrong. It seemed very week compared to ever the stock inner shaft.
Mar 22, 2011, 11:02 AM
Hobby Enthusiast
Ok, here we go:

Depending where you look and the process during manufacturing:
O-1 Tool Steel: 55-65 HRC (Rockwell Hardness)

316-Stainless: ~80 HRC
304-Stainless: ~85-95 HRC

There you go. McMaster has all of those in a 2mm. Make sure you get 2mm undersized. It will not fix your bearings if you get 2mm (0.0787") exact. Somewhere around 1.98+mm should slip fit just fine. Try maybe 0.078" in English units.
Mar 22, 2011, 01:13 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim2Go
Ok, here we go:

Depending where you look and the process during manufacturing:
O-1 Tool Steel: 55-65 HRC (Rockwell Hardness)

316-Stainless: ~80 HRC
304-Stainless: ~85-95 HRC

There you go. McMaster has all of those in a 2mm. Make sure you get 2mm undersized. It will not fix your bearings if you get 2mm (0.0787") exact. Somewhere around 1.98+mm should slip fit just fine. Try maybe 0.078" in English units.
Yeah, it is pretty well known that if you get anything even slightly fatter than 2mm or .0787 you have some sanding to do. At .077 you hit american standard such as Rcvd and the shaft will rattle around in the upper bearing support and the lower gear has a tendency to wobble. I have a quote from Tony at Hlitc-rc on page 5 of the vtail forum when we were discussing this way back when, Quote "K&S .78" #505 wire is what you should be getting. It should actually be a bit of a tight fit, but never loose".
and they are so far the toughest shafts I have tested on a gap scale and the fit was good. K&S, McMaster here I come!
Last edited by Luvmyhelis; Mar 22, 2011 at 01:31 PM.
Mar 22, 2011, 01:44 PM
Hobby Enthusiast
LMH,

Go for it brother! I haven't flown in weeks. I've been rock crawling. But every time I see my heli sitting all alone, I feel guilty. I might fly her today for some time.

-Tim
Mar 22, 2011, 03:12 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim2Go
LMH,

Go for it brother! I haven't flown in weeks. I've been rock crawling. But every time I see my heli sitting all alone, I feel guilty. I might fly her today for some time.

-Tim
If it weren't so nasty windy rainy outside I would pop the GWS into my dualswash and take it for an outside spin myself! As it is I have my 450 size CP torn down and am relocating all the flight stability, gyro, and electrical components around to what I feel might be more appropriate spots so I can mount a two axis bubble level using the stock gyro location. I just completed and tested another Vtail system yesterday that I was going to post a vid of. I built a box to mount the motors on and had the esc's, gyro, Rx, and all the vtail mixers laid out, bound up the TX and had a successful test run. But when I plugged the China minicam into my laptop after documenting everything I lost everything, including my computer internet capability. Weird! So I was up til 3am reprogramming the laptop. I even lost my IP!
Oddly the firms that sell the rod don't have a normal web based site so I am making phone calls to get the info I need. I will let you know.
Now that I think about it Mcmaster was one of the companies that I tried earlier but could only find rod in AS measurements. It jumps from .075 to .080 in all the spots I looked at. I must have missed something.
Last edited by Luvmyhelis; Mar 22, 2011 at 03:45 PM.
Mar 22, 2011, 03:43 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis
If it weren't so nasty windy rainy outside I would pop the GWS into my dualswash and take it for an outside spin myself! As it is I have my 450 size CP torn down and am relocating all the flight stability, gyro, and electrical components around to what I feel might be more appropriate spots so I can mount a two axis bubble level using the stock gyro location. I just completed and tested another Vtail system yesterday that I was going to post a vid of. I built a box to mount the motors on and had the esc's, gyro, Rx, and all the vtail mixers laid out, bound up the TX and had a successful test run. But when I plugged the China minicam into my laptop after documenting everything I lost everything, including my computer internet capability. Weird! So I was up til 3am reprogramming the laptop. I even lost my IP!
Oddly the firms that sell the rod don't have a normal web based site so I am making phone calls to get the info I need. I will let you know.
not sure if we are talking about the same McMaster-Carr ... in NJ - but I had no probs ordering from their website today (for some more of my CF/aluminum battery tray/skid combos for more than just the stock battery ...
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Mar 22, 2011, 03:47 PM
Registered User
Nice work Sven, I was just posting that when I was on their site I must have missed something as I could not locate the right size rod there in november. Just looking again with the same results. They have 2mm but nothing undersized. Might just have to sand some.
Mar 23, 2011, 05:10 AM
Registered User
bulesz's Avatar
A little offtopic, but as I have red that you are thinking about CF shaft addon, good to know that the 120SR has CF shaft! very nice coz no bending...and very strong! maybe it could be a good idea of modding the CX2... using a stable CF rod as the external shaft...


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