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Sure looks like the same plane with some white on the nose. Maybe it is a copy? I might wait for a review but from pictures it looks pretty good. My original from 10 years back finally crashed last year after 400-500 flights and three midair collisions. Hope it is the same and spare parts also show up as I still have most of the series.
Cheers--Stacker |
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Good luck on the spare parts.. I hope but often wonder...!!
I measured quite accurately my wingspan... Aileron tip to aileron tip... Not the wing.. And I get HK's exact measurement of 925 mm's..! I see the control horns and everything to of the same/same as Electrifly.. Its got to be ...no? Only thing I see HKs is missing (at least in the photos) is the side louver plates... |
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I noticed the missing side parts also. Maybe they are included and just left off photo plane. looks like there is also a tail skid wire along with the wood skid? Kinda wish they were selling air frame like the originals as I have so much extra gear from past planes.
Cheers--Stacker |
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I recently obtained a never flown Great Planes Fokker DVII. I plan on installing an AR737T and an Avian ESC for telemetry.
I scratch built a DV7 from magazine plans that was way off scale but she flew great with an 15 size glow engine. I’m anxious to fly this scale rendition on a 1300 3S 30C SMART lipo with my NX 6 radio. Our club has a Geotech runway that will help in preventing nose overs. I use a 5 second Throttle Cut power delay that gradually accelerates the model rather than jamming the throttle. |
Latest blog entry: UMX Conscendo aileron connection
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D7 restoration modsQuote:
I will be installing an Avian 30 A ESC so I can use reverse thrust on roll out. The thrust vector will prevent the nose over when rolling out on landing. Practicing with the I button on the DX and NX transmitter is required since it requires rudder steering and pushing the button at the same time when decelerating. Reverse thrust is like gyro stabilization. You don’t need it but it sure makes operating models much easier. I’ve been converting most of my models to reverse thrust even my motor gliders with flaps as it slows the model down in the approach/ descent phase of flight. Mike’s review on his first post states: The DVII is NOT at all hard to fly and does not exhibit any bad behavior. However, it does not exhibit any self-correcting responses, something a beginner needs. In 2006 we did not have gyro stabilized technology so……. I have installed an AR637T with Forward Programming for SAFE select. Flight Modes on the B switch are B0= “Self Level” for take off, landing, and cruising. B1 for “Circle Mode” for left aileron, left rudder, trim for a hands off left hand circle. And B2 for “Manual” for aerobatics where aileron to rudder mix is turned off. The stock prop vibrates and I will be replacing it with a wood prop. The 1250 Electrifly Lipo was OK in 2006. The 1300 3S 30C SMART LiPo is better and telemetry alerting tells me when voltage is time to land. My Chuck Cunningham’s D7 Glo woody flew great and had a tail wheel. I’ll try the tail skid but may cheat with a wheel on the rudder. The previous owner lost the paper manual. Does anyone have a PDF manual they can post? |
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Latest blog entry: UMX Conscendo aileron connection
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