Boomers!! Parkflyers for Beginners to Pros! Vid post 125 - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Feb 06, 2007, 09:11 PM
Embedded Systems Engineer
MX's Avatar
Originally Posted by Butch777
Yup, the elevons are now ailerons and you'll need a "Y" connector to hook up the servos. Since its not a Wing anymore, no reflex is needed, just line the ailerons up with the cord line(the same as the booms).
The C/G changes. Most wings are fron about 15-22% back from the leading edge. The Boomer is like a standard plane, about 27-30% back. Butch
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Feb 11, 2007, 08:39 PM
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When I maidened the outrunner version, it wasn't windy, but the Boomer seemed a bit more sensitive than the IPS version, even though they are built almost identical.
The second time I took it out, I could see the new Berg 4L rx was glitching. That suprised me a lot, because I have probably over 30 Berg rx's that work great. Even though I did have a couple bad ones, but CC replaced them.

So I got a break from the rain today and went out with the IPS and the outrunner version Boomers, a GWS Formosa and a extra Tx, new Berg4L and new crystals. The wind didn't let up though, it was 14mph and gusting, according to the airport a couple miles away.
The outrunner Boomer flew great, but it was so gusty, I couldn't tell if it was glitching or not. So I just kept some distance from the ground and played in the wind.
It had plenty of power to fight the wind, but when I brought it in, right about 6" off the ground, the wind shifted and blew it away like a tumble weed. But no biggie. its EPP!
Then I flew the Formosa, its 350/lipo powered, but it was too windy for it, it needs more power.
So then I flew the IPS Boomer. I had it stationary about 20 ft up, for a few minutes!
Even with the little IPS motor, it was flying just fine. Of course it was getting blown around quite a bit, but had enough control authority and power to deal with it.
Now to wait for a calm day to figure out the glitching. Butch
Feb 12, 2007, 11:31 PM
Embedded Systems Engineer
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Here's a thread on my WildCat build so far:

Feb 13, 2007, 10:39 PM
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praymond's Avatar
Hi Butch77

I'm putting together a lite weight cd boomer, using a wing from a HL shinden kit. It's a bit smaller wing, 31 1/2" and 235sq in.

Got the cf booms glued on, and was wondering if you just ca'd the VS's to the booms. Is that rugged enough? I plan to use blucor or cellfoam 88.

Also is there any motor thurst angles to build in to the motor mount? Plan to use a 20T cd and 9050 prop???

I'll post a pic when I get the tail built. Any other considerations I should think about??


Feb 13, 2007, 11:26 PM
Registered User
For the vertical stabs, I epoxied them on. I hardly ever use CA any more on foam.
On all my Flying Wings and Boomers, I use the cord line to set up the booms and motor angle. As long as the motor is not mounted much higher or lower than the cord line, there's no need for any angle. Even the IPS version is on the cord line and flys fine, even inverted.
On your maiden, do a glide test over tall grass, rx on, incase it dives, but no power.
Do a meddium throw first. If that goes well, give it a hard throw and then add 50% power. I had one builder just glue the motor mount on, without alining it and when he addes full power, it went stright into the ground, hard.
If your motor angle is good, when you add 50% power, it should go stright with just a little climb and climb more at full power, depending on your airfoil. Butch
Feb 16, 2007, 09:16 PM
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OK, here's my progress so far. Booms and motor mounting tube parallel with wing cord, body just rough cut till I find the CG and battery position. I tried tossing it at a couch in the house with it balanced about mid chord for kicks, but there's not enough room for a glide(wife wasn't around!). I'll have to glide it tomorrow into a snow bank.

Thinking I'll use 2 aileron servos, so I can set up differential on the radio if I need it

When I test glide it(no gear on it), should it want to rise some at the first of the toss, or should i move the testing weights for a flat glide???

I hope to get it to fly like you describe, and be able to take some wind
Feb 16, 2007, 10:42 PM
Registered User
The glide test can be deceptive if not done right. I threw a 18" Boomer in my front yard before I cut out the battery hole and it seemed to glide ok. But when I took it out to fly it, it was way out of ballance. On a 18" plane, I had the C/G off almost a inch! So make sure you give it a good meddium hard toss, just a few degrees upward.
When I toss the Wild-Cat Boomers to launch them, they'll gilde about 40ft! Not too bad for a powered plane. Butch
Feb 20, 2007, 10:16 PM
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Hi Butch

Got another question for you-- I'm setting up my Optic6 and the servos now (2 for ailerons), do I need to program in some differential in?? I think I read that you used some differential.

The glide test went good I think, got it to glide straight for about 30' with a good toss.

I had to reprogram over the memory for my P38, was bummed, but I won't be flying that till the snow's gone-- I need more memory!!


Feb 20, 2007, 10:34 PM
Registered User
I just put in some mechanical differential. It should fly without it, but it helps in the tighter, slower turns, when your using lots of deflection.
Why don't you just add a little and after you get used to flying the Boomer, try it without and see how it effects the turns? Butch
Feb 20, 2007, 10:59 PM
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When you say mechanical diff, do you just set the servo arms so they are pointing back towards the aileron some ( servo on top of wing)??
Feb 20, 2007, 11:29 PM
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Yup, that way it's over center to the rear and pulls more movement forward, which is up aileron travel. Butch
Feb 22, 2007, 10:04 PM
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Seeing how well these Boomers fly at low speed, I decided to try and make a
Ultra-Lite Wild-Cat Boomer. Wow that's a mouthfull!
When I built the Pocket-Cat Boomer, 18" wing, at about 2.5ozs, I thought it would go alot slower than the 31"WW Boomer.
But its not so slow and actually it zipps around and does ok in a lot of wind!
So to build it light and slow, but to fly in the wind and to be maneuverable and crash resistant, I used a WW core and carbonfiber. Again with the LPS motor, Berg 4L, and Bluebird 303's.
So far I've cut a WW down to 25" wingspan and I'm cutting out the wing to make it look like a uncovered balsa wing, with leading and trailing edge, with ribs and tips, so I can cover it with light weight covering. I've about got the wings cut out and there down to 14grams without covering. The covering looks to be about 4 grams. And for the tail and ailerons, I'll use carbonfiber rod, covered.
So far it looks like under 2ozs, with a 25" WildWing airfoil, so it will hopefully handle some wind. I'll post some pics soon. Butch
Feb 25, 2007, 04:44 PM
Registered User
I still got a problem with the Berg 4L in the outrunner version Wild-Cat Boomer.
Yesterday I went out flying with the boys. I took the IPS, outrunner Wild-cat Boomers and the LPS-Pocket Boomer, a Stryker-Lite and my PC-9-Lite. There all Berg 4L rx's.
The Stryker is on ch29, the rest, except the outrunner Boomer, is on ch34.
All of them flew great with no glitches. I saved the outrunner Boomer for last,to check it out and waited till no one else was flying. It was still glitching off and on, and then about 20ft up, about 70-80ft out, it just took a nose dive stright into the ground at full speed. Man that pisses me off. I've swiched crystals, tried different tx's and even two other planes on the same channel are messig up and even flying at 3 different flying sites, 5 miles apart!!
The Boomer broke the EPP nose off clean. Real easy to fix. But I've got way over 10 other planes on ch46, with Berg 4L's in them and my traingng planes and buddy box set-up is ch 46. I'll have to wait for good, calm weather and take a bunch of EPP planes, tx's, rx's, crystals and batts out to see what the heck's going on. Butch
Feb 25, 2007, 11:21 PM
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WildCat Boomer questions

Hi Butch, Your WildCat boomer thread made me want to build one. I just received 2 of the wildcat planes.

(a) Assume you use a hot wire bow to narrow it by 3.5". I do not have a hot wire bow, other than a soldering gun with wire loop that I use to cut holes for servos. Is there another method besides a hot wire bow to narrow the plane?
(b) Also just retired an old PC and have a 48x CD motor available. Can these be used as is with good success?
(c) Are there any more instructions for building a boomer. I haven't done much of this custom stuff and am tempted to go with the easier lite version, but it sounds like that is a huge step down in performance from the boomer. So I want to try the boomer. Questions on things like what epoxy to use on the boom, where to buy depron, ...?

Any help would be appreciated. Have a great day!
Feb 25, 2007, 11:47 PM
Registered User
So you just picked up 2 Wild Wings. Good, just post your questions here so others can benifit and I'll do my best to answer them. Just make sure to read the whole thread carefully, then ask what you may.
The Lite version WW was done to compair it to the same size and set-up in a Boomer version. All who have seen the two of them fly, say that there is no compairison, the Boomer flys great.
As for the 3.5 cut, I use a new snap-off knife. I get them at the dollar store.
Measure several places to find the centerline, then measure out 1 3/4" on each side. I use a flexable steel rule on the top side. Make a light cut first and take it slow. Then keep cutting carefully watching the angle of your knife. After the first cut, snap off the first blade before you make the second cut. Then I use 120 grit sandpaper to fine fit the halves together. After the cut, mark the cord line on each half to cut your motor mount slot, depending on what motor you run.
I just went out with the boys yesterday and the IPS powered Boomer just flys great. I was flying along at about 60%power, 15ft up and it would snap loop and keep on flying without loosing almost any altitude. The guys just couldn't believe it. I can set you up with a IPS motor, ESC, prop and batt, all new as well as fuselage and depron.

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