Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Jun 09, 2008, 04:25 AM
Butch777 is offline
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Originally Posted by jasper135
Butch, where do I make the battery pack slot on the fuse nose? How far ahead or behind the wing leading edge?

Thanks,

Jasper135
The batt slot is totaly dependent on the weight of the batt!
I mark the C/G and tape the batt on to get it to ballance there.
Then go test fly it and move the batt around till I get the elevator level at medium speeds. Them re-mark the new C/G and then cut the batt slot so that when the batt is mounted, the Boomer ballances exactaly on the new C/G. Butch
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Old Jun 10, 2008, 10:13 PM
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diverdon - I responded to your separate mail to me but here is a repost (for the full size no cut boomer)

Hi diveron - been away from the computer a bit.
The CG at 8 3/8 inches is good, particularly if there is some wind. 8 1/2 works well. I would start out at 8 3/8" with reduced throws on the ailerons, say to 50%. Once all is well, then try moving the CG back to 8 1/2 - try it out and then increase the throws. Glad to help out

(ps 1st try some glides with the battery hooked up but use only the ailerons and elevator and not the motor to test the CG)
Old Jun 10, 2008, 10:19 PM
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Hi, Jasper thanks for feedback!!

I used basic spray paint from lowes or home depot.
I've also used floral spray paint from, say, Michaels, or a similar general hobby shop.
The spray paint templates I downloaded from RCgroups.com; (search for paint templates?)
Note that I build the full-size no-cut boomer heavy.
I'll either build, or if butch is selling parts, buy, a 3.5 cut ww boomer which I'll try to keep as light as possible.
The paint on the bottom does help a lot to keep me oriented.

"aeroknot"
Old Jun 11, 2008, 11:38 PM
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Hello all ,
I finally got the boomer done ... What a dummy I am .. Tried to Build it with a longer boom thinking it would make it more stable .. Well I can tell you that's a mistake as it threw the COG Waaaaay off .. I redid it with a way shorter and smaller Boom so the COG is right on .. Hope to try it tomorrow morn so I took a couple of pictures which may be the last time you seeit .. Before it crashes ...
Old Jun 18, 2008, 01:32 AM
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While working on my ww-boomer, I totally messed up today and killed a servo. Damn... Ok, I still have lots to learn. Lacking a Y adapter I soldered two servo leads to together to have the same effect but I messed it up. I soldered the white wire to the white wire of one of the servos to the other then I soldered the red to the black and the back to the red thinking that this will reverse them and so I will have aileron control. Wrong. Servo totally dead and now I realize that maybe you guys are connecting them together, white to white, red to red, black to black, but just flipping the other servo up-side-down... is this correct?
Anyway, I'm ordering another servo to replace it, any advice is very much appreciated. I'm dying to get in the air.

Thanks,

Jasper135
Old Jun 18, 2008, 04:43 AM
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Yup, the "Y" harness just flips the servo to get the needed opposite deflection of the ailerons.
We're here to help, just ask.
Old Jun 18, 2008, 04:54 AM
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I was given a couple 3.7g servos to test for free!
So I've been deciding what to build. I have a bunch of Depron, so I'm working up a plan for a smaller Boomer, about 16-18"s.
Running the UH 5g outrunner, maybe a 5x3 prop, 2 cell, lightened Berg rx and 6g ESC. Target weight is well under 3ozs and the standard WW Boomer shape will be used to keep it simple.
I haven't decided on either a 6mm depron wing or a 2mm skinned, airfoiled wing.
I'll post some pics when I go from paper to Depron. Butch
Old Jun 18, 2008, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butch777
Yup, the "Y" harness just flips the servo to get the needed opposite deflection of the ailerons.
We're here to help, just ask.
I'm not sure why I'm confused about this y adapter thingy... I thought all a Y harness did was to attach two servos the the same channel and make them move identical in the same direction... but you mean to say this Y harness also makes them move opposite to each other? Or are you flipping one of the servos around? Are there different kinds of Y adapters? You guys don't use an in-line servo reverser as well? Because I look at your pics and the servos look like they are glued in in the way that you would need a servo reverser, no?....

Sorry about this guys, something even this simple confuses me lol

Jasper135
Old Jun 18, 2008, 01:41 PM
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LOL... I think I know where I went wrong... ok, had I just wired up the two servos the same, white to white, red to red, and black to black, it would have been fine with the the servos positioned exactly the same as you guys (like I had it, except I messed up the wiring, red to back and back to red) oooooh k.... I think I finally get it now

and I'm embarrassed now...

Jasper
Old Jun 18, 2008, 01:53 PM
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Yes, Both servos move exactaly the same. But they lay opposite of each other, so they move opposite of each other! Take a close look at the build page 24 and other pics of the Boomer servo set-up. Butch
Old Jun 18, 2008, 02:32 PM
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Looking forward to your new build, Butch! Sounds like it'll be a nice, light, small area flier.
Old Jun 18, 2008, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butch777
Yes, Both servos move exactaly the same. But they lay opposite of each other, so they move opposite of each other! Take a close look at the build page 24 and other pics of the Boomer servo set-up. Butch
Thanks Butch. The old noggin not working properly these days, maybe I'm gettin old

Makes total sense now.

Jasper135

P.S. pics of my finished boomer coming soon! (I better take them before any crashes lol!)
Old Jun 18, 2008, 07:15 PM
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We're all gittin old!
You really don't need to start worrying till you forget to lift the toilet lid!!! Butch
Old Jun 20, 2008, 02:55 PM
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gosh... ran into another little problem, maybe you guys can help. I installed the elevator servo, connected the rod to the control surface etc, everything set up just right, then when I test it I get servo jitter when I center the stick. It seems to only happen after giving it some up and centering the stick... pretty annoying... Any advice guys?

Am I forcing the micro servo too much or is it just because I'm using cheap servos? The ones I use for the ailerons work fine with no jitter so I'm assuming that the other servo is not liking the longer rod to the elevator control surface?... Anyone else have this type of problem? Maybe I should just glue the servo on the fin just near the control surface and use a much smaller rod?...

The rods I'm using are semi-rigid kevlar-epoxy rods push/pulled through teflon tubing (I've always wanted to use these materials and thought it would be a perfect and smooth moving combo, but now not so sure...it could just be the cheapo micro servos)

Thanks for the help folks, much appreciated

Jasper135
Old Jun 20, 2008, 06:01 PM
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I always check my servos for the jutters before I glue them in. You'll need to make sure its not binding. Maybe disconnect the rod and move it by hand to see if it moves easily. We just use a simple 1/2" sleve in the middle of the elevator rod.

If you move the servo too far back, you might need a extension(extra weight) and then you'll have to move the batt more forward to ballance it. Butch


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