Thread Tools
Oct 11, 2006, 07:31 PM
Dismembered Member...
arx_n_sparx's Avatar
Is that DAP stuff the lightweight stuff? You'll know it is if you pick up a full tub of it - and could swear it's empty.,,,.....

http://www.lepageproducts.com/produc...id=311&PID=704
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Oct 11, 2006, 07:31 PM
Dismembered Member...
arx_n_sparx's Avatar
Interfacing method: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ht=interfacing
Oct 12, 2006, 01:49 AM
Flashmeister Aviation Inc
MrFlash's Avatar
Thread OP
Cheers for the Spackle info fellas, dont think Ive ever seen it this side of the pond. Can u spray paint it with foam freindly paint once its sanded or would that mush it (hippo, that one really confused me till I read the posts further down ..nice one dude )


Quote:
Originally Posted by arx_n_sparx
Flash: How are you holding that canopy on? Looks like toothpicks and buttons?

Brad
Hi Brad,

Youve got sharp eyes !, yup toothpicks and mini plastic rivets, Canopy holes locate on the toothpicks and then the rivets just push into the EPP with a little dab of UHU just to stop it flying off during "extreme manuovers" ...lol . All the gears under the canopy so its nice to get easy access. I was tempted to glue the whole thing down but this seems to do the trick just fine.


Some great building tecniques there..never sen the intefacing / elmers / spackle thing ...who comes up with these brand names
Oct 12, 2006, 01:38 PM
Flashmeister Aviation Inc
MrFlash's Avatar
Thread OP
Cheers Ubildit ! . Working on a another bigger outdoor foamy over the next few months (probably a 34" Edge / Extra ) using similar constion. Might see if this is a a new finishing method . Why dont you recommend it with EPP, does it not fill the holes or melt it or something ??

Thanks again for the info and photos
Oct 12, 2006, 03:10 PM
Victoria Super Mortem
UBILDIT's Avatar

Sorry


Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFlash
Cheers Ubildit ! . Working on a another bigger outdoor foamy over the next few months (probably a 34" Edge / Extra ) using similar constion. Might see if this is a a new finishing method . Why dont you recommend it with EPP, does it not fill the holes or melt it or something ??

Thanks again for the info and photos
Sorry Mr Flash,
What I meant was that multiple coatings and sandings would not be necessary for the Ultimate. The one I'm working on in the picture is going to be set up for very high speed, so every little microscopic thing makes a difference. For the Ultimate, probably after the separate parts were assembled, 1 good coat of light spackle and a sanding would be sufficient to make it smooth. I think after 1 good coat of spackle and sanding you could even spray on polyurathene for an even smoother coat then apply the monokote etc... and yes it fills in the tiny little craters very well. I built a profile Bipe out of EPP and it was very draggy going through the air.. Yours looks a lot more sleek and those videos were fantastic. I was just wanting to cover one to see how it performed if any different. I certainly don't think I could get it to do any better.

Thanks for the encouragement.. and yes when you pick up even a large tub of this light stuff in the hardware store... it does feel empty.

Bo
Oct 12, 2006, 04:16 PM
Dismembered Member...
arx_n_sparx's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFlash
Cheers for the Spackle info fellas, dont think Ive ever seen it this side of the pond. Can u spray paint it with foam freindly paint once its sanded or would that mush it (hippo, that one really confused me till I read the posts further down ..nice one dude )

...who comes up with these brand names
Flash: I've never thought of the names before - it's just something that has always been. Kinda like you don't think about why the sky is blue - until a kid asks you

The lightweight spackle is meant for filling dents and dings and holes in drywall/plaster. I guess part of its make up *is* plaster, but they also have some other stuff in there - including micro-balloons believe it or not.

The easiest way to sand this stuff is actually not to sand it - instead get a damp rag and wipe things down. Any spackle sticking up above the surface will be "washed" off. This is great for keeping the dust down. I do this for the primary sanding, but the second light coat that's the prep for paint gets sanded.

This stuff should take just about any paint you can throw at it, Flash. Seeing as it's water based, you could try adding a bit of latex paing or even food colouring to help things. This stuff *is* notorious for sucking up the first coat of paint/primer, however - just be aware of that.

Brad
Oct 13, 2006, 06:14 AM
Flashmeister Aviation Inc
MrFlash's Avatar
Thread OP

Flexible ???


Cheers Brad , any idea how flexible it is ??

This EPP tends to bend a little when u attempt K/E landings

Plane survived perfectly BTW
Oct 13, 2006, 07:24 AM
Victoria Super Mortem
UBILDIT's Avatar

flexible


I've been told that unless you apply it too thick, it will remain flexible along with the individual cells that make up the EPP. The best way to ensure that it stays where it belongs is by using water based polyurathene or gorilla glue to cover the spackle and then use a coating to cover that.
As I said earlier, I think just the spackle some smoothing..like Brad said and then a coating like econokote would be perfect for the Ultimate. Should hold up well.

Bo
Oct 13, 2006, 04:37 PM
Dismembered Member...
arx_n_sparx's Avatar

flexible? not.........


Spackle has no flex when it's dry. IF you use it on EPP, you're relying on the foam to flex - and praying the spackle doesn't fall out. I use this stuff on EPS foamies to fill holes and dents, but I wouldn't use it on EPP. Other folks have - but they then cover it with a plastic "kote" of some sort.

Brad
Oct 13, 2006, 05:45 PM
Victoria Super Mortem
UBILDIT's Avatar

Exactly


Brad is right!
If you use the light spackle on EPP, it will not flex well. Most people that put it on EPP, sand it down then cover it with a light coat of WBPU (I just found out that is Water Based PolyUrathene...) or Gorilla Glue. Some just sand it smooth then spray the 3m77 on it, let it dry and put their heat iron on 2... or at the 12:00 position and apply econokote or monokote...something light, and at that setting it does more sticking than shrinking up, so as not to warp the pieces you are covering. When covered, the spackle tends to stay in place better on EPP and the Flying Wing People love it. Vyceroy uses it on many of his scratchbuilt models of FFF before applying the "varnish" and then paint to make it purdy...

Bo
Oct 14, 2006, 02:24 PM
Flashmeister Aviation Inc
MrFlash's Avatar
Thread OP
Many thanks fellas, never heard of these tecniques before.

Appreciate it gents
Oct 16, 2006, 08:29 AM
Victoria Super Mortem
UBILDIT's Avatar

Amazing


I got the fuselage together over the weekend and before I started any other processes, I weighed the fuselage and it was 1.5 oz. I was shocked. Awesome was my first thought. So then I started to apply the light spackle. I did part of the fuse, 1 side of the elevator, and 1 side of both wing struts before I had to go to bed..it was late. Here's a picture or two. I built up the turtle deck with the spackling a little to make it round. Also discovered the Black and Decker Mouse ...hand sander with rounding edge sanding attachment. Great looking so far. Can't wait to get her done and in the air. It will also be interesting to see how much it weighs after spackle and covering.. Thanks Mr. Flash. Great plans and everything.

Bo
Oct 16, 2006, 11:43 AM
Flashmeister Aviation Inc
MrFlash's Avatar
Thread OP
Lookin good Bo !

Really glad you like it so far & the weight seems spot on.

My finished plane weighed a little over 12oz with the big heavier wheels and I thought it would struggle but it flys a treat. I reckon you could still haul it happily at over 13oz with the right motor. If yours comes out below (it seems like it should quite easily ) you should end up with a great flyer .

Dont forget to put a little down & right thrust to the motor (anywhere between 2 and 5 degrees ) to help it track straight on high revs, it also lets you bank better into right hand turns. Without it, bipes this size with biggish props want to crank into left handers and turn flat into right handers, a few degrees makes all the difference.

Keep posting the piccies as you go along if you have chance.

Cheers
Oct 16, 2006, 01:12 PM
Victoria Super Mortem
UBILDIT's Avatar

Thanks


Thanks for the reminder, it's going together great. Ever since I scratch built a flat 3d plane that a friend of mine designed, I have been a firm believer in that angled thrust for 3D / Acrobatic type planes. I can actually hover with it, but I am going for a more parkflyer acrobatic style with this one although from your video..(nice flying by the way....you're better than you give yourself credit for..) it looks like the Ultimate will do just about everything fun I want it to do.
I will absolutely continue to take pictures as I go because this is a first for me as far as trying to get a smooth strong covering on a full fuse EPP plane. If it works and turns out light enough maybe the process can benifit eveyone.

Bo


Quick Reply
Message:

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The Ultimate Indoor 3D UniversalRC Scratchbuilt Indoor and Micro Models 765 Mar 07, 2006 04:53 PM
Question 3D parkflyer plans denysy Parkflyers 11 Dec 08, 2003 03:27 PM
Good sym airfoil for a 3d parkflyer? W Cole Parkflyers 2 Jun 13, 2003 01:02 AM
More 3D Parkflyer Videos Tim H. Parkflyers 8 Jun 11, 2003 01:46 AM
Plans\Pics - Bristol Beaufort JonM Scale Kit/Scratch Built 2 Dec 09, 2002 12:37 PM