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Jan 19, 2007, 08:40 AM
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Dr Kiwi's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aio_1
Phil,

Don't suppose you've got a Flyware MacroREX220/3-3200 and a MicroDAN F3P motor to test?
I'd love to know how these 4 motors compare!

Aidan
Don't have a Flyware (lend me one and I'll test it!), but the Microdan is going on the stand this afternoon for further test runs: I have some data for the 2003 F3P here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...rodan+2003+F3P
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Jan 19, 2007, 08:47 AM
Registered User
Dr Kiwi's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Just ShootMe
Has anyone else had trouble keeping the prop on the “Little” prop saver? I had to add some washers and Dremel off some of the GWS HD Prop.
I made it even more difficult for myself, because my test stand needs the props reversed as pushers. The adapters they supply work well, as designed, on the back of the hubs of the APC SF and E, but they are not made to fit the recess in the front of the hub. I did find I could sometimes reverse the adapter and it worked. But for GWS and other props I had to use a countersink bit to shape the hubs to suit - fun when I had to do this on about 3/4 of the 17 props I tried!

The Cyclon prop saver is a lot easier to cope with.

Cheers, Phil
Jan 19, 2007, 09:56 AM
Registered User
Aio_1's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Kiwi
Don't have a Flyware (lend me one and I'll test it!), but the Microdan is going on the stand this afternoon for further test runs: I have some data for the 2003 F3P here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...rodan+2003+F3P
I'd send you my MacroREX except then I couldn't fly with it. A round trip to the US is likely to take at least 3 weeks maybe a couple more.... perhaps when the indoor season is over.

On the other hand I've got all the usual props and an old Astro Whattmeter so I suppose I could do it myself. It's just I'm so darn lazy.

Aidan
Jan 19, 2007, 07:26 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aio_1
I doubt removing mass at the hub would have much effect compared to the mass of the blades. The closer to the centre of the prop the material is the less quickly it's moving at any given RPM. The affect that mass will have on the spool up/down of the motor is dependent on distance from the centre of rotation. Think of a long, heavy iron bar with a small diameter. It's very easy to rotate it about it's axis as an axle. However if you hold it in the middle of it's length and spin it around it's immensely harder to get it moving.

Aidan


You are correct, but I still maintain that there was improvement. Maybe it just fit tighter and there was less vibration. Maybe it was just on the edge of inefficiency and that little mass reduction tipped the scales. The hub of an 8X4 HD prop is almost as big as the motor. Every little bit helps. All I can say is try it.



Regards

Just
Jan 19, 2007, 11:37 PM
Registered User
Dr Kiwi's Avatar
Here is a link to my Mini Review of the Cyclon Nano and E-flite 250 [Microdan 2003 F3P to come later]: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=627449
Last edited by Dr Kiwi; Jan 19, 2007 at 11:44 PM.
Jan 23, 2007, 11:08 PM
Too little play time...
WarrrEagle!'s Avatar
What is the best way to secure the Park 250 to the CF tube mount?

A dab of epoxy?

Try to sink a set screw or something?
Jan 23, 2007, 11:49 PM
NY Slope Dog
Wind Junkie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarrrEagle!
What is the best way to secure the Park 250 to the CF tube mount?

A dab of epoxy?

Try to sink a set screw or something?
Yes, like this: different motor, same idea:
Jan 24, 2007, 01:25 AM
Too little play time...
WarrrEagle!'s Avatar
Cool. Kinda a PITA, eh?

Thanks.
Jan 24, 2007, 04:30 AM
Registered User
Aio_1's Avatar
The cables on the motor look very long. E-flite state:

"Shortening the motor wires is considered an improper modification of the motor and may cause the motor to fail."

If I buy one I'll probably want to shorten the cables. has anyone shortened them and if so were there any issues? Just wondering if the cables are lacquered under the insulation or something which might make soldering a problem. I can't think of any other reason why shortening the cables could cause difficulties.

Aidan
Jan 24, 2007, 06:56 AM
Sky Pilot
still4given's Avatar
I would think that it is because of the lacquer on the wire. Most folks wouldn't know about it and would not get a good solder joint causing the motor to fail. If you know how to remove the lacquer, I'm sure it will be fine to shorten them.

Blessings, Terry
Jan 24, 2007, 11:14 AM
Registered User
Dr Kiwi's Avatar
I believe the problem is not related to difficulty in soldering (just scrape the lacquer off) but the fact that the wires are an integral part of the windings and shortening them somehow affects the motor's performance. Several other manufacturers have similar warnings. Exactly why? - I am not smart enough to know.
Jan 24, 2007, 11:49 AM
Sky Pilot
still4given's Avatar
I suppose it could have some affect though it is hard to fathom how reducing the length of the wire by an inch could make that much difference. I don't know that for a fact, but it just seems logical. I do know for a fact that if you don't get a good contact with each of those little winding wires, that the motor won't run properly. Been there, done that. For that reason, I don't shorten any more. I haven't weighed the wire that I removed but it can't weigh much. I'd rather shorten or remove the wire from the ESC if it is that important to me.

Hey Doc,

I've been following your test between the Park 250 and the Cylcon Nano but I never got a feeling for what you thought of them. I have the Nano. How do you feel they compare? Do you think there is enough difference in performance to pick one over the other?

Thanks, Terry
Jan 25, 2007, 12:01 PM
Registered User
Dr Kiwi's Avatar
Terry,

There is not much in it.

The Cyclon: I liked its prop saver better, but the lack of a mount was a pain. Despite its calculated higher Kv, it runs as though it is lower Kv? If the figures are right the resistance Rm is higher than that of the E-flite. I don't know if the wobble of the bell is significant in the long term. It runs as much as a 7x3.5 fine on 2s. 8x4 GWS HD is probably okay since voltage from tiny packs is unlikely to be >7v.

The E-flite: the prop saver is a bit of a pain, but the supplied mount is good (if one loctites the tiny set screw!). It may be a little more rugged in a crash? It ran a bit hotter with each prop than the Cyclon ('cos it was drawing, and delivering, a bit more) but as long as it is not over-loaded with too big a prop it is fine. 8x4 GWS HD got it very hot at 7.4v, but like the Cyclon - at <7v its probably okay.

Cheers, Phil
Jan 26, 2007, 04:01 PM
C.H.E.A.P.
MICKEL's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aio_1
has anyone shortened them and if so were there any issues? Just wondering if the cables are lacquered under the insulation or something which might make soldering a problem. I can't think of any other reason why shortening the cables could cause difficulties.

Aidan
I cut mine in half and have noticed no difference. I also switched to a 7035 and it runs way cooler. (than the 8040) Great power for 15g.
Jan 26, 2007, 10:29 PM
Same Day Delivery
mike3976's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aio_1
The cables on the motor look very long. E-flite state:

"Shortening the motor wires is considered an improper modification of the motor and may cause the motor to fail."

If I buy one I'll probably want to shorten the cables. has anyone shortened them and if so were there any issues? Just wondering if the cables are lacquered under the insulation or something which might make soldering a problem. I can't think of any other reason why shortening the cables could cause difficulties.

Aidan
The leads are not solid wire, cut them as short as you want, I did, no problem!


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