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Aug 19, 2002, 03:19 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar

Brisfit and free plan build along


Hi all..

I've had scratch building this plane in my head for several months now. It's based on the Bristol F2a from the Plans Page. I've upsized the plans from the original FF rubber design, restructured the fuse for the added weight of R/C and converted the wing to built up from the original 1/32nd balsa sheeting. I will have the plans available soon if you Email me. Although through some 3-view research I've found that the stab/elevator outline is not correct and will need revisioning.
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
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Aug 19, 2002, 03:22 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar

Continues..


I'm providing the plans in a BMP image format so you can easily scale, tile and glue the plans using any old home inkjet printer and PC running Windows95/98. My initial thought about this WWI fighter/observation plane was "look at all the fiddley struts and rigging this thing will need...". But I found that the shape of the model is pleasing, it should be easily stick built and with my revisions, not too fragile, and it also has a very interesting history. And there are very few, if any, small E versions of this plane. It will be unique at any fly-in.

I should mention that this image is of the original 1934 M.A.N.
plan of the rubber powered FF model, and not my revised plan.
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
Aug 19, 2002, 03:26 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar

...


My first scratch built SE5 is still flying great on 6 cells of AAA nimhs on a homebuilt 3.5:1 geardrive and sp280 motor. It would seem that the motor and cell count would be somewhat low powered, but my SE5 does ROGs off our dirt and grass "strip" in my yard without much fuss. (The SE5 only weigh 9.6 ounces.) I expect that the Brisfit will come out at about 13 ounces, and may need a J250 converted 6.6:1 sp280 GWS drive for added oomph. I plan on running an 8X6 prop on this plane. It will have a 34" WS @ 240 square inches. And you'll only have to carve 3O ribs. (But it will have 8 interplane struts and the lower wing substruts, [you'll survive it.])

Here is a piccy of my my plan page #1 and the beginning of my fuselage and my , (ohmigosh) almost clean work bench..

Looeee
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
Aug 19, 2002, 06:05 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar

Carbon fiber rod fuse reinforcement..


Here is the two fuse sides built up and ready to start stitching together. I wanted to show how I'm using split 1/8" CF rod for structure stiffening on the nose and underside, (red arrows), as this fuse is mainly 3/32nd" sq. medium weight balsa. The hatch for the battery will be behind former "C" on the underside of the nose of this biplane, as the lower wing is directly below the fuse just aft of this hatch. Everything from the nose back, on the fuse bottom to 1" behind the lower wing will be C/F rod reinforced along the longerons, with the cross pieces for the landing gear struts having additional C/F rod for strength. The fuselage feels kinda floppy now but it will get plenty stiff as cross pieces are added.
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
Aug 19, 2002, 06:55 PM
Senior Member
Paul Penney's Avatar
Looking good! Make sure you post a detailed flight report when your finished and lots-a-pictures :P

Paul

www.canadianmodelsupply.com
-GWS Parts and Kits
Aug 20, 2002, 03:48 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar

More...


More pictures..

I've got the main fuse together and just need to add stringers and the hatch on the nose. It's looking more like a Brisfit fuse and not some weird OT cabin FF job. Well maybe it is a weird oldtimer scale model
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
Aug 20, 2002, 03:53 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar
This view is of the 1/16" ply plate and socket for the 10mmX10mm GWS 100 EPS motor beam, with the motor in place. 4 degrees down thrust and 3 degrees right for this plane, LAR style. You can see the addition of more C/F rod splinters for stiffening. The front end of this model is pretty solid now despite the spindliness of the structure. I have this old freeflighters love of sunlight through tissue and silkspan, and I want this plane to GLOW in the sunlight when overhead. Maybe not very scale but it is pretty IMHO.

Looee

(BTW, thanks Paul, [Buddly6])
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
Aug 20, 2002, 04:14 PM
Senior Member
Paul Penney's Avatar
That looks great! Are you sure the airframe will be able to support the motor? How about battery mounting detail?

Paul
Aug 20, 2002, 04:32 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar
Hi Paul

The size and weight of balsa in this is the same as my SE5, and it has considerably less C/F reinforcement. I've had the SE5 trip over its 9X7 prop more times than I can count, (short grass) and it just flops upside-down without much of any damage other than a broken rubber bungie on the main gear. (cross my fingers) But this is a fairly rangy and more open structure than my SE5. It really is pretty strong, I've test twisted the frame and its pretty resilient.

My battery mount will be a cradle of EPP foam with rubber bands across the top, I'm using the same setup in the SE5. It will sit on a sheet balsa platform in the fuse above the wing.
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Aug 20, 2002 at 04:35 PM.
Aug 20, 2002, 11:44 PM
Leave me alone!
Martin Hunter's Avatar
That looks great! Keep it up!

Martin
Aug 24, 2002, 11:19 AM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar

C/F rod splitting


More stuff folks..

This is just for you to reference.. whether you want to build this model or any other lightly built FF to RC conversion, as I feel the technique has merit.

This is how I split my 1/8" CF rod for laminating to balsa sticks in areas of higher than normal stress or were you might think you might need it. You can carry this out to any number of divisions that will remain useful, I used this idea for my CF spokes in the wheels of my SE5.

You start by donning some latex gloves and sharpening your large Xacto. I should also mention that this works best on shorter lengths of Cf rod, (under 24"). Just support the rod vertically on a firm surface, and select the end section you want with the blade across the end and tap the backside of the blade with a medium sized screwdriver or other firm plastic blow delivering device. Get the blade driven through about 1" or 2" and then just smoothly follow through with hand pressure. The fibers will guide the blade like straight grained cedar, and you should have two half pieces with the same end dimensions. You may or will have some stray fibers that should be disposed of carefully as they WILL pierce your skin worse than wood slivers. Trust me about this, this is why you wear gloves.

Looee
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
Aug 24, 2002, 01:03 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar

Building the wings..


The wings.. ( MUUAAHHH HAA HAA!.they wait until night, and they're always in pairs... )

I dislike rib and other former carving, but I do like the assembling the peices. Go figure..

Here I've done the main drudgery of carving the ribs and getting everything linked with straight pieces. I now have two pair of wings that will be joined with center sections and C/F rod chunks.
I have posted the finished assemblies with lines and arrows showing the hidden C/F rod chunks..

I have this thing about not making the wings not too reliant on the strutting and rigging for their strength. The C/F rod sections carry through the centers to about 3" into the wings for most of the wings strength. The struts and wires are not just for show but provide a little margin of flex for the final assembly. These planes will be landing in less than optimum conditions, they are not all that true to scale, and I don't mind a little extra flying durability at the expense of some scale realism.

The center peices consist of one rib each for each wing, some C/F rod sections , the gussets for the lower wing and its assorted fuse strutting, which includes two semi ribs for the struts out of some firm 3/16" balsa.
And the main 3/16" balsa spar that carries through the C/F rod into each wing plus the LE and TE of the centers which will also carry some C/F sections through to join both wings. Weewhew!! Hope that helps.
If not here's the piccies. I will incorporate these into the final plans as I can get to it. I'm basically Beta testing this build for you as we go too, so you'll see some mistakes and changes.

I hope you're flying today 'cause its raining here..
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
Aug 24, 2002, 02:31 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar

Shane Weir's 1/48" scale beauty


Thought I'd post a couple of these great pictures of Shane's plane from a link on the WWI Modelling website. I doubt If I could detail my plane even at 1/14th scale (aproximately) as he has this SCRATCHBUILT plastic static model.
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
Aug 24, 2002, 03:53 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Loooeee,
You weren't kidding when you said you've made progress! Looking good!! Can't wait to see her in flight!!
boomer
Aug 29, 2002, 06:57 PM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar

More progress..


Finally most of the framing is done and I'm doing a little covering with some inkjet printer colored silkspan and paper for the nose cowling.

I'm wondering about all that wing area and the small rudder area, seems like a canidate for some Dutch rolling problems when flown. I'll have to remake the rudder and verticle stabs if that's the case.

Looee
Last edited by Looooeeee!; Feb 26, 2012 at 09:20 AM.