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Old Nov 08, 2012, 08:23 PM
GryphonRCU is offline
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36mm MPI heat sinks:

38mm long and 59mm long(extra $2).

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-29b.html

You will be fine with just the shorter one.
I might consider the longer one and customize it as needed.

***if covering the area of the motor with the (3) pins, then you can mark the area inside of the heat sink and then grind those areas a little. Otherwise the heat sink will not sit flush.

---------

Brolley,

When I make a wooden elevon, air molecules will have to line up single file if they want to go through.
I am not the best guy to ask about sealing the hinge line.


The true speed kings can help you more.

If you have APC Sport 7X4 check to see what the draw is on 4S (static).
It might be good prop for maiden without being too fast. Since this ratio prop will unload higher % AMPs, it is OK to run it if static is on higher end than previously discussed.

Gryphon
Old Nov 09, 2012, 01:03 AM
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Brolley: search this forum for "wipers". This is how you seal the hinge line.
Old Nov 09, 2012, 02:06 AM
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Go to 3.49 of:

Making a Tape Hinge-Line (5 min 15 sec)



However I'm finding full tape Ritewing style hinges very good and quick to do:
Ritewing elevon attachment (10 min 26 sec)
Last edited by Peter M; Nov 09, 2012 at 02:15 AM.
Old Nov 09, 2012, 09:58 AM
FLAME747 is offline
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Static Model Collector LOL
I am in the process of building another stryker, trying the tape hinge method for the first time, so far it feels very secure.

FCA
Old Nov 09, 2012, 10:06 AM
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Love the colors, Flame! Care to share a picture of the whole plane?
Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:13 PM
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Sealing the hinge line...
Easiest method is to use 3M Blenderm tape, sold as parkflyer hinge tape in hobby shops. You fold the tape in half lengthwise and stuff it into the hinge gap, then wrap it and stick it to the surface of the wing trailing edge and elevon. Do it on both sides.

Blenderm tape fixes the issue of air "leaking" through the hinge gap, so it reduces drag there and makes the elevons more effective.
You will, however, still have the "valley" from the bevel of the elevon. So that's still a source of drag when using this method.

Wipers like Arcteryxxx mentioned will both seal the gap and make a flat surface across the hinge. They can be made from packing tape. Don't use Extreme tape, as it's too stiff and can flutter rather than staying pasted to the elevon surface like it should.
If you do wipers on a centered hinge, with a V-shaped bevel cut on the elevon, you'll need a wiper on the top and bottom surface, or it won't seal anything.

My personal favorite hinge is a Storage Tape hinge, Ritewing style. Single bevel on the elevon and an automatically sealed gap. You can also install a tape wiper on the bottom.
Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:35 PM
FLAME747 is offline
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Static Model Collector LOL
Hey Arcteryxxx still building it, I'll post more pics later

FCA
Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:56 PM
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Speed comparison


For those of you who fly Ritewings and Strykers... wondering which is more slipperiest .
What I'm getting at.... With exactly the same setup which one would be faster?

I'm thinking about getting a Voltron data logger. Has anybody used one? Do you like it?

Murdo, I sent you a pm about a motor.

Been trying to get a video of my Ritewing D40 dopplered. It's under electric airplane videos if interested. A friend got a Bushnell radar gun but we're having trouble getting it to work right.
Last edited by brolley; Nov 11, 2012 at 09:01 PM.
Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:05 PM
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Hello Doppler experts,

Here is brolley's video.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1766944

It is not on max volts or max AMPs....but he can use the Doppler results.


Thanks,

Gryphon
Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:28 PM
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Hey Brolley,
I get 115, 110, 96, 109, 118mph on your upwind passes.
Add whatever your estimated headwind component was to get your true airspeed.

You can see the big difference a nice long runup makes, as the last pass was the fastest on a spent battery. But you were on the gas for a good 5 seconds before the camera.
Either that or your batteries were in thermal runaway, producing more volts!!

Seriously though, how are your batteries doing??
I read 31,600 RPM on your motor during the flight, which would indicate about 19.3V for that RPM on your 1915KV motor.
Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:37 PM
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Also just a note on Doppler...
I had my RC Speedo app listening to the computer speakers as I was running the Hyperdyne desktop doppler program, and the RCSpeedo is within a couple mph on all passes. With no work!!
Also had the same experience at the field with a guy using RCSpeedo on my plane. When I went home the results I got on the desktop program were nearly the same as he was calling out in the video.
RCSpeedo is a great tool for everyday speed checks!
Just make sure that if you get 4 passes between 115-125mph, and one pass at 218mph, you know which one to throw out
Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Thanks Murdo.


G.
Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
Thanks Murdo.


G.
Ditto... Thanks Murdo.
That's disappointing! I thought the Nano-Techs were losing their punch(if they ever had any). About 6 flights on them. I'm going back to TP!
Is it necessary to break-in the batts if you want them to last?
Old Nov 11, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brolley View Post
Ditto... Thanks Murdo.
That's disappointing! I thought the Nano-Techs were losing their punch(if they ever had any). About 6 flights on them. I'm going back to TP!
Is it necessary to break-in the batts if you want them to last?
Absolutely break them in!!
Higher C-rating batteries are more touchy to being treated nicely than lower grade packs.
I've gotten good experience from the Nano-tech 65C packs when broken in and keeping them at storage voltage any time they're not flying. I don't even charge the night before flying.

Also, I'm just doing a little dirty math for fun on your RPM and voltage. You may have something different with in-flight data log on your voltage.
Last edited by murdnunoc; Nov 11, 2012 at 11:26 PM.


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