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Sep 20, 2006, 02:33 AM
My first Build
radralph's Avatar
It'll prob glue back together man. Mine did. Mt buddy's did. Get some foam safe CA and activator and tape and fly it some more. After you've completed your crash training then do the rebuild if you need to.
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Sep 20, 2006, 08:11 AM
Designer of Flying Things
-=SLaPPiE=-'s Avatar
Skip, You want to use "Shoe Goo" to fix that boo boo.

It will flex for life.
Sep 22, 2006, 06:18 PM
Registered User
I just purchased the partial kit so I can be on Ch 23 with my JR 8103

Anyone have any suggestions about the install.

I did manage to get the rear cover off but the double faced tape is ruint pretty good.
Sep 22, 2006, 06:35 PM
I Cut Air Into Submission
xrbeast's Avatar
Who's Stryker is the heaviest ??

my is weighing 37 ounces .... it equipped with a hacker B40 8l and a cut down 4.75 x 4.75 prop .. 40 amp max ...410 watt setup.. of course, a 5400mah 3cell lipo weighing 16ounces...

haven't had a chance to fly this pig yet...hope it will fly..
Sep 22, 2006, 07:36 PM
Registered User
I need to get a scale and see how heavy mine is. my stryker has a medusa 28-40-3400 with a 4.75x4.75 apc and a 3 cell 3200mah and 60amp speed control. flies nice and smooth. It goes fast enough for me. not as heavy as yours xrbeast, but still a brick. hand launchs good, with a hard throw. I would really like to radar it some day.
Sep 23, 2006, 12:05 AM
Extreme Hoverer
Originally Posted by radralph
I'm not sure I agree because beyond the extra size of the c mount the LG mount is also glued and screwed. When i rebuild my stryker i will be adding CF rods there to help out. i'm using a 2000 kv motor on the b mount now and the deflection from the torque is incredibly bad. The new C mount is on the way as we speak though!!!

Have fun

Like I said
just glad I wasn't the first.

I did strip a servo at a scenic area just west of Grand JCT on I70 a little over a week ago,couldn't have been 10 miles inside Utah.
Sep 23, 2006, 12:55 AM
Flying Free
erashby's Avatar
Originally Posted by skip63
Thats wild because on my 10th flight I managed to nose it in at 1/2 speed and removed the motor/attachment assembly. It actually came unplugged from the ESC.
Thats what I get for trying an upsidedown fly by at a too steep of a angle of attack.
I have anothe plug in the garage. But that hurts.
Althought the C version motor mount looks more robust, I think that they missed the boat on the redesign. When one crashes it is most often "nose in". This puts the most stress on the forward part of the motor mount. At the most forward part of the motor mount the foam is still relatively thin. The fact that the mount is wider just requires a few more wingspan-wise inches of the foam to be folded and crack or split. In the pictures below of my motor mount reinforcement, I have place two parallel 1" strips of CF on the top and the bottom of the foam and glued them in place with CA. That transfers any forces from any "nose in" crash to the thicker foam more forewared and along side the fuselage.

Just my thinking on the motor mount crash forces and damage minimization.
Sep 23, 2006, 02:29 AM
My first Build
radralph's Avatar
That's why I'll add the CF rods parallel to the thrust line. One on each side
Sep 23, 2006, 11:56 AM
Yep I got another one.
mohillbilly's Avatar
Originally Posted by tomi
I meant glueing the nose back together. It snapped in half. Right now, it's held on the supplied double sided tape. Pretty amazing how well the double sided tape holds. The foam gave out, but the tape didn't..
Sep 23, 2006, 12:37 PM
Live, Die, FLY
After the recent hit and blows to the leading edge of the wing, I decided I had enough. I had been pondering this idea for quite some time. When cleaning my lizard pen a thin sheat of aluminum fell out of the light, all it was, was a refletor, it was supprizingly light. It was very sturdy. After work this eveing I am going to go to work and cut it in half, and plate the leading edge. I may have to adjust the cg but thats no problem, Operation armored stryker has comenced...

P.S. I hope this works

Sep 24, 2006, 01:58 AM
Registered User
Here is the problem. (FACTORY PAINT)If you buy the new 27C or 27 it has a dusting of paint. Like it or not it's not the best idea..... Why? because if you have a new unpainted body you can apply packing tape in ceatian areas that will protect those areas in a crash. The paint on from the factory inhibits any adhesion of tape applied. The unpainted plug is bare and tape sticks great.
I have 2 brushed 27's and were rebuilt with the unpainted plug with packing tape applied to the motor housing area and along leading edges. It actually helped with a windy day and I drove one into the dirt with nothing broken. Tape and then paint. The Shoo Goo works! Thanks SLAPPIE!
Sep 24, 2006, 08:45 PM
Live, Die, FLY
Can the DX6 reciver take the voltage from the 11.1v battery? Also are the people useing the DX6 useing the servos that came with the plane, or switching them out.

Last edited by That can fly?!?; Sep 24, 2006 at 10:47 PM. Reason: Just cause
Sep 24, 2006, 11:09 PM
My first Build
radralph's Avatar

TrueRC 2000mAh 11.1V 3S1P pack 5C Continuous TX pack

About half way down the page. Mines ordered! Should be in in less than 2 weeks.
Sep 24, 2006, 11:44 PM
Live, Die, FLY
Originally Posted by radralph

TrueRC 2000mAh 11.1V 3S1P pack 5C Continuous TX pack

About half way down the page. Mines ordered! Should be in in less than 2 weeks.
Wouldent this be better??? "TrueRC 2100mAh 11.1V 3S1P pack 10C Continuous"???
Sep 25, 2006, 12:03 AM
My first Build
radralph's Avatar
Could be except i don't think it will fit in the DX6 batt box. I think 34mm is too wide. Plus the 5C (Tx) batt has the proper connectors and is a perfect fit for the radios it is designed to be used in.

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