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Jul 19, 2006, 08:11 PM
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Question

Blade 4in-1 CCPM protection FUSE mod wire gauge


I have my fuses and solder ready to do this MOD but I want to be able to move the FUSE a little away from the motor. If I am correct the FUSE is in between the orangish wire and the motor it self ?

If so I want to be able to run a short wire from the motor's terminal to one end of fuse and then orange wire to other end of fuse. This is so that if I blow one I can pop it off a lot quicker than if it were directly attached to the termminal. There also seems to be some sort of yellow resistor attached to that motor terminal and I dont want to mess with it.

OK... here is the question. I am not good with wire gauges. I have some wire from the PSU of a PC/computer. Would that be an ok gauge to use. Or how about the solid core copper wire found in ethernet cables ?
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Jul 19, 2006, 08:19 PM
"Heli-Pimp"
kdill2160's Avatar
Use the Power supply wire
Jul 19, 2006, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdill2160
Use the Power supply wire

ok . thank you.
Jul 20, 2006, 12:31 AM
Just call me crash.
Quote:
Originally Posted by X3n0
... I want to be able to run a short wire from the motor's terminal to one end of fuse and then orange wire to other end of fuse. This is so that if I blow one I can pop it off a lot quicker than if it were directly attached to the termminal. There also seems to be some sort of yellow resistor attached to that motor terminal and I dont want to mess with it....
In all truth you are better off bending the fuse at 90 degrees and soldering it to the terminal. This is because when you do this it holds it solid and it won't be able to bounce around. It's not any harder to solder/desolder, trust me on that one, done it many times.

Put a goodly blob of solder on the underside of the fuse tab, rest it on the terminal, and heat the tab from above, when you feel it "drop," you're done with that side.

I do put a little piece of double-sided servo tape between the fuse and motor, this holds it in place while you solder and keeps it from possibly bending down and shorting against the can.

That is a capacitor, not a resistor - as long as you don't crush it you can't hurt it really.

Last bit, turn the motor so the fuse is at the back -right of the heli, if it's in front it will hit the canopy.
Jul 20, 2006, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocknbil
In all truth you are better off bending the fuse at 90 degrees and soldering it to the terminal. This is because when you do this it holds it solid and it won't be able to bounce around. It's not any harder to solder/desolder, trust me on that one, done it many times.

Put a goodly blob of solder on the underside of the fuse tab, rest it on the terminal, and heat the tab from above, when you feel it "drop," you're done with that side.

I do put a little piece of double-sided servo tape between the fuse and motor, this holds it in place while you solder and keeps it from possibly bending down and shorting against the can.

That is a capacitor, not a resistor - as long as you don't crush it you can't hurt it really.

Last bit, turn the motor so the fuse is at the back -right of the heli, if it's in front it will hit the canopy.
I would still have to heat the terminal first to dis-engage the orange wire right ? which would then be resoldered to the free terminal on the fuse.....do I have that right ?
Jul 20, 2006, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X3n0
I would still have to heat the terminal first to dis-engage the orange wire right ? which would then be resoldered to the free terminal on the fuse.....do I have that right ?
Yep. But don't sweat it, it really is easy. I've replaced mine once already and it takes a LOT longer for the iron to heat up than it does to actually replace the fuse. Having it attached directly to the terminals keeps the "rat's nest" of wires to a minimum too. This picture shows my first fuse, the one that's installed now is a bit neater job.

-Chris
Jul 20, 2006, 12:13 PM
Just call me crash.
Well, if you bend the fuse tab at 90 degrees, you actually heat the fuse tab because that's all you can access, so the solder melts long before the motor tab gets hot. A wire off is fine though, it just seems to be more work and once you do it the fuse can flop around.
Jul 20, 2006, 12:48 PM
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JustPlaneChris's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocknbil
A wire off is fine though, it just seems to be more work and once you do it the fuse can flop around.
Yep, and possibly short against something, unless you put heatshrink over the legs of the fuse.

-Chris
Jul 20, 2006, 01:02 PM
gravy

fuses


JUST FRIED MY FIRST FUSE ! yea , the setup works..........went to radio shack and got the smallest female spade connectors available ( still too big ) and modified them by cutting off one side with the dremmel ... I know I'll be changing fuses every flite session so this should make things easier.........also , by the time I get the solder to stick to the fuse ( slag metal ) ( on the mini fuses ) they sort of melt....didn't check to see if it affected the performance.........be sure to use shrink wrap and double sided tape to anchor it..........SCOTT RULES...........gravy
Jul 20, 2006, 09:49 PM
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OMG ! barely 45 mins after installing the fuse I got to see it work. Picked up the heli after a CFIT and tripped the idle-up switch by mistake. One nice red welt on my arm later I noticed the gap in the fuse where the wire had melted and my motor would not crank. Just fixed it in 2 mins,
Scott you the man.
Now how hard could it have been for Horizon to implement this in their design. Sheesh. !


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