Hobby Lobby's Honey Bee King CCPM Beginner-Safe Micro Heli Review!

George Voss, an experienced acro pilot, takes a humbling and detailed look at exploring the unique world of model helicopters. Our Editor calls this a "must read for all airplane pilots thinking of getting into helicopters of any size."



Rotor Span:23.5"
Rotor Area:433.73 sq. in.
Weight:14.25 oz. w/recommended battery
Disk Loading:4.73 oz/sq. ft.
Transmitter:E-Sky 6 channel w/CCPM programming
Battery:E-Sky 3 Cell 1000 mAh 11.1V Li-Poly (charger included)
Motor:Speed 400
ESC:20A E-Sky
Available From:Hobby Lobby

Beginner Basics

There are a few things a person should know about RC helicopters before getting started. I used to kid people, saying: ďMy mama always told me never fly anything that had wings that moved.Ē Another tongue-in-cheek, yet true statement is: ďHelicopters arenít really aircraft; they are just a series of nuts, bolts and rivets vibrating in unison in one location.Ē Another? Helicopters donít fly; they beat the air into submission.

There are good reasons for these bits of wisdom. No matter how macho or good you think you are, or how long youíve been flying pattern, racing pylon or any other RC fixed wing flight mode, you canít fly a helicopter without assistance! Let me repeat that: You canít fly helicopters without some sort of assistance! There are just too many rotating parts, too many new features, words and concepts to learn, and other items to deal with. Most of us have no idea where many of the parts go on the helicopter or what they do. Itís not the same as an airplane, which has one key rotating part, the engine. Trust me, youíll need HELP...and yes I meant to yell HELP!

Now, donít think Hobby Lobby is stretching the truth when they say a beginner can fly the Honey Bee King (HBK), they can. It will just take some help from an experienced heli pilot to get going.

Some entry-level helicopters on the market canít be upgraded for higher performance. They are made stable so a beginner can learn as quickly as possible. They can hover, pirouette, fly around in circles or squares, but thatís about it. The HBK on the other hand, with its CCPM head, can teach a newcomer about basic flight, but also perform many of the 3D maneuvers that nearly every new heli pilot wants to graduate into and learn.

If you are considering investing time in RC helicopters, here are my suggestions: (Note that they come from a beginnerís point of view.)

It Takes Two Hands (or thumbs)

First, understand that controlling helicopters and airplanes require different skills and inputs. Most airplane pilots use their left hand for throttle only and even then they use it like an on/off switch. Many can barely stay on the runway during take off because they donít know how to use the rudder.

You MUST fly a helicopter with both hands, all the time. This is why learning to fly an RC helicopter usually takes longer and is more difficult to learn than flying a fixed wing plane. You immediately have to learn to fly with both hands. Letís face it; most planes can be flown with just the right stick, except during takeoff and landings. After learning how to fly a heli, you will feel comfortable using the left stick while flying airplanes. I consider this a real plus! Learning to fly a helicopter will make you a better airplane pilot.

Getting acquainted with helicopters

Since I have no experience with heliís and I know there are many fixed-wing pilots in the same boat, Iím going to break my experiences down and present it from a fixed wing pilotís point of view. Iíll do my best to name each major item and its function so that a fixed wing pilot will understand what they do. This means I may offend some heli pilots with possibly simple explanations, but we fixed-wing pilots need this type of education. And to think, I asked for this humiliation!

I had many questions, so I turned to the Internet to find out what I could. Hobby Lobby's phone support is a great place to start if you are searching during business hours. After hours, checking the Internet I found some very good info in a variety of sites, a lot of which was here on RCGroups! Iíll only repeat some of the basic control movements in some articles, but check out the web for more in depth information.

Note: My description will be for Mode 2 fliers, which means we have the throttle and rudder on the left stick.

Airplane vs. Helicopters: The similarities and differences

Letís discuss the main difference between how a helicopter flies compared to how an airplane flies. Airplane wings create lift by flying through the air with thrust provided by a motor or by trading altitude for airspeed in the case of a sailplane. The main rotor blades on helicopters create lift the same way thrust is provided on an airplane: by a motor. The difference of course is that airplane wings donít rotate to create lift. An aircrafts' lift is created by propelling the plane through the air, allowing the wing to create lift. A helicopters ďwingĒ rotate to create its lift.

Helicopters arenít like anything else flying! When flying an airplane, the last thing you are taught is landing. Typically, the instructor will get the plane up to a reasonable altitude and let you fly either with the main transmitter or youíll be using a buddy chord on a separate transmitter. Youíll do this a number of times until you can fairly safely control the airplane. What this means is youíll have a fair amount of time flying the airplane before trying your first landing. On the other hand, with helicopters, the first thing you learn is hovering, which is basically the helicopters take-off and landing mode. On a simulator, your first task is to learn how each function on the transmitter changes things on the heli. After that, youíll try to learn to hover one foot off of the ground. Youíll do less crashing from 12Ē as long as you have training gear on the heli. Crashing comes when we try moving the heli around in forward flight and try to return to hover for the first time, or take off the training gear.

Basically, throttle and tail rotor react basically the same as they do on an airplane. Left and right rudder move the nose left and right. As the throttle stick moves up and down, it also changes the pitch on the main rotor blades. This function is called ďcollective.Ē Instead of only increasing prop (rotor blade) speeds to increase lift or airspeed, like we do on an airplane, we change the pitch on the rotor blades of a heli and slightly increase the motor's speed. However, increasing rotor head speed isnít as important as increasing pitch.

The aileron stick controls main rotor tilt right and left. This is called ďcyclic.Ē Moving the aileron stick causes the rotor to tilt from side to side. Fore and aft movement of the right stick tilts the rotor forward and aft, giving us a form of elevator. This is another part of cyclic. However, the combination of throttle/cyclic makes the helicopter increase altitude, not the elevator. Like I mentioned, the elevator stick only tilts the head fore and aft.

Before we answer the big question; ďWhat is CCPM?,Ē letís look at how the main rotor blades on a helicopter are actuated to create lift and how each movement of the transmitter sticks effect the rotor head.

CCPM is cyclic and collective pitch mixing. CCPM is a system of controlling the swash plate. CCPM utilizes three servos to control the swash plate instead of one for each function. In a non-CCPM helicopter, there is one servo for elevator, function, one for aileron function and one for cyclic function. Each servo operates independently of the other servo. With a CCPM system, two or more servos work together to input the same control.

In a non-CCPM system, the aileron servo will be 90 degrees from the centerline of the helicopter, the elevator servo will be in line with the centerline of the helicopter. In a CCPM system, the servos are either 120 degrees apart or 140 degrees apart

For fixed-wing pilots, think of it a flap/aileron mixing on an airplane. When you apply aileron, the flaps will move with the aileron. Collective pitch provides much easier height control than fixed pitch and although more complex mechanically, makes flying easier and more stable.

http://www.quickheli.com/CCPMSetup.htm CCPM setup http://www.swashplate.co.uk/ehbg-v16/ch08.html definition of CCPM

I just couldnít resist the offer to review the Honey Bee King from Hobby Lobby. It looks cute and comes with virtually everything needed for flight. All the pilot has to do is install the radio, landing gear and the main rotor blades and the King is ready to fly.

With all of the many varieties of Speed 400 size helicopters, letís take Hobby Lobby up on their offer of ďThe first collective pitch helicopter that a beginner can fly!Ē Iíve been flying sailplanes and power planes for the last 37 years. Iíve flown everything from the slowest sailplane to pattern ships, and a bunch of other planes in between. Letís say Iím a safe, competent pilot on fixed wing aircraft. But helicoptersÖthey are another kettle of fish. Can I really learn to fly with the King?

Kit Contents

This review will cover the RTF version of the Honey Bee King from Hobby Lobby. The RTF version includes a 6-channel radio with a transmitter and receiver, a 20A speed control, 4 servos, a gyro and a battery charger.

The beginner needs to order:

  • training gear
  • transmitter batteries
  • Extra flight battery
  • highly recommend training gear
  • highly recommend simulator

If you choose to purchase rechargables for the transmitter, note that the charge jack is the JR format, the opposite of Hitec/Futab/Airtronics/Multiplex.


The King comes 95% assembled. All of the difficult assembly is done at the factory. All the modeler has to do is install the landing gear, the radio and the main rotor blades.

Radio Installation

Before you begin assembly, charge the 3-cell LiPo battery with the provided charger.

You will receive 3 booklets with the King and radio. The HBK instructions are written for someone who knows a swash plate from a tail rotor (Iíll be discussing parts later in the article.). Luckily the kit is fully assembled so those of us who are new can spend time flying instead of assembling. The exploded diagrams and part lists are awesome, but there arenít written instructions, which can be a hindrance for a beginner.

I had to look at the side of the box to figure out where and how the servos are installed; that information simply wasnít described clearly enough in the instructions for me to understand. Three of the four servos on the King mount on the main frame of the heli and the tail rotor servo mounts on the boom. There are several drawings that go something like this: ďthe aileron servo hooks up to #1 on the RX, the elevator hooks up to #2 on the RX" and so on, but nowhere in the text does it tell you which servo is considered the aileron, elevator etc servo. Thankfully, Hobby Lobby (HL) has excellent support. A phone call to Dave at HL and I had the servos plugged into the correct outlets on the RX.

Landing Skids

The landing gear is made up of some molded plastic and carbon rods. The landing gear is mounted to the frame with clevis-like brackets screwed into the frame. You will need to glue the carbon rods to the brackets after the brackets are screwed into place. I used green label Zap. The servos are mounted next. As mentioned above, one of the photos on the side of the box shows how the servos are mounted.

I strongly recommend that a brand new heli pilot purchase training gear! I went to the local Hobby Shop (LHS) and purchased mine. The E-flite training gear works OK but they could be a bit stronger since the HBK is a bit heavier than the Blade series the training gear was designed for. Itís better to get the correct E-Sky part when you buy the King from Hobby Lobby. The last thing a new pilot needs is a set of hardwood rotor blades trying to cut you off at the knees or worse, at eye level! Training gear will allow you to lift off just enough to make the helicopter fly, but the training gear will still be on the ground.

The next recommendation should be considered mandatory! Use a simulator to practice flying a helicopter. Iíll repeat that; use a simulator to practice flying a helicopter! There are plenty of good oneís to choose from. Hobby Lobby sells them also and their price is reasonable.

Radio Setup

The transmitter has the correct electrical mixes needed to fly a CCPM helicopter; but this programming is fixed, meaning you canít turn it off or alter the programming. In other words, itís a fairly simple looking radio with the programming already in the transmitter. Servo reversing switches, an Idle up switch and pitch trim are available to the modeler. Of course, if you have a mixing radio and your own micro servos, RX, speed control and gyro, you can use them with the King. If you use rechargeable batteries, note that the charge jack utilized the JR charge jack format of negative inside pin and the outer is positive.

With the King fully assembled, itís time to set up the servos.

From the tail looking forward, the servos are as follows:

  • Left (aileron) servo goes in the #1 slot on the RX,
  • the right servo (pitch) goes in #6,
  • the elevator,(elevator) is the forward servo and hooks into #2,
  • #3 is the throttle,
  • #4 (tail rotor) is the rudder, which has the gyro linked between the rudder servo and the RX.

With the right and left stick centered, the servo arms should be as close to 90 degrees as possible.

Trimming and More

With everything hooked up, we now start trimming the King. The key to a successful helicopter assembly and flying is this: Itís all about trimming! Iím 100% sure that flying a helicopter is 99% setup and trimming. Unlike a fixed-wing plane, where we simply check and make sure the CG is correct and the controls work in the proper direction, a helicopter requires setup and trimming on multiple levels. We need to balance the rotor blades (both main and tail rotors), balance the entire helicopter fore and aft, adjust swash plate servos for proper direction and proper mixing, check main rotor pitch, and a number of other adjustments. Oh, and by the way, we set up the swash plate and tail rotor servos with the motor disconnected, but the radio turned on and the throttle/cyclic stick on the transmitter in the center position! This is totally different than the relatively simple setup an airplane has.

The tail rotor servo mounts on two plastic clamps that are mounted on the boom. The obvious question is: ďHow do I know where to position the tail rotor servo on the boom?Ē Next, I knew that the rotor blades arenít screwed down so tight that they donít move, but how tight should they be? The same question arose for the tail rotor blades. I had all of my questions written down before I talked to Dave at HL and he happily answered my questions. Iíll pass them on to you now:

The tail rotor servo is mounted to the mounting clips, but they are only tightened enough to hold the servo in place on the boom. With a bit of force supplied, you can slide the servo forward and aft on the boom. When you first spool up the King, note which way the nose of the heli rotates. You physically move the tail rotor servo forward or aft depending on which way the nose moves when mid-throttle is reached. Needless to say you shut the motor down and wait for the main rotor blades to stop spinning before making any adjustments.

Safety Note

Itís not as much of an issue on an airplane, but you should always turn on the transmitter first, and then the heli. When you are done flying, turn the heli off first and then the transmitter. If not, there is a chance that the motor may start rotating. I almost forgot to mention, when you turn the helicopter on, the heli must be upright. If itís not upright, the gyro wonít engage and you wonít have control of the tail. Youíll also know because the light on top of the gyro will flash telling you the gyro isnít responding. If you try to fly the heli at this point, you will have no control of the tail and will likely crash.

Out of balance rotating parts can cause a tremendous amount of damage. Therefore we need to balance the rotating parts and just as importantly, make sure the blades are tracking properly.

Itís best to have a helper with you when adjusting the main rotor blades. Before installing the main rotor blades, make sure they are exactly the same length. If necessary, sand the length of the long blade and reshape the tip. You will have to cut into the plastic covering on the blade, but thatís OK.

Now that we know they are the same length, we need to balance them. There are some expensive balance machines out there, but you can balance the blades using only a razor blade and a nut and bolt. If one blade always drops, itís heavier than the other blade. Put a piece of electrical tape on the light blade to increase its weight. Put the tape at the outer end of the blade. The same can be done for the tail rotor blades. See photo

If you didnít have to add any tape to the light blade, take a magic marker and apply some to the top of only one of the blades. Make the mark about one inch wide and put it at the tip. Now, hold the helicopter firmly down on a board or have a helper hold the heli. Quickly bring the throttle to mid position and see which blade is higher than the other. The dark mark on the end of one of the blades will make it easy to see which blade is running above the other one. To make adjustment, youíll adjust the length of the blade/pitch rods. Rotate one of the clevises at least one full turn and try running it up again. If the problem gets better, you moved the clevis the correct way. You can make all of the adjustments to one rod, but itís best to adjust both links for each blade. Naturally one link will become longer and the other shorter.

With the heli sitting on the ground, quickly bring the throttle stick to mid point. The nose of the heli should stay in one place, not rotate around the vertical. If the fuselage is rotating, shut down the heli and slide the tail rotor servo fore or aft and run it up again. If the move made it better then you know you moved it in the correct direction. If not, well, slide it the other way. Now the heli is in ďBASICĒ trim


I know this is the section you read first, but there is a ton of good information in the above paragraphs! Please take the time to read them before making a decision whether to purchase any helicopter, and particularly this one!

Can a beginner really fly a CCPM helicopter? Letís see!

Driving around, or not.

Again, donít even consider learning to fly the King or any other micro heli for that matter, without using training gear. That is unless you have deep pocket to buy rotor blades. If you look at the area the main gear covers vs. the area the training gear covers, youíll understand why I make this recommendation.

The training gear consists of ping-pong balls, carbon rods and mounting brackets. The ping-pong balls are held on the carbon rods with small pieces of fuel tubing. The tubing is inboard and outboard of the balls to keep the balls at the end of the rods. Iíve managed to lose the outer tubing on two different legs and even have had the ping-pong balls swallow the tubing. To solve that problem, I used some thread wrapped around the rods outboard and inboard of the fuel tubing. This keeps the balls from coming off. I wrapped the thread around the rods just outside the outer tubing and just inboard of the inboard tubing on all four legs. Now the balls stay where they are supposed to.

The throttle/cyclic (increased blade pitch) are functions of the throttle stick. On a helicopter, flight doesnít really happen until you get the throttle stick above mid-position. This has the motor running at a medium-high speed with the main blade pitch at zero. When we move the throttle above the center position, flying happens. What I discovered, unfortunately the hard way, is you need to get the throttle stick from minimum to mid-throttle quite rapidly. If you come up too, slowly, the tail wants to revolve around the rotor head, even if itís trimmed properly for normal flight. But the more importantly, the reason is you need to get everything up to operation speed so the heli doesnít try to destroy itself during spin-up. All rotating devices have vibration at certain speed. This can easily be verified with your Dremelģ tool. At some speeds itís fine and at others itís trying to shake itself out of your hand. A heli is the same way. So remember: throttle to mid position quickly.

The first flight was in my back yard on the grass during a calm day. This is the only flight I performed on the grass. The training gear didnít roll or slide on the grass. The second and subsequent flights were used driving the King around the cement inside my garage. The next few days were entirely too windy to fly outside, so I attempted to fly the King in my 2-car garage. Unless you feel very comfortable with throttle control, I recommend flying the King outside. A 2-car garage is a small place to learn to fly a heli. However, I just couldnít wait to fly the King.

With a fully charged flight battery at the ready, we are now going to learn how to fly. Using the training gear allows the helicopter to roll/slide around on the ground. The object is to keep the helicopter in one place, which as it turns out, is a little more difficult than keeping your average .40 size trainer flying straight and level. Oddly, we are trying to keep the King on the floor while trying to keep it in one location. You will have to use both sticks to position the heli where you want, not where it wants to go. The heli will move fore, aft, right and left, sometimes all at once. The object is to keep the heli in one place. Unless you are a protťgť, itíll take a number of battery packs before you can stay in a 10x10í square.

From the Ĺ throttle point, the King will start to get light on its feet as it were. While itís in this mode, the pilot gets used to using both sticks and mainly the left stick to control the nose of the heli. All of the initial flights were made with the King in front of me with the nose facing away from me at a 45í angle.

Itís at this point you can see how good your initial set up is. I found the tail wanting to push the nose around to the left, and for the heli wanting to slide backwards to the left. Since the aileron/elevator changes needed were small, I used the trim tabs. I physically moved the tail rotor servo to get the tail to hold basically straight at mid-throttle. It took me 4 battery pack charges before I could actually get all 4 gear off of the ground for any length of time.

Consistency is the key.

Like anything else in life, consistency is the key to learning a new task. The more times you do something, the better youíll become. Iíve tried to fly at least one flight a day since I received the heli and prefer three a day. Since itís windy in Oklahoma all year long, I get to practice flying in my garage. This is both good and bad. Since there are many obstacles near by, I spend a lot of time just going up and down. However, the ďupĒ times are now starting to increase. Iím confident that if I were outside, I could stay in the air 15-20 seconds at a time instead of the 3-10 seconds I can in my garage. The reasons I canít keep the King up for a longer time in the garage are the hazards. The heli drifts 5-10í around and there are too many obstacles I can hit. Outside, there arenít those obstacles so I would be able to stay up longer.

The good part is I donít have to leave the house to practice. I can fly out a battery pack, let it charge while I relax paging through Ezone and LiftZone, and fly again when the battery is charged.

I can hear you saying to yourself: ď20 seconds, thatís not very long.Ē It is and it isnít. When we learned how to fly fixed wing aircraft, we used a stable platform. When your average .40 size trainer aircraft is trimmed properly, it will basically fly itself for periods of time. Helicopters on the other hand, must be flown all the time. Also, the last thing we learn when flying fixed wing aircraft is landing. With helicopters, the first thing we learn is how to hover, which is virtually identical as landing. With a heli, we are learning the hard part first. Once we learn to hover, forward flight seems easy.

Speeding Up The Process

Iíve had no outside assistance other than the phone call to HL and confirming how the main rotor blades are adjusted for tracking with my LHS owner. This is not the way to go. Even after youíve done your best to trim the heli, itís a good idea to have an experienced helicopter pilot take a couple flights with it. No doubt, heíll want to make some changes to the heliís setup.

There are a couple of ways to speed up the learning process. As stated above, the more often you fly, the better youíll get. Using one of the many RC Simulator to practice flying helicopter will save time and money. Both of my LHS owners recommend simulators for newcomers to heli flight. In the long run, this will save the newcomer money. You can crash a simulator all day long and the cost of a new heli is always zero. Hobby Lobby sells the most popular simulators, the RealFlight G3 and the Ikarus AeroFly Pro Deluxe.

Another way is to use a buddy box. The heli guys are a tight knit group since they are typically small in numbers. Having someone to help you hands-on is the best way to achieve a well-trimmed helicopter.

Yet another way is to purchase one of the twin rotor blade training micro heliís or a non-CCPM model. The regular Honey Bee comes to mind. I don't recommend this direction, though. The issues I have with these heliís are their limitations. Being fairly simple helicopters, about all you can do is hover, pirouette, and fly forward and backward. The CCPM Honey Bee King can and will do all that and much, much more!

Iíve had no outside assistance other than the phone call to HL and confirming how the main rotor blades are adjusted for tracking with my LHS owner.

Once we learn to hover tail in, weíll learn nose in hovering.

More Than Hovering

More experienced helicopter flyers have flown the HBK and can really wring them out. The HBK is one of the lightest Speed 400 3D helicopters around. The lightweight means it can change directions quicker than a heavier helicopter. This translates into better 3D flying. To do the more serious 3D maneuvers, an upgraded motor and matching speed control will be needed. Hobby Lobby has them in stock so you don't have to go hunting around. Just tell them you want to 3D the HBK and they'll send you the right stuff. However, for the beginner, the stock system supplied is perfect for getting started in RC electric helicopters.


Can a beginner fly the Honey Bee King? Yes it can. However, like any new endeavor, it's best to get as much information before starting. In the case of RC Helicopters, a simulator is considered a must in my opinion. I put about 20 hours into the simulator before trying to fly an RC helicopter.

Can you go beyond simply hovering? You certainly can! With an upgraded motor and possibly the addition of precision servos, the HBK will do most, if not all of the wild 3D moves many modelers like to perform.

So where does that leave us? The Honey Bee King from Hobby Lobby is a fine flying micro helicopter. Hobby Lobby is a leader in the RC electric field and they have what it takes to get you started and keep you going. They carry spare parts for the products they sell and with a helicopter, that's important. Helicopters, whether electric, gas or turbine, always need parts. It's not a matter of if you will crash, but when will it happen. It's encouraging to know that Hobby Lobby has the spare parts when you need them.

Last edited by AMCross; Dec 19, 2006 at 12:28 PM..
Thread Tools
Dec 04, 2006, 12:04 PM
Ship first, Improve often
L0stS0ul's Avatar
Very nice review from a beginner stand point. Lots of really good information. The King is a great helicopter and very much overlooked. Once you upgrade it there is very little it can't do. I'd agree that the RTF version they sell will get you off your feet and this is a very upgradable heli.

Before I get into upgrades I'd just like to reiterate when you say the stock motor gets hot. It gets VERY hot. I recommend using at least 2 of the e-sky heat sinks on the motor and use thermal paste to make sure they are bonding well. The motor is high quality but it gets very hot. There have been reports of melted canopies due to the heat of the motor and even the motor itself getting so hot that the solder joints have come loose. Just be careful with that motor and don't touch it.

you didn't post any videos so I'll post some of mine here so people can see how the heli flies. I'm not the best 3D pilot and I'm still very much learning. These videos are a bit of a progression of my skills as well.

Stock E-Sky King - Hovering
Brushless E-Sky King - Park Flying
Brushless E-Sky King - Park and 3D flight
Brushless E-Sky King - 3D Flight

There are also lots of upgrades for this helicopter. Here is a complete CNC head upgrade from E-Sky for it. I use a t-rex canopy on mine as it has much more room for components. The carbon fiber t-rex flybar paddles can be used on the stock flybar for the King. This improves cyclic response tremendously as they are much lighter. There is a landing gear upgrade kit specifically made for the king. Blade CP and CP2 fliers probably know the Super Landing Skids. And finally the Brushless motor of choice for the heli is the JustGoFly 400DH on an 8 or 9 tooth pinion.

great heli.
Last edited by L0stS0ul; Dec 04, 2006 at 12:14 PM.
Dec 04, 2006, 12:18 PM
Sponsored by Team Me
raynet11's Avatar
Very good review, the King has had it's share of ups and downs on the forums (early versions had bad tail vibrations) Esky has addressed all those issue in it's current form. I should also make note that Esky will be releasing a V2 of the king very soon. The King V2 has an updated cage frame, updated landing gear and will also use a belt drive for the tail rotor. Since it's well known that direct drive tail systems are not the best for newcomers some people may wish to wait for the V2 King to take advantage of the more forgiving belt setup.

Like LostSoul pointed out the full potential of this heli really comes out when a brushless power system and a heading hold gyro are installed. The nice thing about the king RTF package is that you get a heli that can be flown today and it still has room for growth when you are ready for more power.
Dec 05, 2006, 12:19 PM
Foam flies better
Fly Or Die's Avatar
When is the king II coming out? Isnt it the same as the belt cp?
Dec 05, 2006, 01:12 PM
Sponsored by Team Me
raynet11's Avatar
Originally Posted by Fly Or Die
When is the king II coming out? Isnt it the same as the belt cp?
No it's a king with an updated frame and a belt drive.. Esky had it on their website last week but they have since then taken it down, why , I'm not sure.
Dec 05, 2006, 02:47 PM
Foam flies better
Fly Or Die's Avatar
Does the charger the rtf comes with work for other batteries {the one I would use would be a 3cell 2000mah} or would it damage or destroy the batteries? The guy at hobby lobby told me it works only with the batteries of the king an honey bee mk3.
Dec 05, 2006, 02:51 PM
Ship first, Improve often
L0stS0ul's Avatar
a 3 cell 2000 mAh battery would be way to heavy for this heli. Max would be a 1500-1800 pack. Not to mention there is absolutly no room for it the way it is. Space is cramped on the king.
Dec 05, 2006, 03:44 PM
Foam flies better
Fly Or Die's Avatar
Nonono, its not for the king {its for a 3d plane!} I just wanted to know if it would work with the charger.
Dec 05, 2006, 05:23 PM
Sopwith Camel's Cousin
In the article: "Yet another way [to speed up the learning process] is to purchase one of the twin rotor blade training micro heliís or a non-CCPM model. The regular Honey Bee comes to mind. I don't recommend this direction, though. The issues I have with these heliís are their limitations. Being fairly simple helicopters, about all you can do is hover, pirouette, and fly forward and backward."

I agree, the twin (co-axial) blade training micro heliís are quite limited in what they can do.
But if one is a new pilot (also no fixed wing experience) and one is trying to fly in side a house (where a 10 foot by 10 foot open area is considered large),
one of those co-axial training micro heli's will already provide plenty of challenges.
Dec 05, 2006, 06:47 PM
Registered User
AMA Outlaw's Avatar
Yeah, the 2000 MAH batteries are heavy for this model, but it does fly well with them and a brushless motor. I have/do use them in the stock canopy with and without the super gear upgrade and they fit fine. They are not for 3D flight, but loops and such are fine with them. Plus, I figure if I'm going after duration flying I'm just sport flying and not flipping it around. The weight is noticed when really throwing it around.

I wonder if I'll be interested in the V2 version or if my Kings will just become Cools?
I like the King the way it is already.
Dec 05, 2006, 08:46 PM
Ship first, Improve often
L0stS0ul's Avatar
I would love to see a picture of how you managed to mount a 2000mAh pack in a King with the super landing skids. I have trouble getting my 1320 packs in there with the t-rex canopy. They were a no go even with the stock landing skids. I'm not challenging you. I would really love to see how you do it
Dec 06, 2006, 12:36 PM
Registered User
AMA Outlaw's Avatar


I used the TP 2100's on the stick landing gear setup and have put some generic 1500 and 2100 "long" packs on the version with super gear. The MegaPower 2100's that HeliDirect sells are my new favorite packs in the King (except for the higher weight) as they fly forever! I am sliding the MegaPower packs in from the nose under the battery/rcvr tray and into the hole in the front support of the super landing gear. My ESC is mounted on top of that tray and the rcvr is attached to the rear super gear support (on the front side of the support, the boom supports mount on the back side of the support) I think that I have my batt/rcvr tray installed differently than normal as the curve in the tray faces up to give me more room underneath the tray and keeps it higher than the carbon fiber rods the tray mounts to. I don't have a photo with me, but will try to get a pic up and posted in a day or so.
Dec 06, 2006, 01:13 PM
Ship first, Improve often
L0stS0ul's Avatar
I wonder if they have changed the design of the super gear. I have the megapower 1350 pack and the 2200 mah pack and both are way to fat to slide between the supports of the super landing skids on mine. My packs have to sit out infront on the battery tray and do not go under the frame because of this. My TP 1320's will fit but not the mega power packs. I've never tried to put a TP 2100 on my heli but if its the same width and height as a tp 1320 it should fit I guess.
Dec 06, 2006, 03:06 PM
Registered User
Rodders's Avatar
Really tempted to get one if these for my first heli, any thought?!?!
Dec 06, 2006, 05:08 PM
Foam flies better
Fly Or Die's Avatar
Ya, I was too, I was considering it for my first heli, but the guys on here told me that a better choice would be a esky cp2 or a honey be mk2 fp, even if I have sim experience. I still havent got it, so I guess we will both be starting out at the same time, but the kings power system is crap {note I am parroting what others have said}, and you would need to install a brushless sytem in it for good performance. The main reason I dont want it is that it cant really even be hovered in your house {5000 rpm is lound and dangerous inside} and repair costs. I really need something for those windy days, so maybe as a second heli. Right now I really like the cp2 although everyone tells me to get the fp {durable like no other}. The kings tail is known to strip at just touching the ground {cement} and tapping the tail is easy. These are all things told to me by the gurus on the heli section, you could start with the king, but most reccomended I dont {I guess they know, huh?}.

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