Enya 60X model 7101 - carb questions - RC Groups
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Jul 19, 2006, 12:21 AM
Registered User

Enya 60X model 7101 - carb questions

I bought this Enya 60X a few years back on an auction, but since I fly mostly electric these days, I decided to auction it off again. I want to make sure that the next owner can use it. Some pictures are attached. Hope that you Enya guys can help me out with these questions.

1. The engine seems pretty beat up on the outside. I opened and stripped it to clean and inspect the inside. It looks pretty good and still has all the compression I think it should have. The inside of the sleeve shines like a mirror with no visible wear. No parts seems discolored by heat. All the bushes are tight. The bearings spin freely without nicks. What else should I be looking at inside?
2. The back-plate (and front casing) had a thin gasket which was torn when I dismantled it. Some of my other engines do not have gaskets. Are these gaskets essential or was it the previous owner's choice?
3. I think this engine may have had carb issues. It looks like some of the pieces are not standard. Specifically the screw on the front side of the carb. Looks like it could be the idle adjust screw. See the detail in one of the pictures. Should this be a needle?
4. The throttle horn also seems non-standard. Any comments on that?
5. Last, the muffler has a swivel plate that exposes two holes if rotated. What is this for?

Will be happy to get some comments.
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Jul 19, 2006, 01:10 AM
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Throttle arm and front screw (air bleed) are stock. The back screw is the idle set screw. The muffler plate is for priming. This is a nice feature if one hand starts an engine. (Good engines DON’T need a starter to start). Opening up an engine is often not needed. But if you have opened up the engine you will want to make note of the corrosion (rust) on the bearings and crank pin. Also check the front crankshaft seal for galling. As to the cylinder note if the cross hatch (scratches in the inside of the cylinder that cross at 30° and 60° degrees) are still there at the very top of the cylinder all the way around.
You have one of the best sport motor ever made. The gasket is stock and now needs to be replaced. RTV is not a good gasket substitute (ask any original 1976 GM car owner).
The carb is a fix metering type with air bypass idle adjustment (screw).

Last edited by Konrad; Jul 19, 2006 at 10:34 PM.
Jul 19, 2006, 10:35 AM
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downunder's Avatar
See my answer over on RCU....wrong carby. These engines are probably the best kept secret in modelling

Wait, I didn't say that....how much for that hunk of scrap metal?
Jul 19, 2006, 12:34 PM
Registered User
Thanks downunder. Seems like some people feel about their Enyas the way I feel about my Irvines. ;-)

Konrad, thanks for the detailed info. To downunder's point, I wonder if these engines were sold with two different carbs over time? Or is this a modification that was made afterwards?

I asked the same questions over at RCU. Sorry for those who use both forums: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4518669/tm.htm
Jul 19, 2006, 08:01 PM
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I'll defer to down under for the definitive answer. But I think the 60x came with the fixed metered mid range carb you have and the 60CX came with the adjustable midrange "GM carb" with 8mm bore that downunder showed on the other sight.

P.S. Enyas really are just pot metal junk . Honestly they are some of the best engines. I liked my Irvine engines for my more performance aircraft but for trouble free sport flying I would give the edge to Enya. True there probably isn't a nickle difference between then as far a sport performance goes.
Last edited by Konrad; Jul 19, 2006 at 10:45 PM.
Jul 20, 2006, 02:52 AM
Airplane Gearhead
Gee Konrad...ya don't like silicone?! The hi temp dark redish brown stuff is good...just a miniscule amount smeared on w/ your finger...make sure there is no excess that can ooze inside.

Enya's are machined so well that they probably don't even need a gasket...the front housing on my 60X is in there so tight that I don't think it even has one? (doesn't look like it anyway)
BTW, mine has the more elaborate, mid-range adj. carb too...so that would make it a 60CX?

Edit: Mine has III on the left mt. lug too...what's that stand for, the 3rd iteration?
Perhaps an earlier version had an air bleed carb, and this one Buck has has been "retrofitted" with that carb? Seems I read somewhere that there were two different carbs on the 60X? Brian...if it wasn't you who wrote that, I don't know who did... ?
Last edited by proptop; Jul 20, 2006 at 03:03 AM.
Jul 20, 2006, 04:14 AM
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downunder's Avatar
Enyas are probably the most difficult engines to find definitive answers to because there's not much published about them. To the best of my knowledge there's no such thing as an Enya 60CX although there are smaller CX's. What's called a 60X is more properly a 60XF and I've found references to 60XF-II, III and IV although the IV reference could have been just for the 80X version. The only carbs I've seen on them have that midrange lever like on my 60 and 80 X's.

I just did a bit of detective work because a chart I have indicates that the 60-II weighs 17.1 ounces while the 60-III weighs 19 ounces. My 60X weighs 19 ounces with muffler so I'd have to assume it's a 60XF-III. But the chart gives the full title as 60XF-III GM10 and I'm fairly sure the GM10 refers to the carb fitted to it the same way there are 2 different versions of the earlier 60-IIIB/60-IIIB TVG-8.
Let me know of this is getting complicated
I can't imagine the GM10 carb could be 2 ounces heavier so maybe there's some other change to the engine itself compared to the XF-II.

Oops...here's another thing I just noticed. I was going to compare my engine to the one in the photo above to see if there might have been any difference in the crankcase or whatever and the first thing that caught my eye was the III stamped on the left mount lug...just the same as mine's got. OK, that one has to be an XF-III so I'll go back to saying it's got the wrong carb (and I'd almost convinced myself it must have been a 60-II ).

For interest's sake, there's also a rear exhaust version but I can't remember the model designation...something like 60XR.

Edit to add....by the time I'd written this and sent it off I saw that proptop did an edit too
Jul 20, 2006, 08:46 PM
Suspended Account
Silicone is a poor substitute for the real thing.
Gasket material is often used to keep the back plate off the wrist pin. In our aplication I often see that the very thin film left behind using silicone is often torn as the case flexes under power. The allows for the capillary action of oil to leak between surfaces that have a silicone only seal. Loctite of Ireland make a very good flange sealant that is not an RTV silicone. I also hate to see thick sealants used with delicate gasket material as the thin gasket is often torn by hydraulic force as the fastner being drawn home.

I stand corrected, there is no such thing as a 60CX and the carb that came on the 60x has a 10mm bore. As Bill said: "A rose by any other name would smell as sweat".

P.S. If you ever get a chance to be in a test cell with a stroboscopic flash, you would be suprised how much stuff moves while under the stress of operating.
Last edited by Konrad; Jul 27, 2006 at 10:02 PM.
Jul 22, 2006, 11:50 PM
Registered User
Now you got me going with all your talk of roses and happiness. I decided to give it a try before listing it on ebay. 'Cut two gaskets from notebook paper; screwed on a spare 11x6 and mounted it on a test plane. I used 5% fuel and when I finally got it stated after a few mins (fuel runs back the hose when taking finger of the carb), I was pretty surprised. The needle was out about 2.5 turns and it ran perfect. Closed it another quarter turn and it screamed. I guess that puts the ebay idea to a rest.

I have another question. What should the air bleed (front screw) be set to? I have the little hole (in front of the carb) about halfway opened. The idle and top-end runs great. The run-up to high rpm is not very smooth though. Any suggestions on tuning it a bit? Think I've joined the Enya club now...
Jul 22, 2006, 11:58 PM
Airplane Gearhead
Hey...sounds good! They are great engines...quality pieces...

If it gurgles and sputters thru transition, it's too rich...and you need to open the air bleed some.
If it bogs and or sags thru transition, then you need to richen it...

An 11 X 6 is a little light...an 11 X7 or 11 X 7.5 or 12 X 6 would utilize the available power more effectively...
Jul 23, 2006, 09:33 AM
Registered User
downunder's Avatar
Give it a try tuning it without muffler pressure. That's a smaller carb than the original (I'm guessing it's got an 8mm bore) so it'll have a lot more suction than the larger carb. This won't affect the idle mix because there's virtually no pressure at idle anyway but the main needle will need to be opened maybe another turn. Running without muffler pressure should help lean out the midrange which seems to be too rich right now.

Alternatively, you could keep muffler pressure but undo the locking nut for the main needle and wind it further out so it doesn't block off quite as much of the carb barrel. Effectively that gives a larger carb.

BTW, in case you hadn't noticed when you stripped it down, these are an AAC set up and in other threads about them no one has reported any pinch even with new engines.
Jul 27, 2006, 10:35 PM
Suspended Account
If downunder is correct and I’m sure he is when he says that the Enya 60x did not come with an air bleed carburetor. The air bleed carburetor will never give a very linear throttle response. Higher performance engines not only get their power from using a bigger carburetor but also have more advanced crankshaft timing. In a low performance engine an early closing crankshaft (case inlet) is use to move the peak power band lower in the RPM band (more low end torque). This lower speed means that a smaller carburetor can be used. It also means that there will be less of a reversionary pulse through the carb at low engine speeds.

So what does this mean?

Well a performance engine will not run very well on an air bleed carburetor. This is because as you open the throttle from idle the air actually moves past the fuel jet (spray bar) twice. Once as the engine sucks in the air by the up going piston and (if the crankshaft is a late closing design) as the air is pushed back out the carburetor as the piston is coming down. This out going pulse is known as a reversionary pulse and is more pronounced as the designer chooses to close the crankshaft later for more power at higher RPM.
An air bleed carb cannot deal with this as well as an auto mixture type carburetor. An auto mixture carburetor can be “jetted” to lean out the mid-range nullifying much of the dual metering that happens with the reversionary pulse.

While the Enya 60X is not a race engine it is not a dog either. It needs an auto adjust carb to give good throttle response.

Jul 28, 2006, 11:24 AM
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downunder's Avatar
The 60X inlet port opens at 34 ABDC and closes at 52 ATDC which is a little later than most of my other engines but not by all that much. Strangely enough the 80X has a timing of 43/55 and yet it has the same stroke as the 60X so I would have assumed it used the same crankshaft but obviously it doesn't. The old baffled piston Enya 40 and 45's close at 50 degrees and the 6001 model 45 was (is ) a magnificent CL stunt engine.

I must admit that with the 20 engines that I've got figures for so far I can't find any rhyme or reason with their crank timings. For instance, an ST G51 is virtually identical to a Fox 35!
Nov 28, 2009, 08:26 PM
Registered User
Would you sell the enya 60 mine has a bent crank.
Nov 28, 2009, 08:35 PM
Registered User
I TOBOR's Avatar
Buck, the best procedure is to set the airbleed screw halfway across the hole and then do what DU said.

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